Roto Zip Tips
So, I don't hang a lot of board at all. But I got a roto zip because I have a bunch of recessed lights to do. So, I am not good at running this thing. I believe I have it setup correctly. Hanging 1/2" blue board. I have the bit set at 5/8" and I'm using a guidepoint bit. The bit is still digging into the rim of the can though at times. It also seems to be overheating, which I'm sure means I'm going to slow, or pushing to hard. I'm assuming if the bit digs into the can rim that it is set to deep, but I'm afraid if I set it any less it won't find the lights at all. I am running the thing counterclockwise. Any tips or hints for what I am doing wrong? Thanks, Nick.
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Nick - I am by no means a pro at hanging gyp, but we recently did remodel with 44 can lights. We found the most success with letting the tip run through the gyp about a 3/8- 1/2". Just enough that it can run the lip of the light, and have more surface area on the metal lip.
Hope this helps.
Brennan
Hope this helps.
Brennan
Run it deeper than that. You're NOT aiming to hit that single 16-guage lip, but you're trying to run around the full ring, which is usually a little conical, and which the tip will run along just fine. Just keep it moving.
sounds like you're too deep. Also, the bit will get hot if you're pushing it against the can - it should ride there just from the bit rotation, you just keep pushing it forward.
Last cans I did I just used a hole saw, then hung the board, which is faster if you don't goof.:whistling
Last cans I did I just used a hole saw, then hung the board, which is faster if you don't goof.:whistling
I did use my hole saw today for a few. It is quicker and cleaner. I will try going deeper. Makes sense. Thanks. Happy turkey day guys
Hold it at an angle a little bit so only the guide tip can touch. Maybe get up closer so you can freely work your arm(s) while bent. Better leverage.
the way I do it is.....I don't use a guard at all...(lost it a long time ago)...plunge into the middle of the cut out....cut straight towards the stud side of the box...( can lights it doesn't much matter) . . feel the edge .. jump to the outside of the box....cut going counter clockwise...the bit turns so it pulls towards the box that way. a little practice and you'll get the feel for it
I use half of a basketball with an arbor cutout for a hole saw for remodel cans. You should see the looks I get :blink:
Invest in the vac dust port attachment. I hook it up to my festool midi and eliminate all the fine dust all over the house and in my eyes. I start my hole in the middle of the light, ride over to an edge, pull it out and slide over a hair, then ride the lip. As others have said i set it a little deeper then you have it, if I have to pull it back a little I will. I haven't found any other way that produces a cleaner cut out, and certainly nothing as fast.
You guys who use hole saws, how do you get them lined up perfect with the cans? Or do you just make the holes a little big or fidget the cans around a little after drilling? I usually use the "start the rotozip in the waste so you can find your edge without screwing anything up" method like gbruzze and ronnie said.
If youre using a guard, toss it. I keep my bit quite far out of the rotozip...If youre digging in you are probably just pushing way too hard on the can, just try and let the bit do the work, it will pull in the correct direction. Youll want to push it more forward than in towards whatever object you are outlining if that makes sense...wont hurt to go slow.
I don't think the guards are necessary.
Set the bit, and forget it.
Mark approximate center of the can, go until you feel resistance, pull back a little and it should slip over the edge.
From there, cut in a counter-clockwise (or is it clockwise?) direction following the edge.
Bing bam boom it's out.
It's an applied science mixed with some feels.
I'm not great at it, but I don't let that stop me from trying. It's only a sheet of drywall.
Set the bit, and forget it.
Mark approximate center of the can, go until you feel resistance, pull back a little and it should slip over the edge.
From there, cut in a counter-clockwise (or is it clockwise?) direction following the edge.
Bing bam boom it's out.
It's an applied science mixed with some feels.
I'm not great at it, but I don't let that stop me from trying. It's only a sheet of drywall.
Good idea.
Usually measure and mark. I don't make the holes oversize, but cans do have some wiggle. It helps if you have multiple cans to have them in a consistent grid to begin with.
Brand new blades are very sharp. :gunsmilie: As you have found out.
Like others said.........lose depth plate. Push in center,move to edge,hop over and follow outside edge counter clockwise. When routing the inside of something you need to go clockwise.
Every first time router user I know destroyed a few boxes and gave the finishers grief. It takes time to learn the ''feel''.
Like others said.........lose depth plate. Push in center,move to edge,hop over and follow outside edge counter clockwise. When routing the inside of something you need to go clockwise.
Every first time router user I know destroyed a few boxes and gave the finishers grief. It takes time to learn the ''feel''.
Counter clockwise on outside cuts ie; cans, outlets boxes. Clockwise on the inside ie; doors and windows.
JR Shepstone said:
Hole saws are fine if you don't have customers who will get on a ladder and measure and sight to see if everything's exactly in place. There's a market out there for someone to make a self-centering hole saw: some spidery piece on the end of the arbor slips through the waste cutout, pops out into the can and self-centers the bit, and you drill away. It's for DIYers, because it's not that hard to use a roto-zip.
I don't get this - I can locate holes in drywall more accurately than the sparkies usually locate the cans. You'd have to be some sloppy with a hole saw to get as bad a can location as sparky / rotozip will get you.
Can't get better advise than above.
One more little tip: If your new to this, run the new bit on the side of a 2x4 just to kill the sharpness. Make sure the screws/Nails are not to tight near the can or the last bit of the cut will blow out.
One more little tip: If your new to this, run the new bit on the side of a 2x4 just to kill the sharpness. Make sure the screws/Nails are not to tight near the can or the last bit of the cut will blow out.
That's true, if the cans are crooked to start with, you are better off making your holes straight and pulling the cans into the holes.
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