[Jason]

What is your teams process on applying drip edges, felt/tar paper, ice guard, and/or shingles? I'm in the Iowa area and keep reading different approaches to what is the best method. I've also seen/read that this process changes if gutters are involved.

I've contacted owens corning regarding this issue, what would like to hear other persons suggestions.


Another question I have regarding drip edges, I've noticed that drip edges take the "edge" of the "roof" another 3/8', which is usually a suggested distance that the shingles are suppose to hangover. Now, do you take your shingles another 3/8' past that drip edge, or do you take the shingles directly to the drip edge.

When I was speaking with a roofing inspector in my area he said it should go past the drip edge. For me, that does not make sense. If its suppose to go 3/8' passed the roof planks, then it should go along the drip edge.

Any suggestions or comments?

Thanks a bunch.

 

[Grumpy]

You asked alot of questions about alot of products.

I install drip edges at gables when I have to install plywood OVER the existing decking. This hides the plywood and prevents wind driven rain and wood decay. Normally I don't install drip edge at the gables only because it's not really necessary in my area. I install drip edge at gutter drip overhangs if there ar eno gutters. If there are gutters there should most definetly be a gutter flashing. Gutter flahsing and drip edge are not the same. The inspector was right. When installing drip edge at drip overhangs I do install the shingles about 3/8 to 1/2 past the edge of the drip edge.

I install Ice shield at all gutter lines/drip overhangs to pass the warm wall (exterior wall) at least 1.5'. I also install at least 3; ice shield in the gutter lines and valleys. I install 18" around problem areas like skylights, chimneys, and where a roof may meet a wall like a dormer. I don't install ice shield at gables because it's not needed in my area.

I install 30# felt to cover the entire wood substrate before installing my shingles.

 

[Jason]

I follow similar practices. One thing I read recently is that when installing ice guard, they recommend putting ice guard done on the plywood, then installing drip edges ontop of the ice guard, then starters, shingles...

When there are no gutters, I've read that you are suppose to install the drip edge on the plywood, then the ice guard, then starters, shingles...

Have you heard of this practices?

I usually go a bit overboard with ice guard because our midwester winters are pretty harsh. But, I was a bit discouraged about information from different manufactuers about where to install ice guard in relationship to drip edges and gutters. (basically the order).

Thanks for the info.

 

[Grumpy]

www.graceathome.com there are great installation instructions and videos.

 

[AaronB.]

I like to roof it as if there are gutter, or will be gutters, when installing the ice barriers. If there is a gutter, I like to remove fasteners and run the ice barrier behind the gutter onto the fascia, then re attach the gutter and install the gutter apron. If there is no gutter, I like to run the ice barrier onto the fascia, and install a metal flashing to cover. This method has never failed me.

When we install ODE, we hang past the drip edge, because we have seen wind driven rain inflitrate, or active flow infiltrate on top of the ODE flange via capillary action.

 

[Jason]

So do you install under drip edges or just passed them?

"we hang past the drip edge"

I read at Certainteeds website that they recommend on top of the drip edge with no gutters and under the drip edge when gutters are present. (but they said it almost in a passive tense like they weren't really sure)

 

[bergenbldr]

Best way to deal with gutters and ice sheild is to make flashing that wraps onto roof and behind gutters,ice shield is then sealed to top of flashing.I would realy only use this with fascia that are not getting trim coil capping. For capped fascias we tack ice shield to subfascia and install trim coil caps over it.

 

[AaronB.]

Jason...re-read.

We hang past the drip edge with our shingles on RAKE ends only. I do not install ODE on eaves (gutter edges).

 

[Jason]

Appreciate the info. Thanks for clarification.

 

[jmorgan]

Grace recommends that the IW&S br installed under the drip edge.....this is to seal the facia board cracks. www.graceconstruction.com
Jim

 

[Jason]

I know for most this topic is becoming overkill; here is some information I dug up.


From Grace Website:

Do not fold Grace underlayments over the roof edge unless the edge is protected by a drip edge, gutter or other flashing material.

 

[AaronB.]

How very correct...that is why I do it the way I do.

 

[Doofus Emeritus]

The drip edge goes on top of the underlayment, and a bead of mastic should be placed on the metal where it meets the underlayment before the starter course goes on.

IF, you are not using any type of drip edge, AND there is no exposed plywood edges, then the underlayment should be laid (or cut) flush with the edge of the fascia of varge rafter (thats barge in most areas) and the starter or bleeder should go past that 1 inch regardless if metal is used or not.

I know a painting contractor for whom I do the simple task of running my paper 1 full inch past the leading edge and then run all my starter and gable bleeder to the edge of the paper. Then, after I'm done, he paints the house and uses the paper as as border. Once the paint is reasonably dry, he carefully cuts the paper and there's no friggen paint on the shingles.

Wh lah.

Best regards,

DE