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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
NEW QUESTION: Attaching a gable roof to side of house through brick veneer? See Post # 14, below)

I'm trying to move up from non-structural remodeling & general / trim carpentry to doing additions, etc. First project looks to be a screen-porch addition for an acquaintance. (Meeting to bid project next week).

While I have built decks & sheds, etc., thus far I've only stick-framed non-structural partition walls in homes (i.e. remodeling basements, building closets, etc.). I'm confident in my ability to do the walls, & basic roofing (i.e. from my free-standing shed projects) but I've never built a timber-truss roof for an addition. FWIW I'll be designing the addition myself & running it past an architect friend before I submit the plans.

Is building the roof something I should sub out, or go ahead & tackle myself?

If I tackle it myself, how / where do I get a good crane operator?

Based upon my initial conversation with the HO & their desire for a cathedral ceiling, the best design for the roof will probably be timber trusses. Needless to say, I'd have to rent the equipment to raise the trusses & my crew is even less experienced at this than I am.

So, if you were in my shoes - would you go ahead & tackle the roofing - or sub it out to a more experienced crew?

TIA
 

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Sure, I can do that...
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Have a look at the Timber Framer Guild site. tfguild.org
They have a Business Council membership list where you can find a supplier who would likely come and do the install for you.
 

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Subbing the work out might not be a bad plan--It'll give you an idea of how to do it and also build a relationship with a framer.


Sometimes removing the unknown factors from a job will yield a known profit.(Or at least keep you from blowing the bid)
 

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Thanks FRAMER53--I find that some jobs I just don't do efficiently--Paint ,drywall and hardwood floors--to name a few. Can I do them--Yes--however I make more money subbing that work out whenever possible--and moving on to something I am more efficient at.

-----MIKE-----( My full time guy is a drywaller--I still sub that out when I can)
 

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I propose the best of both worlds. Sounds like the poster is comfortable doing the design portion. Why not find a framer to handle the assembly portion. Sounds like that roof would be a piece of cake for a decent framer. Me perhaps? Probably still a couple hundred miles between us.
 

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See if you can hire somebody with this experience and work with him to get the knowledge he has. Hiring somebody with skills you wish to acquire
is no different than going to school. Make sure they know what they are doing, refences, pictures ect. If you end up hiring another company to do it, be on site constantly taking notes and pictures. A digital camera is your best friend and in the truck ALWAYS. You never know when you may see something being built that you could learn from and be able to reflect back on that picture. Also get "The Roof Framers Bible", best investment for the business you are in. I have been in remodeling for 18 years and enjoy every minute of it. I have gotten room additions down to where I don't need to expose the rest of the house until addition is almost fully drywalled. Keeps homeowners free of the debris. Good luck
 

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What part of Ky are you in? I think if you are up to the wall framing you could more than likely handle the roof. But these fellow have given you some sound advice as to hiring a good framer.

If you are looking for a crane rental I know a guy that works out of lexington at the sunbelt rental center...He can get you a gradall if you feel up to usign it yourself.
 

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You'll never know if you can do it till you try it. Do you want to make money by subbing it, or learn that you can do it your self even though you aren't as efficient as a framer may be? I think i would frame it, although it's all in what you are comfortable with. ~burns
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
Project just got interesting...

New question:

I need advice on the best methods to attach the gable roof to the side of a house through a brick veneer.

Backgound: The house is a 1950's era build, & the HO's decided they want their new screen porch to extend from the gable end of the house. (Initially, I thought it would be a simple job with the porch extending perpendicular from the long side of the house & I'd do a California roof at a right angle from the existing slope... but not to be). The porch is going to be considerably narrower than the rest of the house - so I can't simply tie into and extend the existing roof (See attached rough sketch - blue is the new work*). Thus, the gable for the screen porch needs to attach to the side of the house, which has a brick veneer.

I've done some research, but am not finding satisfactory answers. I know I cannot simply attach a ledger/header to the outside of the veneer, or even through the veneer to the studs, but am concerned whether it is acceptable to cut through the veneer & bolt or lag screw the ledger/header to the studs? Will the veneer above / below the cuts lose integrity if I do cut through it? (i.e. do I need to do anything special to stabilize the veneer before /after it's been cut?).

I've got a call out to the local inspections / permit office, but they're notoriously slow to respond.

Anyway, I figure someone here has run across this before & I'd like your input before I sit down with the architecht ( or P.E., if it turns out I need one...). Even if I decide to sub the roof out, I'll still need to know what the correct method is to be able to adequately explain the scope of work (& bid my project).

All suggestions appreciated.

TIA

*No snarky comments about my sketch please... I whipped this out merely to illustrate the question...;)
 

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Why wouldn't the walls be able to support the rafters and ridge beam? A concern to address would be how to make the connection/seam watertight. A connection to the existing structure should be made if you have proper footings and stem walls in place (this is from a Colorado perspective, I know other areas do foundations different)...but if your existing structure is on stem walls, and your porch is on slab, and the slab starts moving then you have two sections of an attached structure moving in different directions.

I have a similar project going, I will try and post some photos tonight (we are booming the beams on Monday)
 

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I have done about a dozen additions like this. You can lag the ledger in through the veneer into the studs (for lateral loads) and use masonry anchors for vertical loads. I would use pressure treated ledgers in case of any future moisture issues. Caulk the ledger to the masonry and seal the sub roof to the ledger and use step flashing. This will keep it water tight for a long long time. If you use a ridge beam you should make sure that is it well supported with a post and headers. You can also conceal the ridge beam by hanging the rafters off of it and using Simpson Strong Tie Straps (ie STRA-18's) over the tops of the rafters and beam. I have also cut the veneer off at the new roof line (diamond blade on the skill saw) and supported it with a double ledger/rafter. The big issue os the size of the opening between the addition and the house and what they want on the house wall inside the addition (ie original veneer or drywall etc). Send me an email if you have more specific questions. This is a job that can be done without a crane of you are not timber-framing it but using classic rafters and a built up ridge beam.
 
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