Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
818 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not pro painter, but I still seem to do a lot of it. I can't justify a sprayer so I roll.

My question is, how do you guys avoid the lines that the edge of the roller leaves sometimes, that are a pain to blend back in. I usually tip the roller so only the end is touching, to "squeeze" that extra paint out before continuing, but it's still a pain. The finished product always looks good, but I feel like I'm wasting a lot of time dealing with those lines.
 

·
Talking Head
Joined
·
5,388 Posts
I roll sections using the "W" technique, about 3-4'x4' to apply the paint. So that would be two sections on an 8' wall or 3 for a 10-12' wall. I then apply a bit more paint to the roller and roll the excess off the ends of the cover and roll the whole wall section, top to bottom, in slightly overlapping passes. This ensures a very even coat with the nap of the paint all pointing in the same direction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
305 Posts
Don't use cheap paint. I use SW SuperPaint.

Don't use a cheap roller cover. I use a 1/2 inch Purdy Collosus

Don't ever put much pressure on the roller (in the pan or on the wall).

I like to put the paint on the wall in long vertical stripes. After I lay down a stripe, most of the paint is out of the roller. Before loading up with more paint, I go back to the previous stripe or two and smooth it out lightly. So I'm working 2 or 3 stripes at a time.

Be aware of how much paint is on the roller and how much you need. You can feel the weight of the paint in the roller. Plan your work. Don't try to put a full roller of paint into a little corner. Don't starve the roller either. Too much or too little paint can cause lines.
 

·
Joe The Handyman
Joined
·
68 Posts
I second what instock says

Quality paint & roller cover
light even pressure-always use a pole on the roller handle
always 2 coats

long vertical stripes- once you move on, let it dry and it will level out
don't go back after what looks like a void or you will make it worse
 

·
Registered
Remodel
Joined
·
31,102 Posts
Use less pressure, make sure you keep it even side to side, and taper your roller cover edges to match how you do it. Usually I just roll up and down. Roping, especially on porous surfaces, kills productivity - you need to get so you don't have any roping at all.

Use a heavy, stiff frame, and a stiff extension - any play and you lose some control. I had this drive me nuts for a couple days, until I figured out my extension had some play.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,494 Posts
Roller used with frame facing the right and roll to the right. Roll a 4' section or so and then back roll from top to bottom over that section to feather everything in. If its eggshell over flat it still needs 2 coats to get rid of the lines. Been doing it this way for 15 years, always gives perfect finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,185 Posts
If mere roller trails are of big concern to you...wait...you'll have more to challenge you. Tip of the iceberg :thumbup:
 

·
One Man Gang
Joined
·
7 Posts
I use I think it is 1 1/2 inch lambskin or wool roller naps, leave no lines, and takes much less dipping. Also, don't use those junk roller pans, use a 5 gallon bucket and paint screen. People think that the 1" or bigger naps leaves a texture, but wool does not. Don't push the corners either.

-Peace!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
488 Posts
Try a micro fiber cover and as stated always keep the frame pointed to the right. Idaho painters has some excellent videos on you tube for technique some for rolling some for spraying.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top