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Rolair JC10 not cutting out

2.3K views 10 replies 8 participants last post by  AustinDB  
#1 ·
Hi folks-- I'm a remodeler in western MA. Have been in business for myself since 2018, though not a spring chicken. So the business side of things is relatively new to me, and I've benefited greatly from reading about a million threads on CT. That said, this question has nothing to with business per se.

First I should state that I've done some simple tool repair stuff but am not a hardcore mechanic type.

I have a Rolair JC10, at least 10 years old. I really like it but sometime around Covid it got glitchy and I sent it out via my local yard to get fixed by whatever service center the yard used at the time. It came back many moons later, untouched/unfixed, for no good reason except maybe it's Covid and we give up? In the meantime I picked up a Hitachi-tabo pancake which lives and works in my enclosed trailer. I'm trying to revive the JC10 because I like it for close quarters use in occupied houses, and it's helpful to have a backup in case I'm spread across two jobs needing air.

Anyway, here's the situation:
Initial problem was that it would turn on, fill . . . keep filling . . . not cut out, and then dump pressure somewhere in the "red zone" on the tank gauge. The internet said the fix for this is a new pressure switch. So I ordered a new pressure switch and replaced it today. After replacing the switch, it does the exact same thing (i.e., filling & not cutting out).

I tried drinking a beer and staring at it, thought I'd see if anyone has a better idea of potential next step.
 
#2 ·
I have a rigid twin tank that will do the same thing in cold weather. It clears up when it warns up outside. I think it freezes up inside .

I'll run it and manually turn it off before the pressure relief pops, takes a few cycles. Then I make sure I get all the water out for a few uses.
 
#6 ·
This is from another forum...

I own a JC10 and had what I believe is the same problem. The issue for me was a bit of debris keeping a check valve partially open. This caused the tank not to fill and the motor ran longer than it should. The motor is not rated for continuous duty and left a smell like you mention. I contacted rolair service and they instructed me to so the following:

1. unplug the compressor
2. drain all the air out of the compressor
3. carefully unscrew the check valve cover. Be careful there is a small spring inside.
4. clean out any small debris in the valve
5. reassemble the check valve making sure the spring is in place

After I completed those steps the compressor worked as before. It's nice and quiet as before.

Hope that helps.

I circled the check valve in a photo of my compressor. It's not incredibly obvious where it is.

compressor check valve circled.jpg
 
#9 ·
Thanks for all the feedback guys.

The temperature thing could be a player, this compressor has been sitting in the shed and I only brought it inside about 1/2 hour before I replaced the pressure switch.

Otherwise I guess it's tracking down the weak link between check valve, regulator, blowoff valve. Anything that's vulnerable to particles of crud could be suspect. I think the check valve is the one next to the head that hisses when you first turn on power, then closes as pressure builds? That sounds like it's working correctly. I'm not hearing anything unusual as the tank fills, but maybe a small leak might not make enough noise to be noticeable. Might have to pick this up again after morning coffee.

I mostly use air for interior trim. I do smaller jobs, i.e. a couple/few windows at a time. I own framing, siding, roofing nailers but rarely use them. If I do, it's like pop . . . pop . . . pop . . . as opposed to poppitypoppitypop. I stick with smaller compressors partly because I'm often working on older houses with who knows what sharing the circuit with the only available receptacle. The JC10 generally gets used inside and I'm running 25/50 feet of hose to one nailer, or two on a splitter. But since I'm solo, only one nailer is ever active at a given moment.

Bud Light is not the problem, I'm in a "session IPA" mode here.
 
#10 ·
I tried filling/draining multiple times this morning to see if the warmup thing would do the trick. No change.

Decided to go for the check valve first. Removed it and it seemed OK: no crud fell out, spring seemed to work fine. I would note that it came out in one piece, i.e. as far as I could tell there was no cap to open to remove the spring. When reinstalling, I managed to break it, leaving a chunk of thread down inside the elbow fitting that it screws into.

So after unnecessarily replacing the pressure switch, I've now broken a working check valve. Ouch.

I think have to stay in it to win it though, after posting about my troubles and getting some good advice. I'll need to go parts shopping before I can get back to it myself. Or might call a repair shop I've used in the past-- they're about 40min away in a direction I usually don't go in, and I don't know if they handle this kind of stuff any more.

Thanks for all the suggestions, let's see if I can get out of my own way with this project.
 
#11 ·
re: your comment
"it's like pop . . . pop . . . pop . . . as opposed to poppitypoppitypop"

I was having problems sinking siding nails and recharge rate with my JC10. ended up removing the female quick connect and connected the hose directly to the compressor. fixed the issue I was having and I never have to wonder where my 1/4" hose is (y)