I've ripped down PT before, and immediately bolted it in place, and didn't have any issues at all.

Your biggest issue with ripping down a 4x6, for example, will be the fact that the treatment doesn't penetrate more than about 1/2" to 3/4".

So if it needs to be treated wood, you'll have to apply a surface treatment on the cut edges, which is never quite as good as factory treatment.

 

Agreed; fasten it immediately (if it hasn't already warped from the cut) and it should be stable. For a bit more insurance, do whatever you have to to keep it from drying quickly--that's the main culprit.

Treating the cut surfaces probably isn't all that critical if they're protected from the elements. Main advantage would be bugproofing.

 

And don't use a SawStop :thumbsup:

 

Forgive me here but I thought pressure treated lumber did not come about till the 40's.
Creosote was the treatment of choice before that, and that's what I recall as a young one in Europe.

 

i don`t know the answer that.
this is a 1925 train
the whole outside is 1x6 t&g( actually( 3/4 x 5 inches ) , which looks like pine
the flooring inside has a sub-floor , and has 1x4 t&g on top of that also
on the floor and partitions are what looks like p.t.
maybe its actually not p.t. ( definitely not creosote)
maybe its not treated at all!
looks like it is .


i`d probably have less problems with untreated , but this is going to be a running train , with passengers at a museum
we want to keep as original as possible. but we also don`t want to be ridiculous
ifi can use ripped p.t. as opposed to ordering exact sizes that take more than a month to get , we`ll do it.

i could always use pine , or cypress ( or other wood)and treat it myself with some type of preservative.

just trying to get info from some older or more experienced suckers.

 

google agrees with you , just looked it up

 

I am not a lover of PT it always shrinks and warps, don't get me wrong it has its place but I feel people use it when its not needed.

Pressure treated wood is done in a giant iron lung and that was not around until 1929, think Autoclave.

I would never use PT wood as a subfloor, now I know we have PT plywood that's not a stick product and that's the type of P I refer.

I think what you have is some real close grain old growth wood, that may have had some kind of coating.

 

don`t know what you mean by " old-growth"
( i was told by a manufacturer , that there is actually a pressure treated oak.)

i know what you mean though
pressure treated isn`t always great ,
it holds moisture longer , and sometimes rots the items around it.

i am , hugging it right against old thick angle-iron . i think its the best item to use . yes i can use different wood ( cedar/cypress/fir.. etc)and coat it with preservative myself ,
but the p.t. is the most practical as far as cost
it won`t be exposed to any elements, will be covered with roof-paper , then cypress t&g on both sides , and will be kept in a covered train depot.
seems like the best option

 

If you've got the budget & source, buy the cypress instead of the PT. Another good option, if you've got the budget & access, white oak. Both are rot resistant. & would have been more likely to have been used originally instead of PT pine.

 

I have done it before but I had the PT wood stickered in my shop for 2 months down to 16% MC. Took a long time but it worked perfectly for my use. My customer did not mind the wait.

 

Is there Kiln Dried After Treatment (KDAT) wood available in your area. I am not sure what sizes are readily available , it could solve some of your issues.

Can you live with the gaps that will develop ,using wet pressure treated Lumber, after it dries out ?

 

The problem with ripping PT is it relieves tension causing all sorts of issues if it's not place immediately as others have mentioned.


Mike.
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[emoji631] [emoji631]

 

Did you already buy the PT?

I love buying expensive stuff then second guessing myself. If you already bought it, we'll help you work with it. If you haven't purchased yet, I'd probably look for another solution.
Having PT as a subfloor sounds like a nightmare for the future of your floor.

Like others have said, I've never had an issue with shaping or resizing PT so long as it's fastened immediately, and well. I've repaired a lot of deck railings where guys used nails or otherwise poor fastening techniques and the PT curled up and yanked all the nails out with it.

 

Yep lots of old windows made out of that old grown fir, with little to no rot dispite water intrusion. It was heavy, hard and dense compared to what you see in a stud. I just bought a some CVG fir 1x10s that were $10 a foot. But the section of tree used for the 1x10 was at least 300 years old. And I don't know how much more log there was!

 

https://armsterreclaimedwood.com/

Try this place. They have a few acres of old timbers from old Mills and barns.

They will dimension anything you want, and probably get a species that's period correct. Probably the wood itself would be period.

 

Is this the siding? Can you make "hollow" panels with 1x pressure treated for the inside and outside faces with horizontal pressure treated pieces to space the assembly to the dimension of the prior material?

 

What about treated SYP?