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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have about 10 original, steel frame windows I need to replace in a brick face of a house. I have never done this before.

I like the sound of cutting away the perimeter of the original steel frame to use as a stop for the new replacement windows, however I am unsure how to finish up the external appearance of the original frame. The finish on the original metal frame was a 3/4" bead of a rotted, calk-like material (from 1938, lol).

The perimeter's edges of the original frame are sure to be far from perfect because I will need to use a reciprocating saw to cut out the rest of the old window frame. What would be the fastest, clean method to finish the external appearance (avoiding the use of a brake if possible)?

It's really tough to find any good information on this procedure from beginning to end on the internet. Thanks for any help in advance!
 

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Yeah,my trade is ALL.I can do everything and know how to do it.That's why I'm on a internet forum asking stupid questions on my first post acting like I'm a pro.
Sorry but does anyone else around here see an influx of posts like this lately?
Trade"ALL"? Can you make me a custom crack pipe out of stone?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah,my trade is ALL.I can do everything and know how to do it.That's why I'm on a internet forum asking stupid questions on my first post acting like I'm a pro.
Sorry but does anyone else around here see an influx of posts like this lately?
Trade"ALL"? Can you make me a custom crack pipe out of stone?
I set up an account on this forum looking for useful information on something I'm clearly inexperienced at. Rather than resurrecting an old thread from 2010 I decided to start a new topic in search of input.

I am a senior member on several technical forums, and I assure you that if your ignorant, wise ass signed up and asked a question I would not blast you; I would help. I'm truly sorry you felt I was "acting like a pro" in your special place where you feel like a king of your own little castle, but this is a forum and i came here for constructive information... not to deal with your psychological e-peen issues.

I think my question was well structured and to the point. I also followed proper forum etiquette by not resurrecting an old thread from 2010 (also full of low-post-count people "acting like pros").

Now if it is okay with you and the rest of the members on this forum I would just like some suggestions on my original topic. Who knows, maybe I will respond to one of your threads with a useful answer to one of your questions one day.

P.S. I changed my specialty from ALL to "General" Just for you! I had a meeting and I was in a rush when I created my profile and could not think of the proper word at the time.
 

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How about an "introduction", then.

You might get a better response.

You might also get a better response if you participate in a few threads that you can contribute to, before "popping off" after responses to your first thread.

In other words, show us your in the trades, in some way and the tenor will change.
 

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I did not mean to offend you.Your question and explanation is somewhat confusing.
And being your first post without any introduction.And your trade being "ALL.
What do you expect?
 

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I think I have done it a few ways.

Cut out the window and build flush to the frame with 5/4 to creat a jamb to trim to inside then insert a new construction window from the outside.

I have also pre wrapped the window openings with aluminum that jumps the frame and creates a stop to install a cheap insert into.

And of course tear it all out and treat it like a new opening. If you weigh the pros and cons of each method I favor this way best.

You can cut the thru the head and the sill with a sawzall and then collapse the frame inward. Its not as bad as it seems. The plaster openings are more of a hassle. You will gain at least an inch to your width and hieght of the window. Even with rough opening and insulating space. Check before you take my word though.
 

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I've done lots of steel window replacements as my neighborhood is full of them.

I always prefer to rip them out completely if possible although I've left the frames on certain budget jobs.

If you do opt for frame removal and don't have access to a brake, you can use masonry clips to mount your install. Order them tight and you can get away with just a caulk joint around the exterior perimeter.

Or, like Tom said, plenty of options for snap in trim if you buck it out or leave the frames.
 

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If your going to frame jump, I try and use windows with built in flanges if possible. then the flange sits on top of the old frame. Caulk and seal. Then the inside is either trim or RWD.

We do typically cut and rip the frames out though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Thank you everyone for your responses, I truly do appreciate the feedback as this is my first steel frame window replacement (they are very uncommon in my area).

I thought I would upload some photos so that you can better visualize the job. I am thinking about leaving the frames and using snap in trim at this point.

What do you think?



http://i.imgur.com/ah72YXL.jpg/IMG]
[IMG]http://i.imgur.com/tsHsMcA.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
That looks like a great, fast product. I actually called them up to speak to them about it. They released a video on YouTube yesterday if anyone is bored.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaMvqIML-R0&feature=em-upload_owner#action=sharehttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JaMvqIML-R0&feature=em-upload_owner#action=share

So, It looks like I will pull the old frames out and use masonry clips to mount the replacement windows. Once mounted ill use some of the RWD trim product to keep things simple.

What do you think?
 

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Its a good product. I don't know your climate, but I would still not recommend using it on the exterior unless you just have too.

If you do use it on the exterior. Get their wipes and roller because the adhesion in the heat, with pvc expanding and contracting is killer.
 

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you could go with a new construction unit with an attached brickmould
measure the r.o. take off say 1/4'' all around and use that as the ''brick to brick'' measurement to calculate your window size

install the unit,caulk between the brick and window
 
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