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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Yeah, we'll we had to do one on the quick-time yesterday on an '02 Sierra 4x4.

Google says there are 3 approaches:

1. 8 hours labor: drop the tank - if it's full - well whaddya do about that - hmmmm? 30 gals x 6.5 pounds per - not fun.

2. 8 hours labor: Pull the box: If your favorite, homebuilt, massive cherry picker is buried in 5 ft snow banks, and no strong bucks around to help lift it off - howz dat gonna work?

3. 45 minutes max:Take 1 average skiilsaw, mount a steel cutting disc in it and cut a rectangular hole in deck of bed approx 12x18 inches. Figure out a way to re-secure the piece afterwards ( I watched a guy do it on YouTube awesome!). 1 or 2 years older truck, I might have gone for it.

4. 2 hours max: Remove all 8 bed mounting bolts. Re-install all 4 on right side, but catch just 1/2" of threads. Use the supplied tire-changing jack, place on top of tire on drivers side, jack until you can place a short 4x4 between box & frame rail. Release jack, place in-between frame and box, raise higher - enough to get in there and pull that pump (need about 18" vertical room).

You do not even have to disconnect the taillight harnesses, and the only tools needed are a 18mm socket, a couple of extensions, and ratchet ( we chose a 1/2" impact wrench).Oh, and a 8mm to detach filler neck from box.


I absolutely dreaded the job going in, but this way worked waaaay slick. It took longer to R&R the pump than to prop the box up.

Hell, if you've got tools in box, you can even leave them in (withing reason).
My partner in crime said we should have done a vid or taken pics - but I'm not that ambitious...
 

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I used to do my own mechanical work. Now I will work extra doing what I like to do and pay a mechanic. Lol. Never seem to have the right tools.
 
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Man, chit has changed. I remember swapping my 350 out of my 85 3/4 Scottsdale 4x4 into my buddys camero when his took a crap on us. The Camero was a better girl catcher. Swapped Friday afternoon and swapped back Sunday night. Super simple. Just labor and some knowledge.
 
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I cut access panels to do fuel pumps now. Takes around an hour the first time and 15mins top the next. The other benefit is that if the pump goes and your stranded you can fix it on the spot and save a tow bill.

Make a nice clean cover plate with some sealant and your good to go.

Very popular to do these days. I used to drop tanks all the time. Never again will I do it for a pump.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=fuel...ajhgePxIG4AQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=732
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I used to do my own mechanical work. Now I will work extra doing what I like to do and pay a mechanic. Lol. Never seem to have the right tools.
Yep, same here. But I absolutely, positively needed that truck OTJ on Monday AM. Already have one out of service.

I made this remark when washing up: "What's this black stuff on my hands that won't come off with soap and water?"
 

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Millworker said:
I cut access panels to do fuel pumps now. Takes around an hour the first time and 15mins top the next. The other benefit is that if the pump goes and your stranded you can fix it on the spot and save a tow bill.

Make a nice clean cover plate with some sealant and your good to go.

Very popular to do these days. I used to drop tanks all the time. Never again will I do it for a pump.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=fuel+pump+access&espv=210&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=ijYmU_WYEIajhgePxIG4AQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1440&bih=732
Your fuel pumps fail that often???!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Your fuel pumps fail that often???!!
A genuine GM/Delco unit is gonna set a person back $480. The ones that the corner parts store sell are $180 and that's if you include the $24 for the retaining ring (this one was a rusted out turd, like all the tin parts GM uses - don't get me started on brake backing plates!).

The ones from the corner parts store will NOT last 10-12 years like the original did. False economy.

This truck had the heavy duty - and I mean quality - sprayed on bed liner - after 12 years, 190k miles and hauling everything from lumber to race motors, the bed and truck still look good - so we didn't go the hole cutting method. But it damn sure makes sense if you have a beater. I'd do it in a heartbeat.
 

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Your fuel pumps fail that often???!!
Depends on the year of vehicle also depends on what brand of fuel pump you put in. The older style pumps with steel hardline connections didn't last nearly as long as the newer pumps do.


Here is an example of the design difference.

Older pre 1998ish pump assembly



Newer style pump used from late 90s till now, pump casing added and pump is constantly submerged in fuel.



The newer style pump and assembly being a much superior design. But also costs 3-4 times more for a replacement. What most people don't know is that you can actually change the pump itself rather then the whole unit at a fraction of the cost. Only problem is very few parts places stock just the pump and if it goes most people don't have time to wait around for it to come in.
 

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My experience has been, my personal truck never gets old enough for the pump to go, and i drive fords. The work trucks that the guys drive the fuel pumps tend to go around 120k which for those trucks is about 10 years and we tend to dump them for other reasons by 200k
 

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GM mechanic told me that gas cools the submersible fuel pump. if you only keep your tank 1/4 to half full all the time, they overheat/burn out. dunno, that's just what he told me
 

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dayexco said:
GM mechanic told me that gas cools the submersible fuel pump. if you only keep your tank 1/4 to half full all the time, they overheat/burn out. dunno, that's just what he told me
Click and clack said the same thing
 

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GM mechanic told me that gas cools the submersible fuel pump. if you only keep your tank 1/4 to half full all the time, they overheat/burn out. dunno, that's just what he told me
Many people claim this. That may have been true for the older style pumps but not the newer. In my 2001 Astro van my factory GM pump went at 320,000kms. I had a 1/8 of a tank in the van at the time and when I pulled the sending unit out the housing tank that the fuel pump sat in was full of fuel.

If anyone in the early 90s or so with a fuel injected engine remembers stalling out because of nearly running out of gas, most times you could get the vehicle to restart and sputter over to a gas station. When newer vehicles run out of gas they are done and will not restart because of the fuel pump and sending unit design.

So the idea of the fuel pump lifespan being decreased by how much fuel you run in the tank is false, but may have been true with mid 90s or earlier electric pumps. Then again some hot rod guys run electric in line pumps and mount them in the engine bay with no problems. Overall the cooling thing is more of a myth even in the old days IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
GM mechanic told me that gas cools the submersible fuel pump. if you only keep your tank 1/4 to half full all the time, they overheat/burn out. dunno, that's just what he told me
I can believe that. I'm also thinking that keeping them near full slows down the wear on the float/fuel level sender - less bouncing around - which is also famous for wearing out.

This truck rarely RARELY gets below 1/2 tank. It was near the end of its natural life, but the last fill-up put approx 1/2 gallon of water into the tank, and it froze up solid within 10 minutes - AAA had to tow the old girl home Friday night. Set all night in a heated garage,started right up, but then would die - so I knew we had bigger problems - but the danged water started it all.
 

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I've done 2 on my 02 suburban in 3 years... I'm not cutting a hole in the back and there was no way I'm going to lift that cab... thankfully I know a guy who owns a shop with a couple of lifts. I helped him and supplied pizza so it only cost me the $400ish for the pump.
 

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I've done 2 on my 02 suburban in 3 years... I'm not cutting a hole in the back and there was no way I'm going to lift that cab... thankfully I know a guy who owns a shop with a couple of lifts. I helped him and supplied pizza so it only cost me the $400ish for the pump.
It's pretty common to add a cutout to burbs/yukons too!




If done right it is in no way a hack job. Some car manufacturers have been putting them in from factory. Since GM trucks of that generation are known for gas tank straps breaking, maybe its better the tank is dropped and the straps inspected.
 

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Had my 2001 done in January, best move I made, had to due to the fact it quit! A young mechanic that my boys know did it, works for a garage, able to do work in the shop. They lifted the bed with the older style arm lift, found the lines were crap as well. Replace all them from the tank up! Sure does run better now!
 

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My truck and Yukon I just dropped the tank. 3 hours tops. Really not too bad. Thought about lifting the bed but then I had to pull toolbox , bed liner, then bed. Nah , drop the tank!!
 

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It's pretty common to add a cutout to burbs/yukons too!

If done right it is in no way a hack job. Some car manufacturers have been putting them in from factory.
Hmm... I'd have to look up where it is on my model, that might work. However I hope I don't have to do it again.

My Honda accord from many many many years ago had an access panel for the fuel pump, I was surprised that the suburban didn't have it.
 

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We often tilted the beds up in the dealership to get access if the straps and lines looked to rusty and or the tranny jack was already being used. Just rip out all but the two last bolts, thread them back in a couple turns, raise the truck up, put a dead man under the front of the bed and slowly lower the truck. Bed would tilt up like a dump bed and by the time the bed gave you enough clearance the tank was at waste level and easy to work on.
 
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