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Hey guys

I am a painter by trade and we have an exterior door frame that needs replaced. It is a steel door frame that is in a brick exterior with a concrete block interior. We are dealing with relatively new construction that is very sound.

I am going to contract this work out and I would like to familiarize myself with what needs to be done for this job.

Please help me understand what is involved in this job and what type of results I could expect with the finished product assuming who I contract does good work.

Thank You
 

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If this thing was installed properly it will be a tough job, but it can be done. It should have 3 anchors inside the frame on each side which are layed in when the block is layed, and then the whole thing slushed solid with mortar. You can easily tell if this was done by tapping on the frame, should sound solid, not hollow.

I would reccommend you hire a concrete cutting company to do this, they have done it before, and can get it out without damaging the masonry.

Why do you need to take it out?

What's your location? and did introduce yourself in the introductions thread?
 

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this could be a simple operation also.just as mudpad said there should be the door anchors on either side of the door.these are thin metal plates,shaped as a tee.
now the simple part could come in as the person removing the frame,may be able to get a sawz all blade between the door frame and the block.depending on how tight the block layer laid to the door.if it can be done,it would be a matter of sawing tru the anchors.but another issue would be the anchors at the bottom of the door.when i set a metal door frame for block,i use 4 tapcon screws at the bottom.
that to me will be your biggest problem.but it can be done without having to remove brick and or block.
good luck.
 

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If you can't get the sawzall blade in to cut the anchors, cut the head piece in 2 spots. Then you can use a prybar to pull the pieces down.
 

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I might be wrong but I don't see a sawzall working on this application even if the door buck wasn't fully grouted. I think this will wind up being a cutoff saw with an abrasive or diamond blade operation.
 

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  • I've cut a couple of these recently,and the tops were not filled with any mortor or concrete. We were able to cut the head piece pretty easily with a sawzall.Maybe we were just lucky.
 

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I think you were just lucky. The head should have been slushed full for a proper installation.
 

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  • I've cut a couple of these recently,and the tops were not filled with any mortor or concrete. We were able to cut the head piece pretty easily with a sawzall.Maybe we were just lucky.
Sounds like you were lucky, every job that I've been involved with that had a steel frame in masonry were fully grouted.
 

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I doubt you will be able to take it out without damaging the brick in my opinion, especially with the probability of it having been filled solid with mortar.

I would expect you would need to order the same brick and mortar that is around the door, which should be easy since it is new. What I usually do is tooth out the brick around the door by using a german saw. Like others said, it should be filled with mortar, or sometimes concrete to make it solid. If the brick and mortar are ready, I would say it would be a half day task with a one door frame, or maybe a one day project if a double door frame if everything went smoothly. I don't think you will need a concrete cutter to come in. The mason should be able to do it himself.

With any demo job, make sure the dust is minimal by using water. Don't want the fire dept. coming with any alarms set off. DOH!!
 

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the door can be taken out without damageing the masonry, especially by an experienced mason. My opinion is that the header course should be removed and top, center, & bottom of both jambs be toothed as to properly fill jambs and tie door back into the masonry:clap. Odds are, if you tooth the second block up, the middle, and the second course from the top, you may free the ties and be able to get the door out easier:thumbup:
 

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the door can be taken out without damageing the masonry, especially by an experienced mason. My opinion is that the header course should be removed and top, center, & bottom of both jambs be toothed as to properly fill jambs and tie door back into the masonry:clap. Odds are, if you tooth the second block up, the middle, and the second course from the top, you may free the ties and be able to get the door out easier:thumbup:
the only problem i see doing it your way is.
when i lay block,at door opening we grout cells on either side of the door,and across the header.header will have two pieces of rebar while the cells will have one.this will be the s#*ts trying to tooth out.
 
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