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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just sold a re-surface job, 940 sq. ft., boards on a diagonal. The current joists are set on 16 centers but the current deck boards are 2x4's, it sure looks busy. I am replacing the deck boards with Moisture Shield. He has three separate decks and I am just doing one to start there is another 620 square foot that needs attention.

I told the customer that I did not know or could I know what the deck framing looked like until we removed the existing deck boards. He knows we may have to make changes to the framing to bring it up to par. Since the composite will not span 24 inches I told him we would have to add joist between the existing ones.

Now here is my question is anyone using steel besides Robert or is Robert on line? What gauge galvanized steel stud would I need to use?
Turns out the cost of an 8 inch galvanized stud is less expensive that a
2x8 treated board, anyway. I was speaking with W.C. Litzinger of 911 Nails and he said I would need to use a 26 gauge stud for Nail Screws to hold.

Thank you for your input.
 

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In the first paragraph you said they were 16" oc.
What changed?

You could send Robert a pm.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The current joist are on 16 centers but when you run a board on a 45 that increases the span to 24 inches. If your joists are spaced on 12 centers then diagonal boards would be on 16 centers, or there abouts.
 

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I just sold a re-surface job, 940 sq. ft., boards on a diagonal. The current joists are set on 16 centers but the current deck boards are 2x4's, it sure looks busy. I am replacing the deck boards with Moisture Shield. He has three separate decks and I am just doing one to start there is another 620 square foot that needs attention.

I told the customer that I did not know or could I know what the deck framing looked like until we removed the existing deck boards. He knows we may have to make changes to the framing to bring it up to par. Since the composite will not span 24 inches I told him we would have to add joist between the existing ones.

Now here is my question is anyone using steel besides Robert or is Robert on line? What gauge galvanized steel stud would I need to use?
Turns out the cost of an 8 inch galvanized stud is less expensive that a
2x8 treated board, anyway. I was speaking with W.C. Litzinger of 911 Nails and he said I would need to use a 26 gauge stud for Nail Screws to hold.

Thank you for your input.
You sure he didn't mean 16ga? 26ga is useless. Joist spans of 12' is about as far as I go with 8" 16ga steel. I'd have a hard time doing every other joists with steel & wood... It would just be odd.
 

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You sure he didn't mean 16ga? 26ga is useless. Joist spans of 12' is about as far as I go with 8" 16ga steel. I'd have a hard time doing every other joists with steel & wood... It would just be odd.
Do you think there might also be an issue with different C.O.E.'s (Coefficient Of Expansion)?
 

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26 gauge wasn't even allowed in the metal framing I did for walls, it must have been 16 gauge. That's why your cost were less. The cost should be close but generally higher for metal (at least in my neck of the woods).

DONT mix wood and metal framing, you will only get credit for one or the other whichever holds less psf. Not to mention metal requires track which would have to be installed on the rim between joist, which would entail a huge pain in the ass cost. You could bend a tab on the metal joist but I think that would take just as long and being as a tab screwed to wood doesn't get structural credit...

I'd say either rip out the framing and frame in metal or add the wood joist. Give us an update on the moisture shield, I know John's a fan but I've never seen it installed. Sounds like a good potential customer:thumbup:. Good luck.
 

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Just to correct the above... You don't NEED a track, you can hang right off a wood ledger but I wouldn't if I could avoid it.
I added that in there but it doesn't get structural value... At least not here it doesn't. If needed we would cut a tab on the end of each joist and screw directly to the ledger but we wouldn't get credit for structural value according to an official here.
 

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I added that in there but it doesn't get structural value... At least not here it doesn't. If needed we would cut a tab on the end of each joist and screw directly to the ledger but we wouldn't get credit for structural value according to an official here.
That's interesting. Really the code official's opinion should be moot as an engineering letter overrides him (essentially).
 

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I wouldn't add steel joists between PT joists. The existing joists aren't going to be flat and the steel sure is. On most of the redecks I've done(not many), I actually need to put the crown down on the joists to match the sag on the existing joists. Composite won't be forgiving of any unevenness between the joists.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks John for the reminder to about registering with MoistureShield. I think I may be registered already since I am on their website.

Mr. Deckhead if you want to see a MoistureShield deck go to the website http://www.moistureshield.com/ and look under the tab at the top called Deck Care. The deck shown there is one I designed and built. It is elevated and the bottom is a patio cover. I used the rubber membrane to divert any rain. It has an upper and lower Austin stone fireplace.

Robert thanks for the clarification on the correct gauge of stud being 16g. If you remember our previous phone conversations you may remember I said I know nothing about metal framing. I really appreciate being able to talk with other professionals that want to do a job right not just cheap.
 
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