Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 20 of 45 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
163 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I looked at a basement job the other day.I guess she had a 9" of water in the basement.This happened back in October.She had a company come in right after and removed the drywall,insulation and part of the vapor barrior.It was dried out thoroughly and no signs of any moisture.I have to go back Fri and measure but i think its about 187 ln ft. 18"H.The lady said u dont have to put new plastic or insulation up.I don't agree with the way she wants it done.
I have done taping/mudding before.I'm ok at it but i try to put too much on.I plan on using blue or green board and paper tape.The board up there is 1/2 in.I can reach up and feel insulation and plastic.

I have a few questions some i know the answers to and some i don't.I cant go wrong by posting here and getting a few tips and pointers.
Insulation
1)what type?
2)paper/no paper?
Vapor barrier.
1)What mil do i use ?
2)Do i have to connect it to the old vapor barrier?It is kinda up there past where they cut the drywall.
3)Does it go on the face of the studs then the drywall?

Sheetrock
1)blue or green?
2)Do i just screw it to the studs or put shims behind it to make it level with the old stuff.

Mud.
I haven't had much luck with paper tape but i think it would be needed here
I was thinking of using ez sand 45 or 90.and giving it a few coats in one day.
I haven't used real plaster but i will if it is recommended by you folks.
I need something that i can sponge or very lightly sand.

Corner bead
On the corners i believe it is metal.They cut it up 19".
Do i but up the new corner bead with the old or overlap just a bit?

I feel like a real knob for even asking these questions.Like i said i know most of the answers but sometimes i feel insecure of my knowledge due to the fact that i don't do this every day.Mostly i do painting and handyman type of work.I have 2 plasterers that i would like to use but they are too busy.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,Rob.
 

Attachments

·
Hair Splitter
Joined
·
18,330 Posts
Honestly if you haven't done a whole lot of drywall repair a job this big isn't the time to start practicing. It takes a certain level of experience to match old and new and cannot be learned over a forum.

You could do all the prep work but hire someone to finish.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,977 Posts
Insulation type is up to you as long as the R value is up to code in your area.
If the plastic is shoved up there a ways on your vapor barrier, I would skip the plastic and use a vapor barrier primer over the whole wall.
You shouldn't need to shim the studs, regular drywall will work fine.

I agree with TNT, if you have little experience with paper tape, then don't try it on your own unless it was your own house. Paper taping is too easy for a carpenter to screw up and can't be explained online. Hang your Sheetrock then hire an experienced drywall finisher for a day, let him mud tape, and texture then learn a few things.
 

·
Hair Splitter
Joined
·
18,330 Posts
I have done it many times and feel comfortable.I just don't really like it.I may look for another sub.
I am going to a bit more blunt, if you feel the need to ask the questions you did, you are not nearly comfortable enough to do it. Also, if you are putting it on too thick, then something of this scale will cause you some major issues.
 

·
Pro
Joined
·
2,859 Posts
I'm sorry but if you can't drywall , stick some batts in walls of basement . Call it a day And go flip brugars or wash cars . It's basic carpentry one o one .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
641 Posts
I looked at a basement job the other day.I guess she had a 9" of water in the basement.This happened back in October.She had a company come in right after and removed the drywall,insulation and part of the vapor barrior.It was dried out thoroughly and no signs of any moisture.I have to go back Fri and measure but i think its about 187 ln ft. 18"H.The lady said u dont have to put new plastic or insulation up.I don't agree with the way she wants it done.
I have done taping/mudding before.I'm ok at it but i try to put too much on.I plan on using blue or green board and paper tape.The board up there is 1/2 in.I can reach up and feel insulation and plastic.

I have a few questions some i know the answers to and some i don't.I cant go wrong by posting here and getting a few tips and pointers.
Insulation
1)what type?
2)paper/no paper?
Vapor barrier.
1)What mil do i use ?
2)Do i have to connect it to the old vapor barrier?It is kinda up there past where they cut the drywall.
3)Does it go on the face of the studs then the drywall?

Sheetrock
1)blue or green?
2)Do i just screw it to the studs or put shims behind it to make it level with the old stuff.

Mud.
I haven't had much luck with paper tape but i think it would be needed here
I was thinking of using ez sand 45 or 90.and giving it a few coats in one day.
I haven't used real plaster but i will if it is recommended by you folks.
I need something that i can sponge or very lightly sand.

Corner bead
On the corners i believe it is metal.They cut it up 19".
Do i but up the new corner bead with the old or overlap just a bit?

I feel like a real knob for even asking these questions.Like i said i know most of the answers but sometimes i feel insecure of my knowledge due to the fact that i don't do this every day.Mostly i do painting and handyman type of work.I have 2 plasterers that i would like to use but they are too busy.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,Rob.
here is one way....
dura rock strips
13'' roll of fibafuse
and play in the mud
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,633 Posts
Rob, Just do it. Use mesh and 90 for your first coat. Bucket mud for the rest. Butt bead. Hang to studs. Keep board off floor at least 3/4''. Reg drywall.

Take your time. First day- Hang,mesh and first coat 90. Clean up and go home. Next trip, bucket mud, one coat go home. Next day same thing. Should be looking good by this point. Next day sand and touch up.....Ready for paint.

I don't deal with basements and vapor barriers here in Florida. If she wants you to skip that part I really can't help you with an answer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
this is my daily job. i work doing restoration rebuilding after floods and fires.
I would cut it up to 25" and do your best to not cut the vapour barrier.
i would figure out what the local code is for the insulation.
i'd use a 6mm vapour barrier and over lap and tape to the existing.
i've been to hundreds of flooded basements. i've been in basements where there was blue/green board. The stuff still gets moldy and anything with paper will mold. The only difference is if the place floods again(looks like its flooded before with the tape joint at the 18") the water will only wick up the drywall 6" and regular drywall will wick up 12". either way its going to get tore out again.
once the board is on prefill all the joints with easy sand. seeing is how its been tore out before there will be a build up of mud. So when prefilling load the crack up and skim the lower board a good 6" to flatten it out a bit.
Then use green lid taping mud and paper tape.
your going to have to skim out the wall 2-3times and your skim coat will be up to 2' wide using the easy sand will speed things up but doing atleast the final skim with a finish mud is recommended. seeing is how your skimming a painted surface you may want to prime the paint wall where your skim will be to avoid having bubbles in your mud.
I would cut your corner beads nicely. Then cut a small piece of bead and hammer it up inbehind the existing bead then cut your new bead and butt up to the existing so your sistering the beads together.
once the drywall work is complete prime about 4' up the wall then paint the entire wall with wall color
 

·
That guy
Joined
·
89 Posts
How dare you come here asking questions to help you do it right instead of just hacking the whole job?!!

I would do a exactly as you were just advised, except go to 24" for better material usage. That gap at the bottom will help prevent damage in future floods of smaller magnitude. I worked for ServPro for a while doing flood remediation and repair and I noticed that walls that had a decent gap were spared when the floor was soaked. You may also want to do a pvc coated baseboard for further insurance, just make sure you paint paint/seal anywhere you cut.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
I agree with both of the last 2 posts here. I do restoration work for a large national type company as well, and would do the gap at the bottom, giving a "air gap" from the floor, mesh tape on the flat joints, paper tape in the corners, "hot mud", on the first coat, bucket mud on the last 2, and cut up 12" 16" OR 24" pending needed to work the materials to the best. As far as insulation, replace what was removed as needed, with the same. 2 coats of primer, then paint. We have found, and please don't ask me why, but 2 coats of primer seems to hide the patch better, for the roller type texture, etc., blends in better? That is what we do!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
i said cut it at 25" to leave a 1" gap at the bottom so you are well above the concrete floor. you dont want to cut it at exactly 24". This way you can snap sheets in half. I dont remember mesh tape because you'll have to skim it wider because the mesh is thicker and there is alot higher chance of it cracking. and i have to disagree with 2 coats of primer. One generous coat is all you need. There isnt alot of color in primer so if you can still see thru it but it is sealed properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
Gavin, calm down! I did not mean to poop in your WHEATIES! I just made a reply to what we do! We do 2 coats of primer, that is COMPANY policy here where I work! And as far as the 25" thing, please go back and read your message, then let me know where you stated about the 1" off the floor thing? It didn't appear on my computer screen! I was JUST trying to give a person my thoughts, and things seem to have went SOUTH! LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
667 Posts
And, Garvin, or anyone else? Does mesh tape on a flat joint work? If you know what to do, with drywall, done it before on a patch, cause a "hump", or CRACKING? On a patch, in my opinion, ya need to "feather it out" as needed, who cares how far, to be done correct! Thanks, Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
136 Posts
They make an ultra thin mesh tape that I Use in these situations.
I use 45 or 90 min hot mud to do a quick fill / cover. One coat of regular compound before leaving. If it is a small job - a second coat of the hot mud.
I agree that you should cut the boards in half - 24". Set them on a piece of 1X and use a multi tool to follow the new top edge. Wa-la nice tight joint.
Insulation and vapor barrier as above.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
not getting upset or anything. my original post said cut to the wall 25" before installing the board. and i'm going to have to say mesh tape shouldnt be used on any joint. Only paper tape should be used. i've seen far to many jobs where the joints cracked. i've tried mesh and ill never use it again. Now as far as fibafuse i've never used it. Nobody here stocks it and it could be awesome i don't know
 
1 - 20 of 45 Posts
Top