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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looked at a repair job the other day where the owner ripped up the trim coil around the garage door opening with the car.
The exterior of the home is stucco and is flush with the leading edge of the 2x8 that frames the garage and it is wrapped with trim coil.
We need to cut a saw kerf all around the door frame to allow us to remove the old coil, wrap new, and caulk the saw kerf with matching caulk.
I'm wondering what to cut the stucco with, was thinking maybe a sawzall with metal cutting blade but wondered about vibrations cracking the stucco. Then I thought maybe a grinder but you'd have to be awful careful not to drift into the stucco and keep a very straight and caukable line so that it looked good.
Ideas??
Thanks, :thumbsup:
Dave
 

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Looked at a repair job the other day where the owner ripped up the trim coil around the garage door opening with the car.
The exterior of the home is stucco and is flush with the leading edge of the 2x8 that frames the garage and it is wrapped with trim coil.
We need to cut a saw kerf all around the door frame to allow us to remove the old coil, wrap new, and caulk the saw kerf with matching caulk.
I'm wondering what to cut the stucco with, was thinking maybe a sawzall with metal cutting blade but wondered about vibrations cracking the stucco. Then I thought maybe a grinder but you'd have to be awful careful not to drift into the stucco and keep a very straight and caukable line so that it looked good.
Ideas??
Thanks, :thumbsup:

Dave
Dave, good name, mine also. Are you saying the coil is behind the stucco?
Why not just cut the coil before it goes behind the stucco with a saw?:eek:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Dave, good name, mine also. Are you saying the coil is behind the stucco?
Why not just cut the coil before it goes behind the stucco with a saw?:eek:
Yeah the coil is behind the stucco and the garage door frame is flush with the stucco, need to bend around the edge and embed the coil into the saw cut, then caulk over. They did the coil wrap and then stucco up to it. Pretty normal way to do it but hard to repair. No way to make it look decent without going around the edge and back into the stucco.
Thanks.......
 

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Leave the old wrap

Put up an undersill around the whole frame, and caulk the backside of it before attaching it and then slip your new trim into the undersill. The back caulking will keep it from leaking, and as long as you leave the old metal in place if it DOES leak its not going to damage anything.

OR build out your trim so it sticks past the stucco and wrap back to the stucco and caulk the joint
 

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I hate the undersill look. Seen it a lot.

I can cut a pretty nice grove in stucco with an angle grinder with a diamond blade on it.

Just cut some stucco last week with a diamond blade on my circular saw. Set the saw table on a built up guide and made a nice cut all the way down the roof line.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
OR build out your trim so it sticks past the stucco and wrap back to the stucco and caulk the joint
I can cut a pretty nice grove in stucco with an angle grinder with a diamond blade on it.
Thanks for the good ideas, should have thought to just build it out, if they don't like that idea we can use a grinder but I'd rather do it without even cutting the stucco.
Thanks again.............
 

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I hate the undersill look. Seen it a lot.

I can cut a pretty nice grove in stucco with an angle grinder with a diamond blade on it.

Just cut some stucco last week with a diamond blade on my circular saw. Set the saw table on a built up guide and made a nice cut all the way down the roof line.
I agree with you on the undersill look. But I've done it many times. I just never had the guts to put a grinder to it.
 

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garage doors are the worst areas to wrap,leaning bikes and garden tools on them dents and scratches them quickly
im starting to paint the inside jambs and using azek or miretec on the outside casing
We still wrap the garage doors (LAST) and then run to our truck and head off to the next job before someone can dent them :laughing:

Kick plates for doors though, we stopped using metal and started using Azek. It is a PERFECT use for all our scraps left over after skirting a deck
 
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hey, since the 2x is flush with the stucco, rip some 1/2" 4ply to 1-1/2" or even rip some 1x4and pack out the edge of the 2x to save on the stucco from possible damage. Score the coil on the face of the 2x and remove everything to the inside of the door taking off the stops. Install your packout and recap from the stucco edge around to the other edge, reinstall your stop. Caulk the edge where the cap meets the stucco and call it a day. The door would probably look nicer anyway if it were packed out a bit to add depth to the frame.
 

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hey, since the 2x is flush with the stucco, rip some 1/2" 4ply to 1-1/2" or even rip some 1x4and pack out the edge of the 2x to save on the stucco from possible damage. Score the coil on the face of the 2x and remove everything to the inside of the door taking off the stops. Install your packout and recap from the stucco edge around to the other edge, reinstall your stop. Caulk the edge where the cap meets the stucco and call it a day. The door would probably look nicer anyway if it were packed out a bit to add depth to the frame.

unless the garage door is under a soffit i wouldn't just rely on a caulk joint at the head:no:

i hear you Patrick we call them ''dent plates'':censored:

actually im rethinking all my entry ways,no more aluminum :no:
composites and paintfrom now on

but for those that do i would recomend not putting the coil under the garage door stops,i would put undersill along the stops,makes replacing the wrap much easier
 

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The coil is done correct, right? It runs under the stucco on the wall, right? So then there are no leaks on the wall.

Why not just use Azek and trim it out?

We aren't wrapping garage doors any more. It seem to be a better solution to flash it correctly with coil and trim with Azek. Looks better too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
The coil is done correct, right? It runs under the stucco on the wall, right? So then there are no leaks on the wall.

Why not just use Azek and trim it out?

We aren't wrapping garage doors any more. It seem to be a better solution to flash it correctly with coil and trim with Azek. Looks better too.
I'd like to know more about using Azek to trim out an existing garage with damaged trim coil. :thumbsup: We don't use Azek very much so I'm not sure how it would be done and also wonder what the nominal thickness it is commonly availble in to be able to use it in a situation like this without shrinking the opening too much. What would you guys do who use Azek quite a bit?
 

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I just started using it. Some of the others are much more experienced. I think it comes as thin as 1/2" actual size, but is labeled 3/4".

I used one to wrap the door jamb (ripped down, so that it left an inch hanging out), then used a thinner board (ripped to 3" wide) and trimmed with that, just like an interior window trim. I am no expert with the stuff, and only used it once so far, but very impressed. I used 15 guage Paslode nailer and it seems to hold very well. Also used the glue on the joints. at 18-24 ft. lengths it works nice. Even if it gets dirty, you can sand it out, clean it, or it can take paint. I also like how it can be replaced this way without removing the siding.
 
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