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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Been coming across this alot lately, and usually try to get people to change the door, but with times being hard i started repairing them!:laughing:

i t turns out you can make a decent days pay or better and not really bust your back tearing out doors:whistling ive done about 10 of these already and each time it seams that it gets easier and easier!:thumbup:
Heres were the fein multimaster shines and you quickly forget how much the MM cost!

this is a 6 year old home!
 

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KemoSabe
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It looks like that door needed a carpet shim under it. Does that butt-ugly rug get stuck under that door?:whistling
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
They took all the furniture but left the rug for the new owners!

That putty job lasted about 2 mnths from what i was told by the realtor!

painters think the caulk and putty is the answer to everything!:shutup:
 

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KemoSabe
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They took all the furniture but left the rug for the new owners!

That putty job lasted about 2 mnths from what i was told by the realtor!

painters think the caulk and putty is the answer to everything!:shutup:
I would have used Azek.:w00t::laughing::clap: Looks good on the repair.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I was considering that but the azek is to smooth and doent look natural as you cant really sand it to @ the joint!
 

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Just curious, not trying to start something here.....do you ever apply 2 part penetrating epoxy sealer to the areas that you removed the rot ? Rot is a living organism as you probably know. Looks like you got most of it out.

I found out about these products on these forums.
I use http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/product.html and http://www.abatron.com/cms/

I too do a lot of rot repair also. Just got a FMM about 6 months ago. Its true. How did I get by without it ?
 

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Steve
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I have been using No Rot door frames. The bottom 4 inches is fiberglass.
I measure the hinge and latch distances, give that info to my door company and in a few days have a new frame. The old door hinges fit without any adjustment and all is good. I will hold up better than a patch.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
No i do not use the 2 part apoxy, and to tell you the truth 2 yrs ago i would of only replaced the door or walked away from this!
I just cut the rot out and use white gorilla glue at all connections! it is just a repair!
 

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KemoSabe
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I was considering that but the azek is to smooth and doent look natural as you cant really sand it to @ the joint!
We've been using the units with composite bottoms on the jamb legs. It seems to put an end to that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
this is a 6 year old home!



You should tack your Business Card inside the door jamb,so you can get the call in 6 more years for either another repair, or replacement.:rolleyes:

yes built in 03 ! unbelievable!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
We've been using the units with composite bottoms on the jamb legs. It seems to put an end to that problem.

Thanks lone, There goes my job security:laughing:
 

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KemoSabe
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Thanks lone, There goes my job security:laughing:
Should be plenty of those plywood paneled window bays for you to wrap with Azek, no?:thumbup:
 

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Wow! 6 years & it had already been bondoed before. Go figure?
Steve

Been coming across this alot lately, and usually try to get people to change the door, but with times being hard i started repairing them!:laughing:

i t turns out you can make a decent days pay or better and not really bust your back tearing out doors:whistling ive done about 10 of these already and each time it seams that it gets easier and easier!:thumbup:
Heres were the fein multimaster shines and you quickly forget how much the MM cost!

this is a 6 year old home!
 

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Just installed 13 Replacement windows in a Cape today for a "Flipper".Just tacked them in place till HO makes a decision.
75% of the sills were shot,as well as the bottom 6" of the most window trim.
Someone had already scabbed on new sill faces,leaving a gaping hole for water to enter.

Tomorrow I'll talk the painter into convincing HO to replace rather than patch as planned.
By the time I get done,they would have been better off replacing with Prime windows as first suggested.

It'll be interesting to see what the decision is.
I would think the labor involved in patching is more than replacement in this situation.
I'll probably figure the price that way,just so I don't have to deal with the aggravation of trying to get it so it doesn't look like a patch,and the next HO won't have a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Just installed 13 Replacement windows in a Cape today for a "Flipper".Just tacked them in place till HO makes a decision.
75% of the sills were shot,as well as the bottom 6" of the most window trim.
Someone had already scabbed on new sill faces,leaving a gaping hole for water to enter.

Tomorrow I'll talk the painter into convincing HO to replace rather than patch as planned.
By the time I get done,they would have been better off replacing with Prime windows as first suggested.

It'll be interesting to see what the decision is.
I would think the labor involved in patching is more than replacement in this situation.
I'll probably figure the price that way,just so I don't have to deal with the aggravation of trying to get it so it doesn't look like a patch,and the next HO won't have a problem.

i know, but to tell you the truth i kinda like the repairing now, The Homeowners think they know whats best and for me its cake work! No helper needed, i,ll do this all week long:thumbup:
 
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i know, but to tell you the truth i kinda like the repairing now, The Homeowners think they know whats best and for me its cake work! No helper needed, i,ll do this all week long:thumbup:
or..........
At least till loneframer puts you out of business with his composite door bottoms!:laughing:
 

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I buy a solid pvc jamb from the supplier & use 6" pieces off of it to do repairs. I do a 45 cut to splice it to the existing jamb, shim & seal off the seam.
I would rather use a composite jamb, but I haven't found full jambs made of composite material.
Steve


Some more
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I buy a solid pvc jamb from the supplier & use 6" pieces off of it to do repairs. I do a 45 cut to splice it to the existing jamb, shim & seal off the seam.
I would rather use a composite jamb, but I haven't found full jambs made of composite material.
Steve

Yes but thats thicker than a jamb, that piece is 2" x 2 1/2" i never seen around here pvc trim 2" thick
 
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