[mski]

I have to relocate a toilet in a bathroom remodel and I need to cut off the existing elbow and closet flange from the main 4" stack and remove the pipe from the fitting then extend about 5' away from the stack.
From the stack they elbowed 90* right up to the toilet location. Cutting the stack fitting out and replacing is not an option.

So that being said do I
A) bight the bullet for a 4' Ram bit for one time use
B) hacksaw and carefully chisel the cut pvc piece from the pipe bell
C) get a heat gun and try to heat the piece inside the bell until I can remove it with a flathead screwdriver and needle nose

 

[mikeswoods]

Bite the bullet and get a Ram bit---your other options have a risk greater than the cost of the bit------

 

[jaydee]

My vote is for "a"

do it right, or, do it again...

 

[owattabuilder]

I saw my plumber chisel out a fitting, slow and easy a d it went well. He has had a lot od experience however. He had forgotten his bit in hismother truck.

 

[jaydee]

He had forgotten his bit in hismother truck.

Wow, his mother is a plumber TOO. :laughing::blink:

 

[mski]

Thanks guys. I'm leaning to the Ram bit also.
Hopefully I can find it locally if not it's hack and chisel (and praying).

 

[tenon0774]

I saw my plumber chisel out a fitting, slow and easy a d it went well. He has had a lot od experience however. He had forgotten his bit in hismother truck.

I've seen and done this as well.

It can be done, slow and steady with a generous helping of patience.

You'll still have to prep the hub again once the pipe is out.

( dremel's are great tools for this )

If it were abs, then my vote would be A, as well.

 

[Dan_Watson]

It's about $45 for the ram bit?

How is that not worth it....

 

[mski]

It's about $45 for the ram bit?

How is that not worth it....

For a 4"?

 

[gbruzze1]

I just checked the price on a 4" ram bit...50 bucks. That doesn't seem like much money to me at all for this tool. Am I missing something?

 

[gbruzze1]

For a 4"?

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/rambit-plastic-fitting-saver-tool.html

 

[mski]

I just checked the price on a 4" ram bit...50 bucks. That doesn't seem like much money to me at all for this tool. Am I missing something?

I never checked on the price yet as I opened up the small area of the first floor ceiling under the second floor bathroom yesterday where the toilet is to find out the situation.
I'll need to find it locally rather than online.

Actually here is the situation.
7 years ago there was a whole house remodel. In this bathroom the contractor ordered the wrong size tub. The toilet was suppose to go behind the tub. There wasnt enough room from the tub to the wall to put the toilet (its now a closet) so the contractor put the toilet at the door area then installed the vanity. So when the clients kids sit on the toilet with door open (like kids do), when someone comes to the front door and looks up the stairs into the bathroom at the top of the stairs, there is a kid doing their business.
I'm flipping the vanity and the toilet which should have been done from the beginning.

 

[tenon0774]

It's about $45 for the ram bit?

How is that not worth it....

For me, as a carpenter, i don't hesitate to buy a $60 router bit. I charge the customer a portion of the cost and I keep the bit, however; I WILL use it again.

Not sure what the OP's trade is, but it doesn't sound like plumbing.

$50 for a bit that I may NEVER use again, as a carpenter, vs. 35mins with the dremel and a sharp chisel, (both of which are ON the van )...

I'm leaning towards the tools I have.

Or I call my buddy, the plumber.

 

[mski]

For me, as a carpenter, i don't hesitate to buy a $60 router bit. I charge the customer a portion of the cost and I keep the bit, however; I WILL use it again.

Not sure what the OP's trade is, but it doesn't sound like plumbing.

$50 for a bit that I may NEVER use again, as a carpenter, vs. 35mins with the dremel and a sharp chisel, (both of which are ON the van )...

I'm leaning towards the tools I have.

Or I call my buddy, the plumber.

Same as you. Remodeling contractor.
I do a lot of my own work unless it's not worth my time or money. I bring in the specialist when I need to.

 

[KillerToiletSpider]

I'd do it the easy way and replace the whole san tee.

 

[MarkJames]

I have to relocate a toilet in a bathroom remodel and I need to cut off the existing elbow and closet flange from the main 4" stack and remove the pipe from the fitting then extend about 5' away from the stack.
From the stack they elbowed 90* right up to the toilet location. Cutting the stack fitting out and replacing is not an option.

So that being said do I
A) bight the bullet for a 4' Ram bit for one time use
B) hacksaw and carefully chisel the cut pvc piece from the pipe bell
C) get a heat gun and try to heat the piece inside the bell until I can remove it with a flathead screwdriver and needle nose

Got a pic? This sounds like an overly-complicated solution. Isn't there any place to cut it and add a hub...something like that?

 

[gbruzze1]

I never checked on the price yet as I opened up the small area of the first floor ceiling under the second floor bathroom yesterday where the toilet is to find out the situation. I'll need to find it locally rather than online.

All the more reason for the Amazon drone deliveries.

 

[mski]

I'll try and remember to get a pic tomorrow.
The toilet 90's from the stack directly up to the closet flange and on top of that the sinks and tub tie into another fitting on the stack.
I'd have to rip open flooring and walls to cut everything out.
Ram bitting it or chiseling will be much easier than replacing the whole san-tee.

 

[tenon0774]

Agreed.

Tell us how it works out.

 

[KillerToiletSpider]

This thread kind of proves that hub and spigot cast iron is a superior product, burn lead out of joint, remove fitting from san tee, and still have a perfectly good hub to go back to. Drilling out a PVC fitting that was poorly made in the first place greatly increases your chance of creating a larger problem.