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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm tearing out Lino and 1/4" underlayment, then laying cement board and slate tiles. Pretty straightforward.

However-- The lauan was not just stapled but also glued down. Most of it came right up but there are a lot of areas where I'm having to chip the stuff up with a hammer/chisel or whatever other tools I can find to remove it. Hammer and chisel is relatively effective until I hit the staples. Removing staples can't happen till the top layer or so is chiseled away. And some of it has practically fused with the 3/4" subfloor. Needless to say its a lot of freaking work! My hands are beat up, muscles sore, etc and I still have approx 50 SF left to remove. Resuming work on Monday.

Any suggestions on how to make this easier?? Not as young as I used to be! I'm thinking maybe there's a bit for my multi-tool that might do the trick? Or something? Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes, tried that. I have the big long handled scraper. It gets thru the areas where the lauan comes up easily but in the places where the glue is really doing its job, it's just not working. Thanks though!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'll pick up the scraper blade for my sawzall, good idea. I think I thought of that earlier today but then promptly forgot. Lol

Walk-behind scraper won't work, mostly tight areas, corners, around door jambs.

Thanks guys
 

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SDS with a Sharp tile chisel. pre-cut the luan into like 8x8" squares.
Finish up staples and glue chunks with dustless cup grinder. This makes smooth subfloor.
Before i do any of this tearout i inform customers that it is +$1.25 sf if the floor is glued down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Great ideas. Really appreciate all the feedback.

$1/SF is what I'm charging for the tear-out. Will definitely charge a bit more next time!
 

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Stump grinder, along the same lines, but I don't think they make a specific tool for it, that's why I never would glue plywood together unless it was permanent and another layer of material on top that can be removed when flooring is changed out .
The concept of floor prep charges are distorted, floor prep is by far more work sometimes than laying the floor over it, also it is preventing you from installing the product you make money on thereby slowing down an install. That price seems low to me and I'm in Florida, we know low prices.
I know some jobs you got to suck it up and move on. Helps as you work to curse the idiot that put the adhesive down , and a radio!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Radio: Check.

Cursing the guy who installed it: CHECK, CHECK, CHECK. If the dude is still alive (floor was installed 30 years ago) his ears are burning off his goofy little head! I've had some choice words for him along the way.

(Hmm... If he is still around, wonder if I could track him down? Slap him with one of my swollen bleeding hands??) lol
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
And Mike: Agreed - gluing 1/4" ply is definitely a ridiculous thing to do! Glue it, then staple it every 2"?? All that for crappy perimeter-glued linoleum? Insane. Thanks for the input. It helps me psychologically!
 

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I think we all feel your pain. Some ceramic tile ripups come up in 3" chips, there's no way in hell it needs to be bonded to slab that well, simply insane! I say when I'm done.
 

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I'd go the flexblade chipping hammer route, the versatility of both items are incredible. Own them, their always readily available. Always electric available, I do have the air chisel, haven't used it in two years, still need 10 cfm compressor for alre-5 I have.
Depending on adhesive , you may be able to wedge and separate two layers, with flexblade, the dam bolts get in way sometimes, staples may not pose problem for steel blade, tried on tackstrip but case hardened nails damages blade tip .
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The height of the floor is the issue. 3/4" subfloor and I want 1/2" CBU minimum, plus the thickness of the slate will put us within 1/8" +/- of the adjacent hardwood flooring. (The slate varies in thickness from 1/4"" to 1/2"", approx.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Customer doesn't want too much of a height difference at the transition (or none at all if possible), so yes I'll either be culling the "perfect" pieces for that transition or shaving off slate to make it happen.
But back to the point: it is necessary to remove the lauan for height purposes as well as the overall strength of the floor.
 
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