Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Contractor
Joined
·
4,742 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have about 500sqft of 12" tile installed over the original 3/4" subfloor on a modular condo job. I looked for indicators in the closets and think it's thinset but defn not a layer of anything under the tile. There are lots of cracks at the joints-some tiles, but I will remove and install an engineered wood floor per clients request.

Any tips on removal of existing? I've scraped enough VCT and figure the scraper may help but concerned about gouging of the floor/backed out nails and trying to get the surface smooth for the new covering. I have a belt sander if needed to knock down the thinset.

I'm leaning towards an adhesive installation for the flooring. Probably not looking for 3/4" nail down based on clients request. Any recommendations would be appreciated.
 

·
Remodeler
Joined
·
855 Posts
Put the engineered over the tile, call it a day. Can you spare the 3/8" increase in height?

If it's just thinset directly over ply, should come up pretty easy.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,751 Posts
I'd rent a diamond grinder with shroud attachment and vacuum , still nail the hardwood down , otherwise nail the hell out of an underlayment and glue on top of that(engineered)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,706 Posts
is there lathe under the tile? because you dont see it on the end doesnt mean it isnt there.

if so get down and dirty with a gorilla bar..nothing beats some grunt
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
4,742 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
thx guys!

modular condo-not sure of the proper terminology, I've worked on MF housing similar, but this place was interesting that the partition walls down the middle as well as between units were 2x6 construction. I've noticed some interesting large buildings going up on my travels recently-downtown LA and NYC for instance, where the first two stories were poured concrete and the 4-5 on top were wood construction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,751 Posts
Yes Craig, most of thinset stuck to tile, coming up from 1/2-3 full pieces at a time. Pier, wall combo on canal, had settling problem, were gonna schluter but floor was out of wack, suggested gluedown LVP/T.
Pictures of backyard and new build across street, rained that day and 5" of water standing along street.

image-560084003.jpg

image-3067705807.jpg



image-1023522113.jpg
 

·
Remodeler
Joined
·
855 Posts
MIKE ANTONETTI said:
Yes Craig, most of thinset stuck to tile, coming up from 1/2-3 full pieces at a time. Pier, wall combo on canal, had settling problem, were gonna schluter but floor was out of wack, suggested gluedown LVP/T. Pictures of backyard and new build across street, rained that day and 5" of water standing along street.
Is that your backyard? Nice!!! Are you on the withlacoochee? Didn't realize it went through Beverly Hills. Don't drink the water !!! I was in the boat the other day and had to pee. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,751 Posts
No not my home, this is Crystal River that goes out to Gulf, I'd only live on Rainbow river in Dunnellon around here. No see ums drive me crazy next to Gulf side. Squitos on Gospel Island was a hassle also. High and dry around here( Pine Ridge ) next move is east coast Florida.
I think I miss rip ups on wood subfloors already, except for mud beds, dam was that easy!
 

·
Contractor
Joined
·
4,742 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Looks good Mike! My job starts May-occupancy issues.

Is the new floor going down on the existing subfloor or getting built up? I've sold all of my previous jobs with putting a new layer of 1/2" down then 1/4" cement board-is that still the norm on 3/4" plywood?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,751 Posts
This home had some " sinking corner issues " my brothers friend was with us and he was a building contractor and he said he felt the floor pitch and dive in the middle, I saw the hutch they put back against the wall it was leaning back, the straightedge in the back room was teeter tottering about an inch. We were going to go over with schluter, some self leveling is fine but when it gets deep I suggested different product, direct glue luxury vinyl plank.
I didn't hear the contractor wanting level the joists, I sure as hell don't want to do it. After what looked to be a few tile jobs, you gotta throw in the towel if it isn't working .
I'd just be going by guidelines over a wood subfloor, the Durock is one way, Hardi, schluter.
I turn down showers over a subfloor as well, I only helped my Dad up north as a kid with lead pans, etc. Subfloors are just not my comfort zone, water or not.
 

·
Remodeler
Joined
·
855 Posts
MIKE ANTONETTI said:
No not my home, this is Crystal River that goes out to Gulf, I'd only live on Rainbow river in Dunnellon around here. No see ums drive me crazy next to Gulf side. Squitos on Gospel Island was a hassle also. High and dry around here( Pine Ridge ) next move is east coast Florida. I think I miss rip ups on wood subfloors already, except for mud beds, dam was that easy!
.

Yeah I don't get many wood subfloors , waaay easier than the slabs for tearout, that's for sure.

Rainbow river us nice!! It dumps into the withlacoochee too.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,857 Posts
I have a 680sf Tile over mortar and screwed Durock on plywood tearout tomorrow. I will post some pics.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,751 Posts
Dated or Failed ? Interesting, so you removing Sawcut sections? I'll prob. Get some good tips from you , the Durock screw removal technique, how's schluter removals ?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,857 Posts
Dated. Ill know a lot more tomorrow. Usually I have a helper unscrew them it is faster than pulling , pounding them in is a pain too.
 
  • Like
Reactions: AustinDB
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top