[Xtrememtnbiker]

So I built this end panel for a job we are on that has 8' 8" ceilings and we needed it to be deeper than 24" as you can see in the photos.

I used the TS55 and ripped the side going to the wall at 5° then I put into place, ran down the wall with a pencil, used the angle grinder method to scribe it. Did that a couple times to get it perfect. Also did the floor line as well. Then I glued and clamped a 2" piece to the side for screwing to the wall after it was in place.

I've never done something like this before so my questions...

If it was built off site how would you handle making it the right size to still be able to custom fit it to fit the wall, floor, and cabinet face frame and still have a way of attaching it?

Is the method I used to attach it normal or do you guys do it different? Any other thoughts, observations, or suggestions are welcomed. I love learning from you guys to be able to do better quality work for our clients.

 

[Gus Dering]

The way you did it looks fine to me. The only unfortunate thing is the cabinet is about 6" too short.

If we built this box the left stile would extend to the floor with a little extra length for scribe. The left end would have an extra 3/8" at the wall for scribing there as well. Given you have crown, the whole assembly would finish about 1 1/2" from the lid with the gap covered by the crown. That distance is driven by the size of crown and the reveal I want between the crown and door.

The cabinet is placed on the wall, shimmed plumb and level. Set the scribes appropriately and mark the bottom and wall line. Take it down, cut and grind like you did and stick it back up there.

You can use a cleat like you did so long as there is room. You can toe screw to the wall with trim head screws from the inside along with a nice bead of caulk too. There probably is no backing there but once the caulk is dry, there shouldn't be trouble.

 

[Xtrememtnbiker]

The way you did it looks fine to me. The only unfortunate thing is the cabinet is about 6" too short. If we built this box the left stile would extend to the floor with a little extra length for scribe. The left end would have an extra 3/8" at the wall for scribing there as well. Given you have crown, the whole assembly would finish about 1 1/2" from the lid with the gap covered by the crown. That distance is driven by the size of crown and the reveal I want between the crown and door. The cabinet is placed on the wall, shimmed plumb and level. Set the scribes appropriately and mark the bottom and wall line. Take it down, cut and grind like you did and stick it back up there. You can use a cleat like you did so long as there is room. You can toe screw to the wall with trim head screws from the inside along with a nice bead of caulk too. There probably is no backing there but once the caulk is dry, there shouldn't be trouble.

Well, this is a flip house for an investor I should mention. As far as the cabinet height goes, I am making a panel that has two drawer fronts attached that will go in the gap. These cabinets are RTA cabinets. Not exactly your quality in the slightest. But they work, well, sort of, sometimes you have to belt sand the side panels cause they stick up a little but the end result is sufficient for what he is doing. Couldn't get a taller cabinet for there and he wanted full depth instead of a 30" high 12" deep wall cabinet if all that makes sense. Hopefully this question isn't too dumb... Not much cabinet building experience here. When you say left stile, you'd be custom building the cabinet of course, and instead of the cabinet looking like it does in my photo, the left face frame piece would continue all the way to the floor as opposed to stopping at the bottom of the cabinet? And then when you say left end extra 3/8", that would be the panel itself? You would be able to scribe that to the wall where it fits between the wile and the stile from the cabinet that continues to the floor? If both of those assumptions are correct, how would you attach the panel to the stile with everything already being finished? I didn't use a stile on my end panel, just edge banded it with iron on, but it bows very slightly at the bottom where I joined with biscuits two pieces Cause of the taller ceiling. I assume doing a stile would have helped with that bow? I ask all these questions cause I would love to learn how to do this stuff more, and even though we don't get the chance to work with high end cabinetry often at all I still want to know how it's done to be able to make cheap stuff look a little nicer. Also want to build cabinets for my next house... But I might ask more questions about that later.

 

[Leo G]

In this kitchen the refer cab needed to be 1" from the ceiling as were all the uppers. The cabinet was 96 1/2" tall. I made two sides, a FF and a deck & top. I brought it over flat packed and assembled it on site.

I installed the lower to the right of the refer cab first. Then setup the right side of the refer cab with shims to be plumb and level. Drew the scribe lines for the floor the wall wasn't required on this side. Then setup the left side and again did the scribe lines for the floor and wall. Cut the scribe with a jigsaw using a downcut blade, finished it off with a belt sander. Assembled the cabinet. Top and deck were put in using pocket screws. The deck screws were in the refrigerator area and the top screws were on top of the plywood. Biscuits were used for alignment. Lifter the FF with the top and deck on into a vertical position and installed one side. Again biscuits and pocket screws. Same for the other side. Then installed the back which only covers the upper cabinet area.

Put the cabinet into place and used pocket screws to hold the sides to the oak floor. This is actually enough to hold the cabinet in place after it's screwed to the adjacent cabinets. But I also put a pair of screws through the 1/2" back near the deck so the screws are hard to see in normal viewing.

The FF uses this treatment for the corners. When assembled it is nearly invisible and is great for onsite assembly. Glue it up and the cabinet can never come out :laughing:

 

[Gus Dering]

With the cabinet you have shown, I would call that "one legged refer box".

Those don't have any trouble tilting in place as long as there is a small gap for the crown to cover. So the whole thing can built and finished as a unit and sent out whole. The "panel" as you call it, is the "finished left end" in my terms. It is glued to the left stile in the shop. It will have a little extra length and width for scribing, just like you did.

Leo's showing a different circumstance. A "2 legged refer box" with a small gap at the ceiling. Chances are he couldn't tip that box up in the room if it shipped as one piece. In those cases we do similar things, but the jist is that the legs are detachable so you can get the assembly in place without cutting a hole in the ceiling or floor. The latter is a lesson you learn fast :whistling

Nice looking work, Leo

 

[Xtrememtnbiker]

Thank you both very much. I think my next one will be even better with your advice!

 

[B.D.R.]

Those guy's are gooood!!!! :thumbsup:

 

[Leo G]

With counters. It's been finished for a while. Still don't have pics with the knobs on. I'll get them eventually.