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Stop the butt joint between stud and put a one by behind and screw it back to it. Just fill in between the two studs. Set the one by back about a quarter inch or so.
 

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this should only be done on ceilings, and 20ga metal stud or track would be best. The main reason is to avoid cutting the boards.
 

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I have often wondered if you could attach some sort of thin shims or raised edges on a 1X behind the joint to make a slight bevel at the joint.
 

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Just and idea not sure if it would work!!!!!!!!!!
You could use 1x4 pine and a stacked dado blade on a table saw, just recess the middle of the 1x4 about 3/16" of an inch leaving a half inch on both sides. Attach to sheet that is already hung and hang the one next to it. Might want to use torque screws so the pine doesn't split. But Buttboard probably has a patent on doing something like this.
 

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Handheld power planer.

Remove the blades from the drum.

Cut blades in half and mitre the center. (going to be really hard to cut). Or have a knifemaker or blade sharpener cut you a new wide/mild "v" blade. (might be easier or cheaper than you imagine)

Redrill and tap the blades and drum.

Run the planer with the egde guide, or fab a new guide that holds both edges on your choice of 1x width pine.

Cost>? $50 - $500



Anyone here a patent attorney?
 

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I have often wondered if you could attach some sort of thin shims or raised edges on a 1X behind the joint to make a slight bevel at the joint.
I heard a guy talking about ripping some 1/4 paneling in 3/4" pieces, then attaching them to the outer edges of his 1x4 strips to make the butt turn inward. Never tried it as I don't find butt joints to be a big problem, but it might well work for what you are looking to do.
 

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I have heard that if you put a couple of drywall shims on the studs next to the one the edges land on, then when screw them to the middle stud it recesses the joint. Then filll it with mud and it will be level to the rest of the wall.
 

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I have heard that if you put a couple of drywall shims on the studs next to the one the edges land on, then when screw them to the middle stud it recesses the joint. Then filll it with mud and it will be level to the rest of the wall.
Most use two stips of paper pulled from the rack (tabs) per stud,,, but doesn't that actually make two raised spots on either side of the butt????
rather than actually making a true recessed butt joint? Would it not be faster, easier and better to just run a planer up the desired stud a cpl of times to redess it, and then just break it there???
 

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Buttboard™ Drywall Backer

Perfectly flat walls and ceilings are finally possible with Buttboard. This innovative product pulls back the edges of the cut end of the drywall creating a tapered edge, that can now be finished as a standard tapered joint. The result is a perfectly flat wall. Buttboard installs easily with drywall screws. In-House testing has shown that the tapered edge becomes permanent and will not release or cause cracks in the seam.
Available in Skid Quantities: 35 Boxes/420 Pieces
Installation
Watch our informational Buttboard video Here
 

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Well I have to say ,, Ya look pretty good sitting there pickin that banjo Captain,, but it looks like your girl is fixin to wack you with a skillet. I see Kirk is still the same, Kirk there is no way I'm going to fiddle around shimmin studs just to gain a recesse .
 

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Well I have to say ,, Ya look pretty good sitting there pickin that banjo Captain,, but it looks like your girl is fixin to wack you with a skillet. I see Kirk is still the same, Kirk there is no way I'm going to fiddle around shimmin studs just to gain a recesse .
Well thank ya now,,,, yeah she gets a bit frustrated at times, when I'm learning a new lick. Know how to tell if a banjo player is at the front door??? The knocking gets louder and faster !!!
 
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