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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hey guys, this could be a dumb question:laughing: On my truck I have a class 3 reciever, which is rated at 600lbs tounge weight 6000lbs pulling or with a weight distributer its 800lbs tounge and 12000lbs pulling. So basicly if I pull a loaded trailer weighing 7000lbs with no weight distribution its fine since the reciever will really pull 12000lbs? Can anyone explain these rating more? There has been so many trailer accidents around here latley, I always try to be real safe. I guess I should add, the hitch is an aftermarket it didn't come on the truck.


Thanks, Dave
 

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Hey guys, this could be a dumb question:laughing: On my truck I have a class 3 reciever, which is rated at 600lbs tounge weight 6000lbs pulling or with a weight distributer its 800lbs tounge and 12000lbs pulling. So basicly if I pull a loaded trailer weighing 7000lbs with no weight distribution its fine since the reciever will really pull 12000lbs? Can anyone explain these rating more? There has been so many trailer accidents around here latley, I always try to be real safe. I guess I should add, the hitch is an aftermarket it didn't come on the truck.


Thanks, Dave

We really need to know your trucks GVWR and the payload capacity and what weight the trailer is your towing. If you use a weight distribution hitch then you can go over your truck recomended Payload rateing as it transfers some of the weight back into the trailer.

A 7000lb trailer would need a 10% tounge weight minimum so 700lbs would put you over your reciever rateings. If you used a weight distribution hitch then more weight can be towed as the extra tounge weight will be transfered back to the trailer.
 

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Something to consider, a F150 will pull a heavy trailer around no problem. I have a 2000 F150 and I know it will pull almost any trailer around. I also have a 2003 F250 diesel with electric brake controler. The diesel will pull anything and stop anything. The F150 will pull almost anything but the stopping is the issue. Be safe and use a truck that has the braking power to stop what you towing safely. Even though the truck will tow a heavy trailer doesn't mean you can tow it safe and stop safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you guys for all the info, thanks bob for the vids. Well I guess I'll just keep my hauling to 6000lbs and under for now until I upgrade the reciever or maybe even a f350 SRW diesel:whistling


Dave
 

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Hey Pittsburgh,

I was pouring concrete in two different locations in a small town a few weeks ago. This town has intersections with humps in them, and the water drains on through the intersection. My helper was in the truck with me and we had the dump trailer on and were going over a hump and into the trough. He said, "big bump ahead" and then there was a big bang.

The receiver was held on my F250 with four big bolts. The rear two had snapped and the trailer was dragging on the receiver, which was on the ground. I jacked it up and left it and we did our second pour and I had it repaired the next day. They welded the heck out of it this time.

So get a good receiver and make sure it is attached securely. I was towing up to 6 tons in the dump trailer, plus the weight of the trailer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Cleveman, thats crazy! Yup I deffinetly don't want to skimp on a reciever, when I look at mine now thats what gets me all there is, is four bolts holding the thing on.


Dave
 

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Are they Grade 8 bolts? If not maybe swap em out for greater peace of mind.
8 aint really upto much either. you want at least 10's and if you can get them 12.9's. I use 12.9''s on a lot of kit and so far so good. Shear strength of 12.9's is up there and you would probabley pull the threads before you sheared the bolt.
 
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