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hack of all trades
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
What's the best tool to ream conduit? I've been using my wire strippers to ream the inside but I'm thinking about picking up a klein hand or drill reamer. Any recommendations? Is it really that crucial to ream the outside when it's going into a fitting? I've checked many fittings after attached and the outside burrs don't affect the inside of the raceway.
 

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Goin' Down in Flames....
Highwayman
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I have both of these. I tend to use the screwdriver one more, because it reams both sides at once. One motion instead of two.

I don't know if someone would make a big argument that your electrical installaton will undoubtably fail if you don't ream the outside, but I don't spend a hell of alot of time pondering it. I just ream the damn thing.


http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/c...ose-pliers/conduit-locknut-and-reaming-pliers



http://www.kleintools.com/catalog/c...tools/conduit-fitting-and-reaming-screwdriver


Sorry, can't get fvking pics to show up. :wallbash:
 

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hack of all trades
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ill probably get the klein hand tool since I hate having to constantly switch out bits on my drill/drivers. Although I say the outside burrs probably wont affect the wire, it still pisses me off to install pipe that doesnt have clean edges. My old lineman's worked well for 2 part EMT reaming, but my new ones dont work for the outsides.
 

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Ill probably get the klein hand tool since I hate having to constantly switch out bits on my drill/drivers. Although I say the outside burrs probably wont affect the wire, it still pisses me off to install pipe that doesnt have clean edges. My old lineman's worked well for 2 part EMT reaming, but my new ones dont work for the outsides.
I have a few of those Klein reamers and they arn't great, the end of you pliers works just as well. The amount of reaming required depends on how you cut the pipe.
 

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With clean square cuts with say a port-a-band or sawzall the klein style reamers tend to work real well and fast if you have a lot of pipe to run. I like that it doubles as my emt fitting screwdriver. Assuming you are running. 1/2"-1". Most linesmen pliers work well enough for "most people". In a pinch slip-joint pliers can do both inside and outside reaming.

If you are bad with a hacksaw or got forbid use one of those "emt aka tubing cutters" you are gonna need a half round file to take care of those burrs.

And while the interior of the raceway is most important to the electrical installation, workmanship and personal safety should play important roles too. Nothing worse than a sharp edge of a pipe or piece of strut. It screams unprofessional if visible on a pipe rack, and you'll scream when you cut your hand installing it.

I personally would never install a price of conduit and not file the end, outside and inside of the cut or ream it with a reaming tool.
 

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I use a small pipe cutter. Run it around the EMT a couple of times then snap the pipe, no reamer needed. For short pieces, after scoring insert into end of vender handle and snap.

Tom
 

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hack of all trades
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I use a small pipe cutter. Run it around the EMT a couple of times then snap the pipe, no reamer needed. For short pieces, after scoring insert into end of vender handle and snap.

Tom
I'll try that. Definitely dont want to cut through all the way with a tube cutter. Flares the tube in like crazy. I normally cut with a hand hack saw. I've only worked with 1/2, 3/4, doing mostly residential and small commercial (cafe/restaurant)
 

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I'll try that. Definitely dont want to cut through all the way with a tube cutter. Flares the tube in like crazy. I normally cut with a hand hack saw. I've only worked with 1/2, 3/4, doing mostly residential and small commercial (cafe/restaurant)
A pipe cutter works great if the cutting wheel in new. If you snap it it needs almost no reaming, if you pinch it with a crappy cutter you may not be able to get a reamer in there.

When I'm piping a building I use a rigid pipe cutter, it takes very little reaming, no chamfering, cuts fast, the cut is perfectly square. I also have a greenlee EMT cutter and it works ok for 1/2" and 3/4" it can't do anything bigger. My philosophy is no one-trick-pony tools, therefor I never use it.
 

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Hair Splitter
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A pipe cutter works great if the cutting wheel in new. If you snap it it needs almost no reaming, if you pinch it with a crappy cutter you may not be able to get a reamer in there.

When I'm piping a building I use a rigid pipe cutter, it takes very little reaming, no chamfering, cuts fast, the cut is perfectly square. I also have a greenlee EMT cutter and it works ok for 1/2" and 3/4" it can't do anything bigger. My philosophy is no one-trick-pony tools, therefor I never use it.
Yeah, I have never liked pipe cutters. If you go to far you end up flaring the pipe and having to do some serious reaming.
 

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Yeah, I have never liked pipe cutters. If you go to far you end up flaring the pipe and having to do some serious reaming.
They make self adjusting cutters for rookies like you.
 

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A pipe cutter works great if the cutting wheel in new. If you snap it it needs almost no reaming, if you pinch it with a crappy cutter you may not be able to get a reamer in there.

When I'm piping a building I use a rigid pipe cutter, it takes very little reaming, no chamfering, cuts fast, the cut is perfectly square. I also have a greenlee EMT cutter and it works ok for 1/2" and 3/4" it can't do anything bigger. My philosophy is no one-trick-pony tools, therefor I never use it.
I was not clear enough, I do not use the EMT pipe cutter. Those things are terrible for cutting EMT.

I use a Rigid cutter for up to 1-1/4" black pipe.

If you go to far, just use the flip out reamer built into the cutter. One rotation and the pipe is cleaned and burr free.

Tom
 

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I run anywhere between 100-200 feet of EMT nearly every day. Sawzall with EMT short blade for the cuts, then a Klein reamer on every cut.

Quick, easy, fast, and done.
 
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