[PlainPainter]

Ok, say you come across a dirty filthy deck that hasn't been treated in 5 years. You take the time to clean it back to bare wood and then stain it.
Now this deck is in full sun and alot of traffic.

Next year - the stain has worn off on the steps a bit and took a beating from the sun. But it isn't the monster to clean anymore - how do you deal with a 1 year or 2 year old finish? Just spread on some deck brightener and powerwash and add another coat? Or do pressure washers strip the deck every year with deck-stripper before applying a fresh coat of new deck stain?

-PlainPainter

 

[Teetorbilt]

Generally if you pressure wash and stain it every year you should be fine.
I take care of 6 decks and it doesn't get much sunnier than here in So FL.

 

[PlainPainter]

So no need to completely strip the prior year's finish with a deck stripper?

-PlainPainter

 

[Mike Finley]

One of the reasons I like Penofin deck stains. The reapplications are ridiculously simple.

When it is time to put another coat on.

1) Wash with a mixture of Simple Green and water, use a deck brush, spray off with a hose.

2) Apply new coat of penofin.

 

[Bone Saw]

I would use a device called a garden sprayer, with another device called a spray nozzel, and use a neolitic cleaning agent

 

[neolitic]

I don't have no stinking agents :laughing:

 

[Ahren]

Ok, say you come across a dirty filthy deck that hasn't been treated in 5 years. You take the time to clean it back to bare wood and then stain it.
Now this deck is in full sun and alot of traffic.

Next year - the stain has worn off on the steps a bit and took a beating from the sun. But it isn't the monster to clean anymore - how do you deal with a 1 year or 2 year old finish? Just spread on some deck brightener and powerwash and add another coat? Or do pressure washers strip the deck every year with deck-stripper before applying a fresh coat of new deck stain?

-PlainPainter

No, you do not want to just put on some brightener. The deck must be properly cleaned of dirt and mold, and then brightened/ph balanced, or you will have problems.

And it is a bad idea to build layers of stain. If doing two coats of penetrating oil, it must be done "wet on wet". The first coat should not be allowed to dry before the second coat is applied. If you go over an already cured product with another coat, you are forming a film that will not penetrate and will peel.

Use a sodium percarbonate based cleaner and a pressure washer to remove dirt and mold. If the previous sealer was a penetrating oil, this should lift out pretty easily. If it was acrylic, all I can say is I'm sorry. I don't know why they even make that stuff. It peels after a few years, and is next to impossible to remove.

After the deck has been properly cleaned and thoroughly rinsed, use an oxalic acid based brightener. This will brighten it up like magic, and also ph balance the wood from the percarbonate treatment.

Then rinse, let dry, stain and enjoy!

Don't use any cleaner/brightener that contains bleach (sodium hypochlorite). This breaks down the lignin in the wood, and shortens it's life. Not to mention it is harsh on the environment.

I have started to add maintenance services for decks that I've built to my repertoire, and have studied up on the subject a little. I fully credit Ken from PressurePros for all my knowledge gained. He's been doing this for a while, and he knows his stuff. His Restore-A-Deck product that is a two part system that contains the chemicals described above. It is easy to use, and it works great. I've cleaned/sealed several decks with this stuff with very good success. (I'm not trying to spam, just relaying my experience.)

 

[Ahren]

BTW, Penofin is a pretty good product. The only beef I have with it is that it doesn't seem to last very long, especially on hardwoods. I've never heard anything about using Simple Green on it, sounds kind of scary to me. I don't know what kind of effect that would have on the wood, or whether it would throw the ph out of whack.

 

[deckman22]

I always strip, brightener, re-stain. A good stiff brush along with a stripper is all you need. Do not pressure wash soft wood decks like cedar/redwood/TP, it's not needed in most cases. I only use the pressure washer if someone has used behr's or another stain that is hard to get off. Unless you're skilled with a pressure washer you'll do more damage than good. Use a high quality stain like TWP, 100 series if you can get it. Otherwise Ken @ Pressure Pros has some new stain that looks really good. Woodzotic or something like that.

 

[Bone Saw]

cmon guys did you miss the joke, please tell me you did, good info btw:laughing:

 

[Ahren]

I always strip, brightener, re-stain. A good stiff brush along with a stripper is all you need. Do not pressure wash soft wood decks like cedar/redwood/TP, it's not needed in most cases. I only use the pressure washer if someone has used behr's or another stain that is hard to get off. Unless you're skilled with a pressure washer you'll do more damage than good. Use a high quality stain like TWP, 100 series if you can get it. Otherwise Ken @ Pressure Pros has some new stain that looks really good. Woodzotic or something like that.

Yes, you do have to be careful with a pressure washer, like you said. The unskilled can do some major damage in a hurry. I've used the W/Zotic on a few ipe decks this year, and it's very good looking stuff. I've tried Cabot ATO, Penofin, and Messemers in the past on ipe, and they didn't hold up so well. (I can't get TWP 100's here anymore. Haven't tried the 500's yet). I did the floor of my screened porch with W/zotic in the summer, and so far it's holding up very well. In the spring, I will check on the other projects.
I believe Ken is cooking up some more colors for Zotic for next season.

 

[John Hyatt]

This is probley a you Folks at home dont try this thing, However for the past 10 years or so I have used twp 100 series on ipe and every other kind of wood decking,and a few of the soft composite.

I build coats,one on top of the other,layers. I have found twp bonds to itself as well as the decking. I have no problems puting another coat of twp on the next day or the next month or the next year after a good cleaning with no stripping or prep at all.
My very own deck out back of Butler Manor has Massenramduba,bullet wood,decking/rail with2'' copper detail I put it in 6 years ago its just now showing signs of needing a recoat of finish. I did this by building coats,4 or so on the decking and 5+ on the cap rail. After the first coat had weathered 6 mo or so I did an oxalic acid wash then started building coats on the decking the rail system just got cleaned. The cap rail has a simi gloss look. No peeling,lifting,flaking,or sticki spots. The copper got the same twp finish and has no sign of green at all.

Keep in mind this is against all the directions on the can,as well as the twp site. There is in fact a twp corp office 20 miles from Butler we have talked about this with the result being what I am doing is impossible and defently not recomened. A twp Lady came over just to look and of course the next day said it could not be done that way.

Ken and I have gone around and around with the twp thing before with simular results. I only know what I have done on my project and a lot of Wallet's decks it deffently works for me. John

 

[Ahren]

I knew John was gonna pop up and reply!:laughing:

I for one will believe that you have had success with TWP 100's. But alas, the Weenie Greenies have made it a dead issue with me. Anything that I can get here can not be double coated. Too many solids, and not enough delicious VOC's.

 

[PressurePros]

John, I didn't get to call you and wish you Happy Holidays and Happy New Year. Sorry about that brutha.. hope all is well out there in mid country. John, when did we first start with the TWP debate on ipe? It feels like a decade ago. How's things over at the "'Web"? I haven't been there in ages.

Ahren, the Woodzotic line is expanding colors and I am working madcap with a chemist for a top of the line new oil based product that will work on all other species. Low VOC, high transoxide pirmentation content, excellent penetration, wet wood friendly, and should last longer than anything out there. Stay tuned on __________________ (you know where)

Commercial over.

 

[Ahren]

cmon guys did you miss the joke, please tell me you did, good info btw:laughing:

I did completely miss the joke.:laughing:

 

[John Hyatt]

HI Ya Ken!!! Man that site got completly taken over by the spamers,they just shut the thing down. Too bad I met some good Folks over there,most all are still with us over here and other places but the Grins we had.....Man A great Book could have been.......O Well. I am remembering that very sweet moderitor German Girl that would scold us,,,,Sigh....

Its still the same with me and twp,I have no reason to change. I did drift on over to the George side of town last year, he had some test blocks of ipe/garapa with your vodo stuff on them and I got to say they looked good probley a year old. Rightly so you having a twp guy on board!!! Sooooo Funny!!

You got some good stuff Ken Mon,,,Lets Go Get Em!!! J.

 

[neolitic]

cmon guys did you miss the joke, please tell me you did, good info btw:laughing:

I did completely miss the joke.:laughing:

Just tuned back in...
me too, but I've got a funny feeling
the joke's on me:laughing: