not all valley rafters are 6' long. and you don't always hit a rafter below. with trusses, they are even farther spaced out. there is no way unless there is blocking underneath you are hitting anything more than OSB or plywood to hold those in place. maybe you'd be ok but I always put a 2x10 or bigger on depends on the rafter size.

 

house finished.

If the rafters are longer than 6' or so I have always put blocking underneath the sheathing. I am going to try next one with a 2x6 valley board under the whole valley though, seems like a good idea.

do you guys cut it to a bevel? or a square edge.

 

We always rip the bevel on them...They make things work so much better and seems like you get a straighter valley.

 

Its a waste of time to put a bevel on blind valley sleeper board you gain nothing but self satisfaction.

Unless your getting paid by the hour then I say bevel away:thumbsup:

 

I can’t imagine needing to bevel the sleeper. I calculate the sleeper length at the shoulder, or what would be the short point of the sleeper bevel. If you’re cutting from between a common at the bottom to the ridge, the effective run of the valley, and the jacks, can be found on the ridge’s layout. Precut them and snap them in.

 

Square edge. I'd be inclined to tell you to go larger than a 2x6. We use 2x8 or larger., depends on pitch. If we don't have large, long lumber we sometimes double them up, 2 2x6's or 2x8+2x6. so you have a nice wide area for the seat cut.

 

Designed and built this coach house for myself. Should've taken pictures during the framing. Roof was a combination of trusses, girders and TJI joists. Porch roof was hand cut 2 by 12 clear pine to get the curve. Corner joist was 2 by 12 with 2 by 6 glued on top to get the right curve.

Front of coach house can be seen in pic below.

Bought this "new" stone house unfinished on in the inside. Put a curved porch roof on the front using jack trusses I designed as the hand cut would've taken too long plus I wouldnt be able to put lights in the ceiling. Bottom chord was scissored giving the illusion it was hand made with t&g pine then rough cut 1x2 strapped to the underside of the trusses securing the t&g permanently. It was a nightmare to do the flashing, found a guy who could do lead flashing which capped it off perfectly.



Yes this was my own house.

Coach house was large enough for 4 cars. Inside was all insulated and instead of plaster, I used half inch ply and had my collection of metal signs and license plates screwed to it. Installed a wood burning stove as well which allowed me to keep it a toasty 70 degrees inside when it was -20 outside. Loft area was large enough for a pool table and had a retractable staircase inside. This allowed me the full use of the garage floor. The rear door was large enough to drive my lawn tractor in and out, but built a matching shed just for the tractor after having to deal with grass stains on the concrete.


Crap, after posting all this, I find out I cant post links to my pictures until I hit 15 posts.... I'll be back to edit after I hit that mark. If you want to see the pics, just pm me

 

I started a little ranch the other day,


]

 

I started a little ranch the other day,


]

Nice. I'd like to see a better shot of that siding. Is that T&G?

 

This a friends pool house I am working on

 

It is "Smart lap" 12" om that front wall. We usually call it speed lap.I will get some better pictures.I wanted to get step by step photos to show how I do stuff , but I got kind of busy last week

 

Very impressive work and pictures by everyone !! :thumbsup:

 

That pool house

 

A deck I just finished

 

Starting a pretty extensive remodel tommorrow. The setting of this house is amazzing, the pictures dont do it justice at all. Its right at the base of the cascades.

 

a few more befores

 

Here's one i've been working on, nothing too spectacular but has an awesome view of Alki Pt. and downtown Seattle

 

What are the orange marks for? Those shear wall ID's for the inspector?

 

And a crazy set of winders

 

Shear inspection yesterday, windows monday, someone better get crackin on some Tyvek. :whistling

 

living here in chicagoland i always wonder how carpenters in other parts of the country go about wrapping a house after the walls are up.

spent a lot of time taping seams as an apprentice and i would dread wrapping an entire house!

 

living here in chicagoland i always wonder how carpenters in other parts of the country go about wrapping a house after the walls are up.

spent a lot of time taping seams as an apprentice and i would dread wrapping an entire house!

Make the siders do it!:thumbsup:

 

Here are a few pics of a chapel roof we framed. Think it was in the 30's and raining almost every day.

Steel I beams were 5 1/2" wide and about 40' in the air over concrete slab. Loads of fun.

The last pics are of the reccesses in the lid designed for art work. It took forever. Pulling a string line with the lift alone took about 20 minutes. Now you could do the same thing with a laser in a few seconds....

 

Finished product:

 

I remember a mason who would charge the GC for removing our nails. I probably remove about 90% of my own, buy I know my employees leave a bunch.

 

back charging the other trades for stuff like that is such a dick move. one day you're going to ask that same trade for help with something, or you're going to end up screwing them over somehow and then what?

 

heres some shots of the 2800 sq ft were building, built on top of a original foundation, the original plan was for a complete reno

 

better yet, heres a pic of me looking down at a plate for the 2800 sq ft. then still standing in the same spot looking forward at the complete reno we started digging for on wednesday across the path

 

all i can say is holy crap thats alot of 2x