Option A is probably the most impractical of the four.

 

Why do you think so?

 

an engineer is not likely to approve anything with a hinge joint.

likely need studs from bottom plate to top of new wall.

what about your footings?

people must own this place outright in a location with ridiculous prices...

 

Sounds like option A then.
What about the footings?

 

Tell them to get a different house! That sounds like a seriously expensive project.

What about just vaulting a section or two? And doing an addition if they have some room..?


-Caleb

John 3:16[emoji120][emoji119][emoji91]

 

Why would you not tear it down?

 

I probably would suggest tearing it down if the exterior was a cheap siding or a siding that needed to be replaced. By just removing drywall (which will already be needed to a degree for plumbing, electrical, etc), the brick exterior will be maintained.

 

When we did this on a large project a few years ago, the architect had us do option c. Worked fine, just be ready to hear a lot of complaining from plumber

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Thanks! The plumbing is actually one of the reasons I had this as a less preferred option. How was it handled?
I take it you were required to use a single LVL beam for each straight run instead of link pieces together. Is that right?

 

He found interior walls to run the waste lines down, just made it seem like a bigger issue than it was.

I'm sure there were some runs that may have been pieced together, I'll look later tonight and see if I have any pics. Like you, we left the brick facade and went from 8' to 9'

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

Thanks! That would be greatly appreciated

 

If that were uo here, and the originsl walls are 2X4, I'd consider making it a double wall system, or seeing if strongbacks would be good enough to counter the hinging.

 

Interesting. So with the inner wall being 10', I would still bring the original wall up to the same height, right? Maybe with the short extension wall or something.

The inner wall would be the structural wall, so the walls on the second level would offset since they would sit on the first level inner wall? Or would the second level walls need to be double also?

 

Lower all the light switches instead.

 

Wouldn't work - they're doing away with light switches entirely.

 

What size will the new ceiling/floor joists be?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

2x12,16" o.c.

 

Leg-Thru to the bearing floor truss might solve the problem, if it's possible. A bearing leg would extend below the floor truss to the existing wall. May require some more that 3.5" to resist lateral loads, however you have 8" or so out to the face of the brick to strengthen the leg.

I'd call a truss manufacture and see if it's possible. Would solve a crap butt load of problems, save a lot of labor too.

 

Thanks, but I can't visualize this.

 

1st. Picture: 2' tall LVL with joists hanging from it. I do not prefer this option.

2nd. Picture: Short wall or truss with floor joists hanging from a ledger board.

3rd. Picture: Balloon frame your new wall from the top of existing wall to bottom of new roof trusses. Hang floor/ceiling joists to height from either a ledger board or from vertical studs in layout. Add fire stop and blocking as necessary.

These options are still not great, but they reduce/ eliminate one hinge point on the wall. I'd still be concerned about movement and would want 9' interior partition walls to have lateral strapping to help reduce the exterior hinge.

I think a couple of these are your listed options. I actually prefer the last option if you must keep existing wall.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

1st. Picture: 2' tall LVL with joists hanging from it. I do not prefer this option.

2nd. Picture: Short wall or truss with floor joists hanging from a ledger board.

3rd. Picture: Balloon frame your new wall from the top of existing wall to bottom of new roof trusses. Hang floor/ceiling joists to height from either a ledger board or from vertical studs in layout. Add fire stop and blocking as necessary.

These options are still not great, but they reduce/ eliminate one hinge point on the wall. I'd still be concerned about movement and would want 9' interior partition walls to have lateral strapping to help reduce the exterior hinge.

View attachment 461826

I think a couple of these are your listed options. I actually prefer the last option if you must keep existing wall.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Thanks for the drawings!
Yes, these are similar to the options I listed, but better executed. I also prefer the last option (my (D)), but I actually thought it would get me laughed out of the forum.

 

....

 

Got it! Thanks for the drawings!
Yeah, this would definitely be a time saver.

 

I think another important question is what area in the nation are we talking?....
In my area, we likely could get away with balloon framing the upper wall.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

This is in Maryland

 

Couldn’t you do option 1 and sister new joists but only go as far as possible before hitting any plumbing? This is obviously not as strong as going from bottom plate to the new top plate but it eliminates the hinge effect and keeps you from having to rerun all the plumbing and electric on the exterior walls.

 

Contrary to my original post, there actually isn't any plumbing in the exterior walls.

To your point though, I think it should work, but I am more interested in what the more experienced pros have to say about it.

 

Is building a second house onsite an option? Then leave current house as a guest house. OP did say "Ranch House" which could be a style, or could be situated on a "ranch" with a lot of acreage.

 

Thanks. Not an option.

 

I’ve actually been a licensed contractor for 10 years, on this site for 5 years and wouldn’t need to come ask how it was done. I’ve decided to post 4 times in those 5 years and one of them was to try to help you, aka your welcome you cocky douche.

 

I don't think he was referring to you as a non pro or experienced, but rather meant he was posting on the site in general in attempts to gain more information.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

If I misinterpreted then I apologize.

 

No problem

 

I forgot to look for pics the other day. I only had the 2 of the powerbeams going on, last pic is the little skirt detail to cover the brick

 

What's the second photo? You build an addition off to the side as well?

 

Looks good.

But,
All that snow and you needed a fridge?:laughing:

 

Lol, yes?

I'm pretty sure it got scrapped, we probably didn't have the dolly there yet. That was 4 years ago, I don't fully remember.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

 

You could talk to a truss manufacturer and see if they could design a truss with a leg on it to bring your ceiling height up. I’ve never seen it done but it might be worth investigating as it would be a really simple solution