im trying to find the best way to cut big radiuses on bandsaw (100 foot +)im looking at buying bandsaw .wondering if there are any product sugestion. layout of of radius cuts,besides making a table 100 foot long with radius point. ive heard there is a way to do big radiuses with a type of pin system on a smaller table.im usally cutting radius in 4x4,4x6,2x6 or doubled up plywood.any suggestions or knowledge would be helpful.
concrete life
There could be many reasons why not to use a designed system. If he's doing only one wall making them could be much less cost. Designed systems aren't cheap, I doubt gates is going to roll you a 200' diameter arch in 13,000LF of perforated tube steel and not make you buy it all. It's going to take at least 2-3 weeks to build and erect these forms anyway, so one guy cutting strong backs for 2 weeks, 80hrs, is a drop in the bucket. Plus there are other things to consider as far as ties go, water treatment plants are finicky projects.
I don't know about you guys, but if it's going to cost me the same vs. steel, and not push out my schedule, I'd rather keep my carpenters busy then some cad guy running 10 robots in a factory somewhere.... No offense intended.
I don't know about you guys, but if it's going to cost me the same vs. steel, and not push out my schedule, I'd rather keep my carpenters busy then some cad guy running 10 robots in a factory somewhere.... No offense intended.
If you look at those forms they are adjustable. you don't need to bend steel to make them work.
Sometimes it's cheaper to rent than build something from scratch. Why would they produce specialized equipment if it wasn't needed.
I am a great metal fabricator, does that mean I am going to try to build a bobcat from scratch? Its just an option to look at as far as total cost vs time. I know there are times when I would like to spend my time where it is going to be the most profitable.
If you were going to pour a basement would you try to build all the forms yourself? And if you were going to do so, wouldn't you make sure that it was worth doing so?
Sometimes it's cheaper to rent than build something from scratch. Why would they produce specialized equipment if it wasn't needed.
I am a great metal fabricator, does that mean I am going to try to build a bobcat from scratch? Its just an option to look at as far as total cost vs time. I know there are times when I would like to spend my time where it is going to be the most profitable.
If you were going to pour a basement would you try to build all the forms yourself? And if you were going to do so, wouldn't you make sure that it was worth doing so?
What i said last night
Man you guys should re read what the guy is cutting there only 8 ft long pieces with a 100 ft radius. That just barely an arc in 8 ft. Easily done with a skillsaw faster than a band saw.
What i meant to say
Whoops must of had a whiskey last night.:laughing: Buy easily done with a skillsaw i was talking about the op cutting plywood as stated and i meant faster WITH a band saw and jig. If you go to http://www.timbertools.com/Products/Dario-SN33-wood-bandsaw.html watch the video, pretty impressive saw but very costly. But man does he whip out some lumber. Before i got an oliver band saw i came up with mounting casters on a band saw to move around the workpiece for
corbels and decorative beam ends.
You could rig what you need up with a jig and be super fast no need to have a caster set up as your cutting 4x4 and 4x6 jig it and rip it. I still would check on rented still forms way faster easier and safer to use.
Man you guys should re read what the guy is cutting there only 8 ft long pieces with a 100 ft radius. That just barely an arc in 8 ft. Easily done with a skillsaw faster than a band saw.
What i meant to say
Whoops must of had a whiskey last night.:laughing: Buy easily done with a skillsaw i was talking about the op cutting plywood as stated and i meant faster WITH a band saw and jig. If you go to http://www.timbertools.com/Products/Dario-SN33-wood-bandsaw.html watch the video, pretty impressive saw but very costly. But man does he whip out some lumber. Before i got an oliver band saw i came up with mounting casters on a band saw to move around the workpiece for
)
corbels and decorative beam ends. You could rig what you need up with a jig and be super fast no need to have a caster set up as your cutting 4x4 and 4x6 jig it and rip it. I still would check on rented still forms way faster easier and safer to use.
Just like some others have said just go with a modular form system like Dokahttp://www.doka.com/doka/en_global/products/wall/timberbeam/circular_h20/index.php
But I am pretty sure unless you’re using some special mix that you will need to have some accelerater add mix in your mix design or you will have to much liquid head on that pour.
But I am pretty sure unless you’re using some special mix that you will need to have some accelerater add mix in your mix design or you will have to much liquid head on that pour.
This thread is full of non readers. First off the OP said 100' radius. So double that # you got there Nac.
Second, Scrape, those "adjustable" strongbacks are rolled to the proper arc first, read the pdf posted. The adjusters don't change the arch much if any.
Third, he won't need an add mixture because they will need 3-4 pumps and even pumping at a normal rate of 5 concrete trucks an hour(9.5yards per truck) per pump. it'll still take 10 hours to pour. If each pump makes a 4' lift that is 150' long or so, by the time it come back to do the next lift the first 4' are set already.
The problem isn't renting an circular gang forming system. The problem is renting a 200' diameter system. if it was anythign less then 100' it would probably be easy and cheap to rent. Because they are much more common. But like I said, if they have to build it for you, they'll charge ya 2/3 of the cost just to rent for half a year or so. So this guy is just exploring his options.
Second, Scrape, those "adjustable" strongbacks are rolled to the proper arc first, read the pdf posted. The adjusters don't change the arch much if any.
Third, he won't need an add mixture because they will need 3-4 pumps and even pumping at a normal rate of 5 concrete trucks an hour(9.5yards per truck) per pump. it'll still take 10 hours to pour. If each pump makes a 4' lift that is 150' long or so, by the time it come back to do the next lift the first 4' are set already.
The problem isn't renting an circular gang forming system. The problem is renting a 200' diameter system. if it was anythign less then 100' it would probably be easy and cheap to rent. Because they are much more common. But like I said, if they have to build it for you, they'll charge ya 2/3 of the cost just to rent for half a year or so. So this guy is just exploring his options.
Nothing of that size is cheap. And I could be wrong about how the gates system works. The diagram shows the adjuster mounted in the center of the steel tubing. I would have to see it in person.
But now I have a good conversation to speak to my uncle about next time I talk to him. Either way, serious concrete being poured. I hope it goes well for the op!
Also It says his trade is concrete formwork, so maybe he is just building a form set for someone else to pour the project. I guess my idiot ass didn't ask him.
But now I have a good conversation to speak to my uncle about next time I talk to him. Either way, serious concrete being poured. I hope it goes well for the op!
Also It says his trade is concrete formwork, so maybe he is just building a form set for someone else to pour the project. I guess my idiot ass didn't ask him.
I know waht you mean about all the extra charges. That is something you need to square away with your salesman before you rent, a lot of times they will wave to cleaning charge if you take about it before but lost parts are always a problem so you have to saty on top of it. The atlas system i have never used but have used Doka straight form work and it is great onlt 2ties and 2 clamps per form so a lot les to lose. I have never used ther circuler system before but seems about the samee just with ajustable turnbucles to get the radius you need. I know they will crete free shop drawings and panel list for you . I lloks like a short waler and no strong backs just props.
This might be a solution, http://frontlineengineering.com.au/ a bandsaw contour cutting device. Never used it myself yet, but it looks like you can make a template, and push your stock thru riding on the template. Click that "find out more" and there's a video link.
still alot of work for the amount you're talking about! I was going to say call them and get some more Info but I see they're in Australia ..
still alot of work for the amount you're talking about! I was going to say call them and get some more Info but I see they're in Australia ..
You can cut a fairly tight radius with a 7 1/4" blade with the right teqnique. I used to cut fireplace mantle arches out of full 1 1 /4" thick pine fairly often on the job site.
The procedure went something like this:
1) Do a radius arc line on the workpiece, either by bending a thin fillet to arc specs, or with a trammel.
2) Make the 1st cut about 1/2" deep, but keep the cut about 1/8" on the offall side of arc.
3) Repeat step 2 untill you end up with a 3/8" or so trough behind the finish arc line.
4) Once you have room for the backside (rear of saw blade) the blade will not bind in the cut, leaving you to only be concerend with placement of the leading edge of the blade. That way you can make a clean accurate finish curve cut.
5) Grind out bad bumps, followed up with a belt sander, followed by an offall arch sanding block maybe 10" long, followed by loose sandpaper by hand.
I could do a 5' or so arc like this in about 20-30 minutes or so, ready to stain. It does take some skill to guide a saw that acurately free hand, but after 20 years of framing, I found it fairly easy. Most of my guys could do it, but the results were mixed.
The trick is to keep a minimal amount of the blade in the cut, along with making room for the back side of the blade.
Joe
The procedure went something like this:
1) Do a radius arc line on the workpiece, either by bending a thin fillet to arc specs, or with a trammel.
2) Make the 1st cut about 1/2" deep, but keep the cut about 1/8" on the offall side of arc.
3) Repeat step 2 untill you end up with a 3/8" or so trough behind the finish arc line.
4) Once you have room for the backside (rear of saw blade) the blade will not bind in the cut, leaving you to only be concerend with placement of the leading edge of the blade. That way you can make a clean accurate finish curve cut.
5) Grind out bad bumps, followed up with a belt sander, followed by an offall arch sanding block maybe 10" long, followed by loose sandpaper by hand.
I could do a 5' or so arc like this in about 20-30 minutes or so, ready to stain. It does take some skill to guide a saw that acurately free hand, but after 20 years of framing, I found it fairly easy. Most of my guys could do it, but the results were mixed.
The trick is to keep a minimal amount of the blade in the cut, along with making room for the back side of the blade.
Joe
Oops, I mis-spoke!
To cut a finish inside radius, you do the finsh cut with the tail end of the blade, so it cuts on the down side. On an outside radius, you do the finsh cut with the leading edge of blade.
It's been about 18 years since I've had to do this, & I simply forgot some of the details!
Joe
To cut a finish inside radius, you do the finsh cut with the tail end of the blade, so it cuts on the down side. On an outside radius, you do the finsh cut with the leading edge of blade.
It's been about 18 years since I've had to do this, & I simply forgot some of the details!
Joe
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