why not lay it out, use a string tied to the centerpoint. Mark it and cut with a hand held saw?

I guess the question doesn't give me a good mental picture of what your trying to accomplish

 

I do that steel tape thing from a center point now and cut by hand with a templet and skill saw.im looking at needing 1700 pieces at 8 foot long with radius cut.thats why i was thinking industrial bandsaw with guide on a smaller table.i need efficient mass production.it would take to long with skill saw

 

There are a couple of ways. IMO, the easiest is to take a 100' steel tape measure out on a quiet dead end road and quickly lay it out there.

If you have excel, here's a calculator.

If you are good at trig, you can easily figure it out, but it will take time. If you don't know trig....well, I would just confuse the hell out of you.

Do you have a CAD program? You could lay it out on that also rather easy, but it will take a little time and effort.

 

There are a couple of ways. IMO, the easiest is to take a 100' steel tape measure out on a quiet dead end road and quickly lay it out there.

Exactly!

Med. to large Parking lots work really well too

 

If you don't need it to be the exact radius, but just a pleasing curve instead, you could bend a piece of flexible hardwood to act as a saw guide for cutting a nice clean curved cut, using a circ saw. See the 15th + pics on this page,
http://woodsshop.com/Gazebo_Kits/How_Build_Gazebo/How_To_Build_Gazebo.htm
the hardwood is the gray piece. Make sure you continue the bent guide's curve around past your actual end points so the curve carries thru.

If it needs to be the exact radius, you could plot out the points with cad and bend the guide to them .. get pretty close anyway.

We might have other ideas if we know what you're actually making. How long is the piece?

 

I agree with Warren a 100ft radius is a very slight radius and could be cut with a circular saw without binding. What kind of project is this?:blink:

 

poured in place concrete walls, gang style,2 foot to 3 foot thick,35 foot tall,its for a waiste water treatment plant.friggin huge.my cad program says its about a 2 inch bow over 8 foot span.oh yeah,and they want to pour all at once in 4 foot lifts

 

what thickness is the material, if your just cutting plywood or something you could stack them. Have a template made out of material of your choice to mark them. And just cut them with a skill saw, 1700 of them, even with a band saw thats gonna take a while. I would also check into water jets. Or some one lookin for some work who has a router. That would go super quick!!!

If I were going to use a band saw, I would pick one up that was capible of cutting a thick amound of material. then I would build a table that had ball bearing style rollers on the top of it. (If I needed to do a bunch, and wanted to spend some money. Just google ball bearing rollers. That should make a nice table that will allow a full sheet of plywood to roll around. Build that right and you should be able to clamp several sheets together and still be able to roll it around.:thumbsup:

 

what thickness is the material, if your just cutting plywood or something you could stack them. Have a template made out of material of your choice to mark them. And just cut them with a skill saw, 1700 of them, even with a band saw thats gonna take a while. I would also check into water jets. Or some one lookin for some work who has a router. That would go super quick!!!

If I were going to use a band saw, I would pick one up that was capible of cutting a thick amound of material. then I would build a table that had ball bearing style rollers on the top of it. (If I needed to do a bunch, and wanted to spend some money. Just google ball bearing rollers. That should make a nice table that will allow a full sheet of plywood to roll around. Build that right and you should be able to clamp several sheets together and still be able to roll it around.:thumbsup:

No offense to you, but I can tell you this is realistically not going to happen. He would have to have a BS that had a 60" throat to truly cut out a perfect circle - not going to happen. You would have to build a massive turret lathe base principle at a massive 95' x 95' ,can not but up to the BS table, a center point assembly, massive strapping on the face to join the material and 10,000 recessed ball bearings on the field of the table to glide the massive structure. I don't think so-not cost prohibitive and unrealistic.
Brian

 

Well that made the Carpenter's forum go quiet for a while.:laughing:

 

Could this help cutting with a circular saw?

http://www.arcusblade.com/woodsystem.html

 

Information???

I think if we had more information on "why" and "what" he is constructing that would be of great help -I think it was framer dude that suggested the CAD solution-that would be the easiest method, slap a grid on the material in cad, if 4x8 material ,don't know, just guessing (CAD) transfer your measurements at specific points from the CAD layout on your material and connect your points- pretty simple,fairly accurate, and would save you a lot of unnecessary labor in layout, and depending on the material- you would definitely be able to use a circular saw with this large of a radius ,, but there is not enough INFO-- can you elaborate?
Brian

 

Maybe you have checked in on this, but have you thought about looking at symons or any other systems? They make forms that sound like they would fit your application.

Also, if it were me, I would check into how much it would cost to do it out of steel. A metal shop shouldn't charge that much to roll that radius into angle iron to back the face of a form. Just a thought.

 

Tin has it right with the template and the pins and a table on the exit side of the BS so the template is bearing against the pins from start to finish.
If your surprised that they want it poured in one go then maybe Scrapecc has it right on looking into a system.The one that comes to mind is Peri I know they hire their form work out so it might be worth while just giving them a bell to see what it costs.
In the link I've posted you can see what their products look like.O.K I know its all in German but in pic No 7 you can see the size of the turnbuckle they use to get the Radi. Google them I Know they are in the US.
Another name is Doka also worth a try the one's I have used is Wenzal bit I don't think they are in the US. http://www.peri.de/ww/de/produkte.c...te.cfm/fuseaction/diashow/product_ID/23/imgpath/3_10_grv_titel.jpg/app_id/2.cfm

 

Well, Are you refering to somthing like this - http://www.contractortalk.com/f48/radius-concrete-forms-pics-37295/

 

Pound a nail in a parking lot (black top) measure/pull your tape out 100' - lay your (plywood?) 4x8 sheet (or 20 sheets all butted together if need be) down and swing the arc of the radius thru/across the plywood using the tape measure (dummy end hooked to the nail) and a pencil (at the 100' mark on the tape) holding it at 90" to your work and then go cut it on your saw - simple geometry dude - you don't need cad programs and/or pins & template crap or any other horse S*** these guys are talking about here - "carpentry 301 dude" - 3rd yr apprentice's know this stuff - that's how we do it in the field. Will take you 10 mins total and it's a no brainer.

Works the same on sheet metal with a scratch awl. Also - this will work for any sort of "template" that you need for forms or whatever.

Do as you will though! :whistling

 

simple geometry dude - you don't need cad programs and/or pins & template crap or any other horse S*** these guys are talking about here - "carpentry 301 dude" - 3rd yr apprentice's know this stuff - that's how we do it in the field. Will take you 10 mins total and it's a no brainer.

Yo, dude. 1700 pieces?!? The church elders are going to be kicking your butt out of there long before you're done. :laughing:

I'll go along with the parking lot to make a template, but ideally you'd turn these things out in the comfort of your shop. And no matter where you're doing the cutting, templates and pins will speed up production tremendously. :thumbsup:

 

Lets chill out guys and look at this logically the only information that we have comes in post No10 in which the op states that he is trying to build a wall 36' high by 3' thick.Well for guys in the field I would like to know how many of you have built a wall this size?
Not a lot I'd say,so if you want to get an idea of this size look at the 1st pic in the link I posted.It's more than twice the hight and more than twice dia thats one hell of a wall.So this IJMO and I could be way out but I dont think I'm, the op is not trying to build a platform this size.
He gives the diamentions because he wants to form his waling's and these would be cut as cords of 8' span and 2" rise, to mark this out is not 3rd year apprentice stuff but 1st year apprentice stuff.If you want to form a diameter of 200' in the field and then scribe it out go ahead.A production method would be to do this in the shop with 8' in front of the saw and 8'behind it.but then again what do I know?
I know enough that my pants would go brown with the thought of the size of these walls
As a professional I would be calling in other professional to hire me the formwork(shutters)and sleep soundly in my bed. billy

 

You could do a 100' radius on a 2" x 8' long pc of stock. It only has a deflection of 1 5/8" over the 8' span.

 

that would give you a 60' radius..

 

I calculate the arc height of about 15/16ths of an inch over 96 inches. Not much curve to that.

A skilsaw and a bottle of whiskey should be enough to getter dun...

 

i calculate the arc height of about 15/16ths of an inch over 96 inches. Not much curve to that.

A skilsaw and a bottle of whiskey should be enough to getter dun...

102'-5 17/64"

 

With your 1700 pieces needed I'm guessing your using them as horizontal strongbacks and not walers right? There is roughly 628 LF of inside wall, and 647' or so more of outside wall. so 1700 * 8' = 13600lf of horizontal strongbacks. Gives ya about 10 for each side of the wall. That means you need inside and outside archs and a bandsaw could do both pretty easily in 4x material. Just a matter of how long it would take. May want to look into some of the rougher blades for a bandsaw that'll gnaw through the wood quicker.

I think the waterjet idea maybe cheaper if you can outsource it. May want to look into getting 4or6x8 lumber also and cutting the inside and outside archs at the same time. Saves alot of cuts.

 

Holy Sheet, I just calcd' out around 2050yards of mud, must be nice. Is the project in cali? Even if you guys dump 20+ trucks an hour with a couple pumps, it'll still take 10hours . Good luck.

 

Maybee i am off he said 100'Dx35'Hx2'-3'T(2'6" Avg) =314'1 15/16"x35'x2'6"=1018CY

 

Have you considered these,

Instead of going through all the hassle of trying to make radius forms couldn't you use this application????
Brian

 

I just can't believe some ppl are still thinking a skill saw. Even if you could do one every 2 min which is doubtful thats still almost 57 hours. And thats if you can put the sheet down, cut it, and move it for the next sheet in 2 min. That isn't gonna happen!

 

How do you plan on doing it. Crossing your arms and blinking your eyes?

You will still have to move from sheet to sheet to do it. Even if you are doing multiple sheets at a time you are still gonna have to move them around.

What is your plan?

 

How do you plan on doing it. Crossing your arms and blinking your eyes?

You will still have to move from sheet to sheet to do it. Even if you are doing multiple sheets at a time you are still gonna have to move them around.

What is your plan?

Make a jig so I didn't have to keep my eye on a line to cut. Also use a saw that has more power than a skill saw to cut through the stuff in a hurry.

Plus with a jig and a powerful saw, you get precise repeated cuts fast!!!!!

Plus the op said something about 2x6 and 2x4 material. double that up on a skill saw. But hey maybe you guys are running a 10 inch bladed skill saw or something.

 

Oh wait just went back and read the first post. You tell me Leo how your gonna cut a arc like that in a 4x4 with a skill saw with any kind of speed!!!!!!!

 

I wasn't the one suggesting a skill saw. If you had to cut 4x4 stock you would have to use band saw. Even though the curve is slight it is enough to bid the blade on lets say the Makita 16" circular saw.

 

Well I wasn't trying to get into a pissing match. But I did notice one guy trying to insult another guys intelligence a few posts back. And to me that guy is as closed minded as they get.

I wish more of my competitors were like him. Cause they run things about as smooth as oatmeal. Nice and lumpy.

 

Ok Guys

Call me slow whited- thats fine, but I still am not sure why he is not using radius forms to create the wall. --- The tech and tools are already out there,,, why would you spend all this time trying to reinvent the wheel ,,,, am I missing somthing,,BE NICE-:laughing:

 

Call me slow whited- thats fine, but I still am not sure why he is not using radius forms to create the wall. --- The tech and tools are already out there,,, why would you spend all this time trying to reinvent the wheel ,,,, am I missing somthing,,BE NICE-:laughing:

boy did i start a mess,rental systems...ive been using systems for bout 13 years some are good most are bad because of the return process.to many times ive got a cleanup charge or damage.my guys are hard on stuff,cant fire them all. lost pieces is another problem.im using a system now from atlas.its radius wall 18 foot tall.the company sends me all these parts and pieces for me to put together.i look at all this stuff and think why cant i do this my self.so thats what started this mess.the atlas system is pretty much alot of 4x6 with radius cut out of one side these are for horizontal studs.then a verticl strong back attaches to that.oh yea the radius cuts they did are crap-ola,very wavy and inconsistant.for the money im spending i think i could do better myself.

 

Prestige, you were not the guy I was talking about. Also you didn't insult anybody. I was talking about the guy talking trash to Tin. He just seemed immature to me.

And your right. To the OP, have you checked with any form rental places? it may be cheaper to do that also. The forms have been built already. If You were in Chicago I know symons would rent them to you. That may be a cheaper alternative.

 

No- I know scrapecc,




I was insulting myself-:laughing::laughing:, I am not a concrete contractor- period , but to go to such extremes when the technology is already out there-?????????? Time,,,material,,,, labor,,,, money,,, - you know what I mean- there has to be a better alternative- I agree with you 100% --rent it- less headaches and it would be designed for this application- but- as you know,,, tons of opinions and suggestions on CT- it's all good:thumbsup:
Brian