Not Radiance/ TT product but I did conect ipe 5/4 to a composite 12'' round colomn with a jig saw and a pattern for the cut. It involved a 3'' shop made plug I drilled thru taped the plug in clear into the hollow colomn with tightbond 111 pluged the holes with a standared ipe plug.
I held the damm things tight with a band clamp,like the ones the Bone uses, and it was a real Pain!! Not any real movement down the road the long plugs were at somewhat of a 90 into the colomns.
I cant see any hardware working for your thing unless you had it custom made but you could use a plug or something like it and cover the hole with one of those pound in composite plugs that seem to work ok. J.
Maybe a toggle bolt set up would be a solution...haven't done it, just thinkin' out loud. Something to spread that load around the fiberglas w/o opening up the side too much.
We've done it-
Cut it a bit long, then use a belt sander to chew out a bit of the rail, to compensate for the curve.
Use the hardware, and perhaps add some adhesive inside the H channel- and silicone along the cap rail/column line...
Endurance railing makes a connector for in between the column (with a contour on one side for the column and a flat side on the other side for the attachment of the railing.
It is a little hard to see but if you look at the column/railing attachment you will see that piece in between.
Clemens
for making a mount: Get yourself a thick piece of Azek. Rout it out as much as needed, and glue it to the post, rounding the edges of your Azek block slightly.
Mount to that, replacing the railing screws with longer ones that will extend into the columns.
We did this model of install on some skewed rails that didn't have brackets that would work.
~Matt
Use the hardware that comes with the kit. Use the same principles attaching the railing to the column as you would to the post. Just as others said, cut it a half an inch long and belt sand the profile. It's a piece of cake..:thumbsup:
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