suggest some wall sconces to the homeowner in lieu of can lights.

 

Will it dramatically reduce the effectiveness?

 

The HO is the boss, but if they're asking your opinion maybe remind them that you want a lot of weight and these specialty drywall panels generally lack the mass we want. Standard 5/8" drywall is cheap and heavy and can be field damped. So you could build a much heavier (and therefore higher performance ) partition.

 

that makes sense. They are adamant about using this product but with adding all the cans to the ceiling, it kind of diminishes the affect of the quiet rock.

 

I believe around a can light you would make a housing around it. I'm sure they give specs on the products website.

 

You build a box of Quiet Rock around the can light, and seal it with a special sealant or putty. The product has an internal membrane that is claimed to change sound waves into heat, quite different than just using mass to block the sound.

 

You should check into the green glue product first I think it will be cheaper and maybe better product.
Here is link http://www.greengluecompany.com/

 

Quiet Rock is an amazing product! And if the owner wants it, then go for it! One sheet of Quiet Rock is the equivalent of 8 stacked sheets of 5/8.
There is no comparison! If they are adamant about sound proofing there simply is no other way to go other than QuietRock in my opinion.
And like previous guys mentioned about the pot lights, just build boxes around them using the quiet rock. Charge accordingly.

 

One sheet of Quiet Rock is the equivalent of 8 sheets of 5/8".

Marketing hype with no data ever offered nor even a theoretical explanation. You will always spend more money, and have lower performance with pre-damped board.

 

Quietrock should be installed using Greenglue to achieve max benefit (screws also) . I would recommend a thick plywood on walls and ceilings 1rst , then glue and screw. We found that a cordless sawzall works pretty good for cutting it. Yes build boxes around light fixtures if they must have them ( would make sure fixture specs allow).

 

Sheets ordered. Will B installed by the weekend. I'll let u know how it turns out.

 

After hanging 100 sheets of quiet rock about a year and a half ago I learned there are other options for soundproofing as Ted White states.

The quiet rock I hung was $100 for a 4x8. It was basically a sheet of metal sandwiched between two sheets of 1/4'' And we had that special caulk that was like bubble gum. We used jig saws and circular saws for all cutting. Forget routers. :stuart:

And it was a ***** to hang. The other 900 sheets in that house was alot easier. :1eye:

 

Wow

I am not sure what you are talking about TED!!!. Just completed 100sq ft of ceiling. First and formost, Roxul Safe and Sound was used in the joist cavities. Everything then sealed off and QuietRock applied. Taped and mudded one coat...

All I have to Say is WOW. What a dramatic difference. It is absolutely astonishing at how the noise transmission has been cut not by half, but by attest 70 percent. This is a truly fantastic product. Absolutly incredible and worth every penny.

I have now ordered more due to the fabulous results. The HO is ecstatic with the results, now purchased another 5k in ceiling QuietRock to do the rest of the home as specced by the HO.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Highly recommend this product. It scores easily and was a pleasure to install. No different than standard gypsum board that we normally install. I am not sure why you had so many issues with it and had trouble with the installation of it. Knife and a straight edge and off you go..

:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:

 

I am not sure what you are talking about TED!!!. Just completed 100sq ft of ceiling. First and formost, Roxul Safe and Sound was used in the joist cavities. Everything then sealed off and QuietRock applied. Taped and mudded one coat...

All I have to Say is WOW. What a dramatic difference. It is absolutely astonishing at how the noise transmission has been cut not by half, but by attest 70 percent. This is a truly fantastic product. Absolutly incredible and worth every penny.

I have now ordered more due to the fabulous results. The HO is ecstatic with the results, now purchased another 5k in ceiling QuietRock to do the rest of the home as specced by the HO.

Thanks for all the feedback.

Highly recommend this product. It scores easily and was a pleasure to install. No different than standard gypsum board that we normally install. I am not sure why you had so many issues with it and had trouble with the installation of it. Knife and a straight edge and off you go..

:clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap::clap:

Tou didnt get same stuff I got if youre cittin with a knife:no: They must have changed....again. The stuff with cement board on back is the best IMO. I dont think it is made anymore. You should snap a couple shots and show board and install:thumbsup:

 

Mike, I'm glad it worked out for you. :clap:
I only used the type that had metal in it. Thats what the builder wanted. It had a higher rating and of course higher cost.
Think there was like 3 or 4 types. Did you use the caulk ?

 

Tou didnt get same stuff I got if youre cittin with a knife:no: They must have changed....again. The stuff with cement board on back is the best IMO. I dont think it is made anymore. You should snap a couple shots and show board and install:thumbsup:

For some reason, everyone assumes quiet rock is the hardest thing in the world to cut. Dont get the thickest kind they have! lol. You need a friggen table saw to cut that stuff.
Use there EZ-Snap Quiet Rock. Its actually easier than regular drywall to cut. Just score and snap.
http://www.quietrock.com/drywall/ez-snap.html

Quiet Rock I believe has a total of 5 different kinds of noise dampening drywall.
http://www.quietrock.com/drywall/special-panels.html
Check out their website for more info.

Glad everything worked out Mike!

 

Thanks guys. Your advice was so valuable in my opinion.

Yes I also did use the caulking to seal up any air leaks.

Now there is one problem. Now I need the HO to wake up today to open the house. Laughing.

Plz don't sleep in.

 

Have you use the product Ted?

 

Used and lab tested it many times.

 

Are my ears tricking me then?

 

Your ears are not lab instruments. If we want to know how a product performs, we test it in a lab.

For example, while the installation you just completed sounds OK, we know from lab testing that it won't perform well in the bass. Little mass = little bass isolation, generally.

Any of these pre-damped drywall panels are simply two sheets of standard drywall (maybe a sheet of cement board) and a damping compound. So you can buy a pre-damped sheet of 1/2" drywall, or instead apply two sheets of standard 5/8" with a damping compound that you apply. The latter will yield a much more massive partition, often for 1/2 the cost.

 

Interesting....

 

Don't get me wrong. These specialty drywall panels have been repeatedly tested over the years at multiple labs. I respect that. In my experience the published test data is accurate and reproducible.

These panels are faster also, and the score and snap-ability is better so if you're in a race...

 

Haven't heard from you lately Ted. Glad to see you back here. :thumbsup:

 

What matters is what the home owners lab ears hear to b honest. All the facts mean squat if the real world chews it up.

Quiet rock wins for me and I will recommend going this route always.

 

All the facts mean squat if the real world chews it up.

The laws of physics don't stop in the lab. We test so that we know more. Most people would prefer lower cost and higher performance, don't you think?

 

He was in a room installed with quiet rock and kept sleeping. Laughing.

 

Hahaha ya! He couldn't hear us talking, he was surrounded by quiet rock.

 

Boooooooo yah. Precision. Tu for the feedback. Appreciated.

 

No prob bro. Always glad to help out.

The laws of physics don't stop in the lab. We test so that we know more. Most people would prefer lower cost and higher performance, don't you think?

I would agree with you Ted, but keep in mind, your way is more labour intensive as well. But I do trust that you know what you're talking about. All your statements seem to make sense. As long as our clients our happy.
Thats the important thing.

 

Fortunately I've found that most guys want to listen and learn, and installing soundproofing has become big business for some contractors.

 

Stick to the 4 elements. Decoupling, Absorption, Mass, and Damping.

Decouple the framing with double stud or staggered.

Add absorption with the least expensive fiberglass available.

Use the cheap mass from standard 5/8" drywall. Two layers.

Use a damping compound to damp the drywall panels.

 

I'd say you missed the most important element, and that is air seal. If water can get through, air can get through sound can get through.

You can decouple all the walls, put expensive sound board up and use fancy compounds and still have a common cold air return between the basement and the living space above that is a perfect conduit for sound.

Also you may not realize it but your HVAC supply ducts are a perfect passage for sound.

The first thing I tell clients is there is no such thing as sound proofing in a house...there is only sound reduction. Nothing short of feet of concrete will stop deep bass penetration.

For home theaters we use decoupled walls, packed with safe n sound, vapour sealed electrical boxes, doors with a mechanical or triple sweep and any place that air can pass is caulked. Have your HVAC supply and return ducts piped with lazy S curves, no sharp 90s.

Now home theaters are a different animal...you want sound to dissipate to have a relatively "dead" room, yet you also don't want the sound to disrupt the living space around the room. Double drywall doesn't dissipate enough sound, I vote for single 5/8 if you want to get spendy put sound board behind it first.

 

Single 5/8" drywall has insufficient mass to stop much. Also, you might look to save your clients some cash and simply spec standard fiberglass insulation rather than a specialized insulation that does no more than the cheapest fiberglass you can get at Home Depot.

Interestingly, sealing is far from the most important component. Sealing is important, but a wall can have a surprising number of penetrations before performance suffers. See the NRC research with outlets.

 

Ted I added it up once and safe n sound is over 2.5x the mass of fiberglass and it costs 60 cents a square instead of 40. Now I don't have any test evidence but I know mass helps with sound deadening...but I'm willing to switch. :thumbsup:

Also in my application we are looking for sound dissipation in the room and if you mass-up the interior too much you make the room sound really hot, which requires you to add additional dissipation inside the room.

I still stand be my sealing practices, play some music then poke a hole through a wall...

 

I've tested the seal issue at length personally at Orfield Laboratories in 2006. The results were consistent with the NRC studies in Montreal.

Mass / density within the wall cavity is not a goal, and in fact as I said, it's counter to what we are looking for. See the NRC reports IR-761 and IR-691 for the raw data. If you had a million dollars to spend on a build, you would still use the cheapest fiberglass available. It's best for bass.

 

In that case next job is getting fiberglass. :thumbsup: