Contractor Talk - Professional Construction and Remodeling Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hanging this product next week.:party: Spec sheet states circular saw and or jig saw. And says it contains some type of metal inside product. Also special bits for saw and router required.:w00t: :sad:

Going to stop at supplier this morning to try to order in time for next week, I'll cross my fingers.

My hangers are going to really love me after I drop this bomb on them.

Have any of you guys dealt with this yet, and does the saw with dust port work?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
This is a good question. The 530 has a steel layer in the center. Good product and it performs as tested. You have to be very careful cutting it.

A recipro saw will be too aggressive and risk delamination of the steel from the 1/4" drywall. This has happened in the past. Product was fine, but the installer was in hot water for cutting and delaminating the board and installing it anyway. Same with a jigsaw. The back and forth motion of the blade is the risk.

The circular saw or roto-zip all cut in one direction, reducing the chance of delam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Supress Products makes a similar product to QR530 without the metal layer. It weighs less and is much easier to cut since it doesn't have metal. ProBuild and Seacoast stock the product throughout Florida.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
All of the manufacturers have product without steel, The QuietRock 530 is simply one that they make that happens to have the steel.

In any event, you can field assemble a less expensive, higher performance wall than can be had from Quiet Rock, Supress, National Gyp or Temple. Use standatd $6 drywall and apply the damping material yourself.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
that may be true, but when you factor in labor and risk associated with applying damping material and getting the same results as the "turnkey" board made by several manufacturers, it's not worth the perceived savings, mess to clean up, and other factors.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Not so. In fact much more glue (Quiet Glue, Green Glue, Swedak, Decibel Drop) is sold for these applications than pre-damped board. All have been tested many times, in many separate independent NVLAP certified acoustic labs.

If this were a complex process, I might agree. But it's just squirting the material on the board and screw to studs and joists as you normally would.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
hung some quiet rock before....not sure which model though...it was easy to snap if you scored both sides. 1 side was 1/4" and the other half was like a cement board 3/8" thick....making the whole thing 5/8" I used my keyhole saw on all the cutouts....i basically left the router in the toolbox on that job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the feedback! No changing whats ordered now. Fine tooth jig saw blades,vacuum saw, special ,router bits. :thumbsup:

Has to be an extra,hourly,take our time and do it right the first time! No steamrolling through this. ;)

Feel free to add any more advice and thanks,I will keep you posted. :party:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Finishing up the hanging today. Nearly 1000 boards total, including around 75 Quiet Rock 530.:clap:

As far as the Quiet Rock..........Forget the router bit they recomend on their website:furious:, waste of $. They are made for cement board. I will check part#, maybe a mitake was made.

Cut and rip with circular saw with spec'd blade(28 carbide tooth) I paid way too much for. We were in open areas and used fans to pull/blow dust out of doors. In a closed area I would recomend vac system for sure!

All cutouts were made with my:eek: Bosch Progressor jig saw w/fine metal blades. Very clean cuts. :thumbsup: Did not tear up the dywall at all. I bought a cheap jigsaw and it did not perform well at all. My hanger went right back to the Bosch!

Sealant..........Did you ever gum stuck on your fingers? Picture that on all the perimiters of your boards.:w00t: Maybe better described as soft taffy hanging down like goo. told hangers don't try to clean it off, I'll let the finishers do it off their stilts. It requires finesse caulking skills and the bulky quart tubes suck, pint tubes would be easiers to handle.

As for soundproofing......dont know yet,nobody working :party: (banging around)on floors above yet. Will let you know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
The QuietRock 530 is a good product acoustically. You used it on the ceilings as well, then? Applied directly to the joists?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,668 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Ceilngs were stripped out. Also we seemed to get two different batches :blink: as one was harder/stiffer than the other making cleaner cuts and easier to hang.

Seems to me they used two different brands of drwall. Basically,it is two 1/4 drywall with galv.steel glued in the center.

After 35 yrs in this stuff I'm still running into things I've never done before.:laughing:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
Bummer they didn't spec some decoupling of that ceiling drywall layer from the joists. I've observed over the years that some of the pre-damped drywall manufacturers say that if you use their product you don't have to decouple. Or that their pre-damped drywall actually decouples. Both assertions are very wrong.

As Big Shoe found, these pre-damped panels are simply standard building materials (drywall or cement board) with a damping compound in between. It's cheaper and better to assemble yourself in the field.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top