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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm getting proposals to re-do my roof and had some questions:

1. Most are putting 15lb felt except for one that will add 30lb if I go architectural and one will add fiberglass if I go arch. Should I request 30 or fiberglass if I go 3 tab, or is 15 sufficient? Decking is original 1x6.

2. All recommended adding ridge vent, but all but one noticed/checked to see that I don't have soffit vents. I do have windows in the gables on the sides across form each other. (Not sure if photo attached?) Not sure which way to go with this; I seem to remember reading no ridge if you have gable vents? Or am I wrong on that? And would I then also add vents? No soffits, 4" T&G and exposed rafter tails.



3. All but one were around $900~ to step up to arch shingles (certainteed and atlas) but the GAF were around $3000 difference. The GAF guy is smaller, are the others getting a better price because of volume, or are GAF that much better? Or?

Was something else, but I can't think what it was right now??

Separate question, I need to replace some of the T&G on the perimeter that has rotted. What is the best way to fasten those to the rafter tails? Had an older guy tell me screws? I have access to a 15ga finish nailer and a framing gun.


thanks.
 

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In my opinion, GAF shingles are the best. I would get a couple of other quotes from other contractors that offer GAF shingles. You want to go with a GAF Certified contractor. They are the only ones who can optimize your manufacturer's warranty. As far as adding ridge vent while you have window in your gables. I still would. Just make sure you have sufficient sofit vents and your windows remain closed at all times.

Devin Mahdi
Dallas Texas Roofing Companies
 

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It is possible that your house was in it's origin a wood shake or shingle roof, if so they builders may have decided that soffit venting was not needed because of the very nature of a wood shake roof. They are very open to ventilation from top to bottom thus not requiring soffit or ridge/gable venting.
If you intend to install soffit venting (which may be a very good idea now) and you intend to keep and use the gable vents then ridge vent (IMO) is not needed as long as the gable vents are about 3 or more feet above the soffits. Others may disagree with this but I don't give a chit.
Even if you have gable and ridge venting the majority of the cooler air will come in through the lower soffits and exit the gable and ridge vents as it is supposed to do. I have seen some here say that the gable venting will circumvent the soffit venting, the air will come in the gable vents and exit the ridge vents, not true as physics does not work this way. Heat rises.

By the way, is your roof sheathed now? If not you might consider a radiant barrier sheeting seeing as how you live in Atlanta.

Andy.
 

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Need to know if that attic is finished or relying on the underside vents. I would say 30 lb felt is not needed but a nice cheap upgrade to ensure the 3 tab doesnt telescope the 1x through.(appears flatter).

With venting more info is needed. I would agree with Andy to a degree. Alot of old gable vents will move air with a soffit vent and adding a ridgevent can short circuit that air flow. On the other hand most of these vents are not accessible and clogged up with years of debris so they dont work well. In that case I would add a ridgevent. If you do go that route request one with a baffle as that has been said to pull air with a cross breeze.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies.

roof is not sheathed, original 1x6. don't think re-sheating is in the budget.

Attic is not finished. The only vents I can tell are the two screens in the pic above (above the windows) and a 15'x2' (?) plywood soffit that was added at one time with two screens in it. I'm wanting to try to put the house back to original, so that plywood soffit will be ripped out for sure and the one above also, cause I don't believe that is original. So, there is no venting except for the gable windows. (in the pic, the center window is fixed, the two sides are open). New vents would have to be cut in the side of the house., right now it is open eaves with exposed rafter tails.


what do ya'll suggest as a fastener to secure the T&G eaves to the rafter tails?
 

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You are not talking spaced 1x6 are you ?

If so you will need a solid deck, OSB or Plywood for comp.

As for the 15lb, i would not use anything less than 30lb, the cost difference is minor. 15lb is probably fine, but not if it were my home, i would opt for 30lb.

In a perfect world you would add soffit venting and install the ridge venting. What you have have will work its just not ideal.

The shiplap or T&G should be nailed with an 8d nail. At least that is what is expected of us here in the state nobody likes but secretly wants to move to :).
 

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When looking at the bid that was 3000 higher, was it apples to apples or is he figuring on something the others are leaving out? And like said if you have spaced 1x6 it is almost a must to use ply or osb on top.

When I did use to use felt I always used #30 , because of the wind we have here.
 

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Why in the world anyone would still use felt amazes me. You can buy rhino wrap for the same price as 30lb felt. Although i prefer titanium 30 over the others $110 for a 10sq roll.

Gaf are the cheapest lightest shingles you can buy. I would recommend certainteed followed by owens corning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yes, spaced 1 x 6. Nobody has mentioned needing to sheathe the roof?

The estimates all appear to be the same. nothing stands out to make it that much more.
 

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Why in the world anyone would still use felt amazes me. You can buy rhino wrap for the same price as 30lb felt. Although i prefer titanium 30 over the others $110 for a 10sq roll.

Gaf are the cheapest lightest shingles you can buy. I would recommend certainteed followed by owens corning.
That was actually word for word what I was going to say, but you're getting your titanium 18 bucks cheaper then me
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I was wrong. The decking is about 3/4" x anywhere from 5" up to 12", with the majority around 9". The spacing is average 1/4" - 1/2". Some places almost butted, some places up to an inch. A couple photos below.

The house is a 1930 A&C bungalow. I don't know if these boards were hand cut/planed or if they had mills by then? It's all heart pine, I believe?

I also found a hole in the top band(?) where I think would be where the "soffit" vents would be installed. Maybe I'll take some pics after I drag a better light up there to show ya'll to see if they would work?
 

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That deck spacing is considered a solid deck, your ok to go over that. True spaced sheathing would have required OSB or Ply be installed...i still wonder is the $3000 extra on the one bid was for ply or OSB. If its not listed, you should ask him and get it in writing if that is the case.

The synthetic underlayment is also a good option as noted by Patrick, it probably cost a bit more but its $ well spent. Its nice to have a 10sq lightweight roll to work with also.
 

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I'm getting proposals to re-do my roof and had some questions:

1. Most are putting 15lb felt except for one that will add 30lb if I go architectural and one will add fiberglass if I go arch. Should I request 30 or fiberglass if I go 3 tab, or is 15 sufficient? Decking is original 1x6.
As your roof deck is slightly irregular, there may be a cosmetic advantage to 30#. It would be reasonable to specify this material
2. All recommended adding ridge vent, but all but one noticed/checked to see that I don't have soffit vents. I do have windows in the gables on the sides across form each other. (Not sure if photo attached?) Not sure which way to go with this; I seem to remember reading no ridge if you have gable vents? Or am I wrong on that? And would I then also add vents? No soffits, 4" T&G and exposed rafter tails.
If the windows aren't susceptible to a prevailing wind (rain), having them open or partially open as the norm will provide some ventilation. Adding continuous ridge vent to the attic would further enhance the effect.


3. All but one were around $900~ to step up to arch shingles (certainteed and atlas) but the GAF were around $3000 difference. The GAF guy is smaller, are the others getting a better price because of volume, or are GAF that much better? Or?
When it comes to price each contractor will have their own reasons for charging whatever. If you are satisfied that you are comparing like specifications and workmanship, then more expensive is just more expensive. Material wise that's pretty straightforward, workmanship not so much. The best way I know is to request a handful of references and make some calls.

Was something else, but I can't think what it was right now??

Separate question, I need to replace some of the T&G on the perimeter that has rotted. What is the best way to fasten those to the rafter tails? Had an older guy tell me screws? I have access to a 15ga finish nailer and a framing gun.
Framing gun. You will want to be sure to have the material before the roofer starts if you want the boards replaced as part of the contract. Pre-painting them would be ideal. After replacement be careful of nail length for the finished roof as they could penetrate through to the underside. There are plenty of roofers out there that would just plow forward without giving it a thought.

thanks.
You say it's a bungalow. What are the flashing details involved? This is an area that could make or break the workmanship equation. How are these details to be handled? I provide clear details on these items within my proposals.

You know, there are shinglers and there are roofers. Shingling is the simple part and a lot of workers never get much beyond that point. Who is the contractor sending out to do the work? Back to the follow up on the references. Can each contractor provide you with some references of jobs of similar scope? Certainly they would be most telling of what you could expect.
 

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Roof

You are getting ready to dump some money into your new roof, why go the sub par way? I would never consider going with a 15# on my roof, only 30 or above (synthetic). Your roof is not a part of your house you want to cheap out on, i highly recommend using the Arch 30yr or better shingles with the heavier weight barrier. Your substrate looks to be in perfectly fine condition, also make sure the first 4 to 6 feet from the eave they use some sort of Ice and Water shield. Either you pay the money to have it done right now, or pay the money to have it fixed later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks again for the replies.

The company that is around $1000 on the 3 tab and $3000 higher on the arch is a family run business. I got his number from a high end remodeler we both do work for. The others are all fairly big roofing companies.

As to the flashing:

Company #1. Line all valleys, walls, chimneys, skylights and other roof penetrations w/ ice and water shield.
Step & counter flash all walls and chimneys. brick/stucco.

Company #2. 3 tab estimate:Replace step flashing. Add ice & water shield.
Arch estimate: R & R chimney flashing (medium), R & R step flashing (L flashing). add ice and water shield.

Company #3. Promo cover: Install ice and water shield (advanced leak barrier) in all valleys, penetrations, around chimney and where shingles meet walls.
Always install new flashing.
Actual scope: Install new flashing at walls and chimney.Install counter flashing where roof meets brick wall.

Company #4. Reflash chimney using 26 gauge galvanized metal step & counter flashing.
Install GAF Weather Watch Leak barrier around all roof protrusions, valleys and chimney.

Doesn't sound like anyone is adding Ice & water at the eaves? Is that necessary in Atlanta?
 

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There is always buildup of moisture at the eaves of roofs, regardless of ice or not, water will naturally seep at this point. It is a relatively cheap thing to add, a roll of ice and water (grace) is around 150.00 for 75 linear ft. Depending on the size of your roof you are probably not adding more than 300 to 450 dollars. Every roof that I have redone that did not have ice and water at the eaves had some sort of rotting in the substrate along the eaves. I personally would never redo any roof and not add the ice and water at the eave.
 
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