[poisgo]

i recently removed a new vinyl window which had been installed with the top screws in the outer sash track and one screw in the middle of the top as well. the sill capping of this window was tucked in the groove of the window and not against the wood sill itself. this eliminated the need for a sill extender that is typically used. i myself find issues with these two techniques. however i would better my side of the coming argument by some more professional input. the screws i removed were not predrilled so that the threads would not allow any sort of movement of the frame. does either or both of these techniques void the warranty. any sort of input would be appreciated.

 

[grob62]

I cap into the accessory groove quite often. I learned how to do it from a window manufacturers rep. If you take your snips and cut into your metal just a bit and twist, it makes a little hook which will hold into the groove, kind of like when you punch out the siding to fit into your undersill. It is not my preferred method, but it has it's place. I by far would rather use the sill extender, but with casements, awnings, and anything with a mull, they rarely work out, and one manufacturer doesn't even supply them, so we have to either put down a 1 X and cap that, or cap into the groove.

As far as your metal not being up against the wood, or hollow capping as we call it, I was always against it for years, because if something hit it, the metal would dent, then I realized that it still dents whether or not there is wood behind it. Which is why I always try to talk my customers into not wrapping the wood threshold of an entry door, but to paint it. Within 6 months of wrapping a threshold, people have kicked the, well, lets just say it is a high traffic area that tends to get beat up.

The screw in the middle was probably to straighten out a bowed master frame. Sometimes the top rail will smile at you a bit, especially on wider units.

I'm sure they are plenty of people who will tell me I"m wrong, or this guy's a hack. But....somebody must think it's OK because I'm still working.... Knock on wood.

Opinions and something else,

 

[Dave Ruc]

I as well have done hollow capping of window exteriors. It generally isn't an issue unless someone tries to climb in or out of the window, however if possible, it is optimum to have something behind the trim. And as for the screw in the top, it could very well have been an attempt to wipe the grin from the windows face or simply further securing the frame into the box. As for weather or not it would void the Manufacturers warranty, it might have but you would have to check the installation guidelines and void warranty literature for that company. I know I often of times use Viwinco windows for City houses with counter weights and the top pre drilled screw holes happen to match perfectly in the center of where the cast iron pulleys are so I have to move the screws farther up the window frames. After repeated notices to Viwinco, they have yet to change their design.

 

[Tom Struble]

That happens to me all the time Dave,top screw is inline with the pully mortise

i always try to use the extender,i wish it could be made so its ajustable instead of having to trim it to size,it dosent always cut nicely

this company has adhesive backed trim that can be useful

http://www.rwdextendertrim.com/products.html