You'll find out more if you search for "Azek®". :whistling

 

Depending on the width it's about 50 bucks for an 18 foot length. Work with it just like wood.

 

Azek is one name brand of composite material.Tanza and Fiberon are others. I have used it plenty. No real complaints except the price and very flimsy to transport. Cost is often a factor to customer but when told they will never have to replace it seems to justify itself. It does work like wood but can be a little finicky especially in cold weather. Manufacturer also recomends using their glue for seams & miters etc. but I have found that a good PVC pipe glue (1/2 the price of the name brand) works just as well. Give it a try you make the decision.

 

Koma, Azek, Kleer, NeverRot and Royal Board are some more. Like G said, it's really floppy so you'll need a strongback to transport it. Koma has a brushed appearance that is a magnet for dirt, especially if you're handling it with dirty hands or gloves. Clean it with 409 or something similar. Azek has a more glossy twin finish, smooth one side, cedar wood grain on the other. With it's glossier finish it's easier to wipe clean. Keep in mind that all PVC expands quite a bit in the heat. It's not uncommon for a full length installed in the winter to expand by up to 3/8" in the heat of summer. This causes even glued joints to blow apart. I've seen it myself, even with Christy's White Hot Glue. I would not use pipe glue. I've heard good things about Bond 'N Fill glue, it's supposed to keep that from happening. Be careful when handling pieces with mitered cuts, they can be REALLY sharp!

 

Keep in mind that all PVC expands quite a bit in the heat. It's not uncommon for a full length installed in the winter to expand by up to 3/8" in the heat of summer. This causes even glued joints to blow apart. Be careful when handling pieces with mitered cuts, they can be REALLY sharp!

Very true! I learned the later the hard way. Then 409 is a must to get the "red out" OUCH!:w00t:

 

I love the stuff myself

and if your ripping Azek on a bench top table saw be prepared for a tremendous static shock as you touch the table after a long rip.

 

What do you guys use for nail filler. Ive seen a TON of botched jobs do to caulking and nail hole filling, all turning yellow the next year. I can show you pictures of many high $$$$ homes near me that look like crap now cause of this

 

What do you guys use for nail filler. Ive seen a TON of botched jobs do to caulking and nail hole filling, all turning yellow the next year. I can show you pictures of many high $$$$ homes near me that look like crap now cause of this

we dont. we use stainless finish nails in a trim gun

 

ya, but what fills the hole? Even the finish gun inevitable leaves that little rectangular divit which is noticeable at least to me

 

What gun are you using?

ya, but what fills the hole? Even the finish gun inevitable leaves that little rectangular divit which is noticeable at least to me

My cheap Smith and Wesson doesn't leave a rectangular hole. The hole is no larger than a regular (hand nail) 6d finish nail would be. The Hitatchi however leaves too big of a divit.

 

Smith and Wesson??? WTF? I had no idea they made those lol. I usually use a bostich angle nailer.

 

I use a Senco FinishPro 35, the hole is the size of the nail. Some of the PVC brands will even melt around the nail from the friction when it enters, sealing the hole right up.

 

Great upper end product IMO. It is pricey compared to wood, but that is totally insignificant, since you are only talking about one window. Agree with the others, that long lengths tend to be annoying to work with because they are so flexible. We install with 15 ga Hitachi gun, be sure to use stainless nails. Anything that could get knocked (like window sills) get backed up with ss trim head screws. IMO Azeck and Kleer are the two best brands, because they are more consistently solid in the core and leave a much more workable edge when cut or profiled, the others tend to be much rougher to me. Also, some of the less expensive products have a very brittle outer shell and seem to crack or shatter a lot when nailed. Like everything, you get what you pay for. Although we caulk with high performance selants like Lexal or Geoseal, we find that using it to fill nail holes is too messy. Since our applications are always painted, our painters use exterior grade of painters puttty. Everyting then gets primed with a xylene based primer, and topcoated with top of the line acrylic. I love the product, but for it to look convincing as a wood substitute, it has to be painted for me.