[Warren]

The bottom line to the customer is this, you don't HAVE to paint this stuff, but at some point you will want to. Maybe if your only doing simple window trims or some posts and beams, you may be able to get by with all concealed fasteners and smooth factory edges. But with the many profiles of the trims, your gonna have some fasteners showing, and any cuts you make will not look like the factory edges no matter what you do.

 

[EricBrancard]

The bottom line to the customer is this, you don't HAVE to paint this stuff, but at some point you will want to. Maybe if your only doing simple window trims or some posts and beams, you may be able to get by with all concealed fasteners and smooth factory edges. But with the many profiles of the trims, your gonna have some fasteners showing, and any cuts you make will not look like the factory edges no matter what you do.

Generally, the paint will last longer on PVC trim because you don't have the same moisture issues wood will experience. Which is also a good selling point.

 

[WarnerConstInc.]

Just buy it pre-finished if you don't want white.

I have had some ex-cel up for 8 years, still nice and white. I have been painting all cut/exposed edges too and it holds up nice and you can two coat it quickly.

 

[Tom Struble]

meh,ive done enough pre finished stuff to know the exact color doesn't run through the entire line,i can see having mixed lots on a job causing problems

 

[WarnerConstInc.]

I will see. Never had the chance to use any pre-finished PVC.

If they wanted a color, I always used miratec, PVC for white. I hate white trim though.

I have to paint some PVC pink here pretty soon, I will see what that does. Well, it will be pink so that is a demerit from the get go.

 

[Spencer]

I also use Kleer and use their product for glue etc.

Cortex screws are the bomb. Expensive but worth the cost.

Giving the whole job a final coat of paint makes it look sharp.

My in laws have a couple of outdoor rocking chairs made out of PVC material. After a couple years they are having trouble with the pores collecting dirt. Besides painting it I didn't know how to deal with that. Maybe pressure washing...???

 

[TBFGhost]

Make this thread a sticky!

Wiping the cut ends with Acetone is supposed to reseal the end.

It does not. I tried it.

 

[sevonty]

If your ripping it with circular saw I do not hold the trigger down for max speed/ power. I "throttle" the trigger to about half speed, the full speed seems to heat up the material makeing a straight line wavy

 

[Brian Peters]

If your ripping it with circular saw I do not hold the trigger down for max speed/ power. I "throttle" the trigger to about half speed, the full speed seems to heat up the material makeing a straight line wavy

Variable speed circular saw??

 

[Ohteah]

I like grk brand trim screws t 10s and t9s.They have good grab and allow for adjustment. Have found Bondo to work well for filler.

 

[world llc]

the polishing pads for rotex (vlies) work great on pvc (and solid surface)

 

[on_the_level]

Soft scrub with bleach works great to cleaning. Use a heat gun to take out any scratches or dings, but be careful not to overheat. We use medallions over the seams in a pattern over a long run and nail on one side- helps to hide the joints during long runs of expansion/contraction. Good paint adhesion works best with light sanding or good primer. Wear safety glasses, dust hurts bad in the eyes.....

 

[TBFGhost]

Best trick I know it to not use the stuff....

 

[Cole82]

All the tips have been covered. I have found nothing to reseal the ends up to my standards. I like to use a combination of glue. The Azek brand glue I put in little glue bottles to make it easier to apply. But it takes a while to tack and cure so for that reason I like to get the joints set with CA glue. Holding it in place until the Azek glue cures.

Here is a picture of our azek work.

Cole

 

[The Coastal Craftsman]

All the tips have been covered. I have found nothing to reseal the ends up to my standards. I like to use a combination of glue. The Azek brand glue I put in little glue bottles to make it easier to apply. But it takes a while to tack and cure so for that reason I like to get the joints set with CA glue. Holding it in place until the Azek glue cures.

Here is a picture of our azek work.

Cole

Cole have you had any experience with painting it yet?

 

[Cole82]

Cole have you had any experience with painting it yet?

Yes we did some azek facia and window trim 6 years ago and painted it with pvc safe SW it was the darkest green they recommend. It still looks great today, I drive by it a lot. We sprayed it on before installing then touched up the cuts with a paint brush.

Cole

I don't have a picture of the front porch facia we did but the green window trim is painted azek.

 

[Tom Struble]

boss of awesome:thumbsup:

 

[Tom Struble]

Best trick I know it to not use the stuff....

i'ts not easy being green

 

[NewtonCarpenter]

glue both sides of you miter. Its cellular glue, so if both pieces don't get a nice wetting with glue the bond will fail. Bondo works good for filling larger screw holes. Don't count on just finish nails to hold long skinny pieces of trim for long. PVC grows and shrinks in length a lot from heat and it will pull small nail heads through then sag. Use stainless finish screws. I know for trim it sucks to use screws but this is the only way i can get the material to stand up to the New England seasons. Bondo and sand the screw holes once its painted it will be hardly visible if at all, for many years to come. As far as sanding goes we work with it pretty much just like wood. sand, cut, what ever you need to do.

www.newtoncarpenters.com

 

[FreedomBuilders]

Good stuff in this thread