glue both sides of you miter. Its cellular glue, so if both pieces don't get a nice wetting with glue the bond will fail. Bondo works good for filling larger screw holes. Don't count on just finish nails to hold long skinny pieces of trim for long. PVC grows and shrinks in length a lot from heat and it will pull small nail heads through then sag. Use stainless finish screws. I know for trim it sucks to use screws but this is the only way i can get the material to stand up to the New England seasons. Bondo and sand the screw holes once its painted it will be hardly visible if at all, for many years to come. As far as sanding goes we work with it pretty much just like wood. sand, cut, what ever you need to do.

www.newtoncarpenters.com

 

Good stuff in this thread

 

I've never seen any filler stay put in nail or screw heads. Over time, the filler will back out of the hole, showing a bump in the trim.

 

well dam Lone! whats a mere human trim installer to do?:w00t:

 

Do what I do.....F the filler...:thumbsup:

 

f the filler..got it:thumbsup:

 

:laughing: :laughing:

...not much more you can say after those pics

 

I have never filled either Lone and I have talked about this in the past. A little nail hole is better than a bad cover job.

Cole

 

Yup. Along the coast, dirt collects everywhere. Take a look at these pics. These were taken a few years after the jobs were completed. Notice the corrosion on the fixtures and the dirt accumulation on the soffit. If the holes had been filled with pretty much anything, dirt would have collected on it. I learned the hard way.

 

Lone wouldnt it be a different story if it were painted? Im thinking even filled a laytex paint would hold it place.

 

I thought so too, but at the HOH, anything exposed to sunlight is showing every fastener. It happens to be the only Azek job I ever worked on that got filled and painted.

We have done other jobs that got filled in high traffic areas.....and that blew up in our faces.

The only thing I've found that doesn't attract dirt is Christy's....and that dimples the material from softening it.

 

Good tip!

 

On joints I glue one end then touch and release it to the other end then join the joint. This coats both ends of the joint. Almost like "flashing" construction adhesive in wall board situations.

A tiny block plane I found is a must have when working with this stuff for getting joints just right or relieving rip miter edges. Those dang edges are sharp!

Only thing I dont like about the PVC trim is it moves more than a gypsy.
I tell my client this is a PVC material and will expand and contract much more than wood.