[Teetorbilt]

I'm putting together a proposal to rehab a coffee bar inside of a bookstore, both are to remain open during the process and noise has to be minimal. Almost every cabinet door has hinge problems, some are broken and most have just the screws pulled out of the boxes.
I have tried Bondo in the past and didn't care for the results. For years now, I have used a quick set epoxy which does a pretty good job in most circumstances. These doors are going to get a daily workout and I'm seriously considering throughbolts but thought that I'd pick some brains first.

 

[plumguy]

I'm putting together a proposal to rehab a coffee bar inside of a bookstore, both are to remain open during the process and noise has to be minimal. Almost every cabinet door has hinge problems, some are broken and most have just the screws pulled out of the boxes.
I have tried Bondo in the past and didn't care for the results. For years now, I have used a quick set epoxy which does a pretty good job in most circumstances. These doors are going to get a daily workout and I'm seriously considering throughbolts but thought that I'd pick some brains first.

A friend of mine told me that when he runs across stripped holes in wood he uses some wood glue and then bangs in wooden golf tees and then breaks them off.

 

[Teetorbilt]

plumguy, this is particle board, when the screws pull out they leave behind craters the diameter of golfballs. Another good reason to hate the stuff.

 

[PipeGuy]

Does the type of hinge assembly allow it to be relocated to a position where it can be anchored into sound material?

 

[MinConst]

How about adding a face frame to cover the damage and fasten the hinges to.

 

[Mike Finley]

Teetor, I would look here: http://www.abatron.com

I'm pretty sure they have what you want.

 

[Teetorbilt]

Pipe, relocation would have to be closer to the center of the openings thus weakening the geometry of an already failed system.
Mike, thanks for the site. It's a new one for me. I use Goldcoast or Adtech for my urethanes and silicones. Most are castable products which mean forming and pouring on a vertical surface, I have plenty on hand but the stuff is expensive to buy and use.
I could always shift to polyester and gas the place out. I think that I'm looking for a miracle cure when there isn't one. Just thought that I'd pitch it to the audience and see what happened.

 

[mdshunk]

Curious what the objection to the through bolt idea is? Seems like with the proper length bolt and a nice acorn nut on the inside, that would be a very sturdy workmanlike repair. I can only seen an epoxy repair eventually pulling even a bigger wad of particle board out.

 

[Teetorbilt]

md, you are right and I've been leaning in that direction.
I use a quickset epoxy called Epoxo 88, sets in 6 mins. and hardens in about 20, here. I would use this to level the surface and then throughbolt.
As stated in the beginning, I was wondering how others dealt with the situation.
Particleboard bites, sucks, blows and isn't very good. Ripoff from Dr. Rich.

 

[Mike Finley]

Don't know what you are referring to in regard to casting or silicones. I'm just talking about their products that you use to replace missing wood or rotted wood so you can then screw into them. They are supposed to be better than the original wood.

Maybe this is closer to what I meant :

http://www.abatron.com/home002.htm

 

[Teetorbilt]

Interesting stuff, Mike. I'm requesting more info and samples.
Most thin epoxies will penetrate rot and up to 1/8" of solid wood, locking it up harder than a whore's heart. My favorite is GitRot which has been around since I was a kid, it's marine.
Epoxo 88 will sag some as delivered but can be stiffened up by adding a thixogen such as sawdust, cabosil, glass bubbles or a dozen other things, it all depends on what properties you desire.
If I get some spare time, I'll write an article for the board.

 

[shopdust]

That would be appreciated, especially if accompanied by lots and lots of photos.

 

[ppmc]

I'm putting together a proposal to rehab a coffee bar inside of a bookstore, both are to remain open during the process and noise has to be minimal. Almost every cabinet door has hinge problems, some are broken and most have just the screws pulled out of the boxes.
I have tried Bondo in the past and didn't care for the results. For years now, I have used a quick set epoxy which does a pretty good job in most circumstances. These doors are going to get a daily workout and I'm seriously considering throughbolts but thought that I'd pick some brains first.

I agree with plumguy,I have used wood glue and then stuck in toothpicks,not good for a long fix for daily use though. :Thumbs:

 

[Teetorbilt]

shopdust, I have been involved with epoxies for about 30 yrs. now, excluding polyesters and I only have about 40+ yrs. with them. I began with cutting down surfboards in the early 60's.
There is not much that you cannot do with epoxies except large castings. I could write volumes on this subject. When I get the opportunity to write the article, it will be directed to common use. Not the esoteric. Check out 'THE BEST ROOF' in the archives and you can see that I can go over the top, the perfect roof but unaffordable to most.
I also have about 20 yrs. experience with urethanes which, to me, are more intriguing than epoxies. They can be hard enough to make car body dies and soft enough to tickle a kid. Amazing stuff.