Be sure you buy treated lumber that is for "ground contact". Most of the treated 4x4s are not rated for this. If you don't believe me, ask at the lumber desk.

Also, using cement to hold the posts just makes a cement container to hold water/moisture. It does not allow the post to dry out. Instead, use crushed rock to set posts. Tamping down will make the post unmoveable and will allow water to drain.

 

Also, using cement to hold the posts just makes a cement container to hold water/moisture.

Wood doesn't rot underwater. A blob of concrete below the frost line will have a much more positive effect than negative in respect to rigidity and load-bearing capacity.

Having said that, in the context of fence posts, I think the most bulletproof install is a blob at the bottom, dirt fill, a concrete "collar" higher up but still below grade, and a final fill of 6-12" of dirt.

The critical point is the earth/air interface. That's where rot happens.

 

Thanks for all the responses and discussion. The job doesn't start until later this month, I'll do my best to get pics. I think I may apply more green to them before having them set, and maybe some tar too, but I don't want to get out of hand. Cheers.

 

Add Copper Green to that mixture.

Best it can be.

JonMon www.deckmastersllc.com

 

do any of you guys use a preservative on cedar when decking or fencing or a wax

 

Thanks to everyone that chipped in their advice.

To help preserve the 4x4's from rot I lined up the 4x4's on the stack and used a paint/stain pad and tray to apply copper green on the bottom 4' of the fence post. After the posts were concreted in I sprayed rubberized tar to the wood/concrete junction. Then we went ahead and built the fence.

I will definitely consider steel posts in future projects...

 

Good looking fence.

 

Thanks, it was a nice build for some nice people.

 

Best Product on the market for wood posts

Hey Guys, I have been doing this a while. I have about 60 fence builders working for me now and we shut down one division. We all know when The EPA banned CCA in 2004 pt posts suck. As for the question we all know that posts rot at grade. We some dont know is rot os fungus and needs oxygen and fuel and the right temperature to exist.

Rot fungus eats the damp post(food) and the reason it only spreads a few inches below grade is the fungus- microbes use the post as a snorkel of sorts. Thast why we pull the plugs and the tags are still on the bottoms of the posts- rot does not happen there.

A few years back we started using The Post Collars and its a no brainier. We sell about 60% of all wood posts jobs with them. They work and people are stoked their fences are lasting. Here are my two fence companies.
http://www.losgatosfence.com/home.html
http://www.centralfences.com/

Here is the Product for the question. Or use steel posts.
http://thepostcollar.com/main_page.html

 

How about just tightly wrapping the post with some 6" wide galvanized sheet metal where the post meets the soil? Or does it need a sticky membrane attaching it to the post?

Nice fence OP.

 

I think the problem is that moisture is trapped on 5 sides...BOTTOM + 4 sides.
The way I have always done it is to set a flat rock, bricks, or whatever on the bottom, tamp down, put a little gravel in the hole, & then concrete to near top.

 

I go with the School of protection. Copper Green will stop rot and bugs.

Gravel will hold water. If the project merits the copper wrap a few inches above and below the dirt level, even more protection. The more water, the more the copper leaches, the more leaching of copper, the more protection.

DONE.

J.

 

I love copper green/brown. It used to be better. I think it is now like 9-10% copper. It used to be 25 percent. I just use three times as much. The spray cans are awesome.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

Thanks finally someone that knows WTF they are talking about. We use them too. So many idiot : contractors?"

 

We use them too.

Pricing looked like $15 for a 6X6. With roll copper I can do it for $5. Maybe I have the pricing wrong?

 

 

The Post Collars work period!

Any contractor knows where posts rot, why and how to protect them...This is a funny thread. We have been using these and they work. Or crown the concrete. Concrete does NOT trap moisture and moisture is just what makes the posts edible for bacteria and fungus...Ridiculous that people do not get it because the dont care to understand the science.

 

RE: Copper for fences posts

They are actually cheaper in the stores. I tried 12 gauge copper a couple times and both times the resins in the Redwood we use in Ca ate through the copper. Then the same happened on a 10 gauge sheet a customer had, it also failed. Whats cool about the collars is the inside is a thick pliable mastic type material that hardens around the post after a hot few days. Thats what keeps the galvanized exterior from contact with resins or chemicals in pt that eat up galvy or copper. But yeah copper would work well if it had a buffer and went below grade a few inches. Copper doesnt like concrete remember( as a contractor) thats why we have to insulate or sleeve copper pipes in slabs- concrete eats copper.

Its the best product we have found it also bullet proofs a fence post from weed wackers! The nail holes also self seal and kick boards can be used. In our county they are on all the sign posts, and I saw them in Lake Tahoe. So I guess the price depends on how often you want to replace a fence or mail box. What about $150 for a hundred lf 4x4s that will make it last...30 years or more? To me and our customers there not much to weigh out.

 

What about $150 for a hundred

Link?

 

Even ground contact doosent matter once The EPA banned CCA pt posts are garbage. Its not just ground contact but the important thing is "retention."

 

Yeah it needs that membrane.Resins in wood or chemicals will eat galvanized up in no time.Its science guy reaction stuff.

 

They are actually cheaper in the stores. I tried 12 gauge copper a couple times and both times the resins in the Redwood we use in Ca ate through the copper. Then the same happened on a 10 gauge sheet a customer had, it also failed. Whats cool about the collars is the inside is a thick pliable mastic type material that hardens around the post after a hot few days. Thats what keeps the galvanized exterior from contact with resins or chemicals in pt that eat up galvy or copper. But yeah copper would work well if it had a buffer and went below grade a few inches. Copper doesnt like concrete remember( as a contractor) thats why we have to insulate or sleeve copper pipes in slabs- concrete eats copper.

Its the best product we have found it also bullet proofs a fence post from weed wackers! The nail holes also self seal and kick boards can be used. In our county they are on all the sign posts, and I saw them in Lake Tahoe. So I guess the price depends on how often you want to replace a fence or mail box. What about $150 for a hundred lf 4x4s that will make it last...30 years or more? To me and our customers there not much to weigh out.

 

The " Resins " in your " Kind " of Redwood ate through Copper.

Total Bogus.

I do Admire your dedication to Sales however.

Side Note >> nothing " self Seals " on an outdoor project <<

Again nice try.

J.

 

What about Gracies- Henrys...lol...ok pal now you have lost my complete and total respect as an advise giver. There are dozens of products used from roofing to windows foundations that must self seal. mastics, butyls, bitumen membranes. By the way its not my product Pal! Use what you wish I can care less, but your condescending pedantic and obtuse replies are what women do on Facebook and have no value on a help forum.... Here is my Ca contractors license and a link. Can I see your plz? I see you spend your time giving your 1/
100th cents worth and I have read your uneducated and wrong advise, shall we have a pissing contest? I think maybe a knitting contest would be in your favor.. Why dont you go build something, like the 100ish homes and thousands of fences my companies have built. Have a wonderful life lonely man...or are you a man?.

https://www2.cslb.ca.gov/onlineservices/CheckLicenseII/LicenseDetail.aspx?LicNum=606100.
http://thepostcollar.com/main_page.html

 

I like this guy !!

Doesn't deal with the facts, but is great with the mud slinging.

Welcome a board miss Jinny !!!

J.

 

Here you go doddomite. Just the first thing I Googlagrammed. You really should not give such advise when you are clearly a fruitcake. But for the peoples sake here ya go! Copper PT...Cedar Resigns. Yellow Pine, Spruce...lol but sad for you Pal.

http://terrylove.com/forums/index.php?threads/copper-pipe-touching-pressure-treated-wood.8745/

 

That link doesn't even talk about copper and redwood - it's a plumbing forum, and that was a DIY question.

 

Actually...thanks for the welcome. This is just what i do and been doing it for about 4 decades. Best to you bud.

 

Can I see your credentials plz? Licenses projects etc. I mean professional projects and I just showed you facts. Your right to call me Miss because I cant believe Im in a sitting down piss'n contest. Over and out! God Bless America!

 

I'll repeat the question - where can you buy 100 of those collars for $150?