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Always Learning
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Warren said:
So you guys don't guild the gable on the ground with the overhang attached?
No...always make our let in cuts on the ground before we fly trusses. Once set we install the look outs and attach the fly.
 

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pro
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Stacked framing is good, but just show him the code book! even with a single 2x6 top plate it can be off alignment by 1". 5" for double 2x4. Anything double 2x6. This is Irc 2009 though. Not sure your local code.
Its irc here, with some Massachusetts amendments, but I didn't wanna tell the inspector he's wrong...I've always had an anti authority problem since I was a teenager!
 

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Do you guys do anything to stiffen gable ends with cathedral ceilings? We have run 3/4" round steel through the top plate, with several feet above and below strapped to the studs. It seems to be better than sheeting alone tieing it together.
I guess the obvious solution would be running studs from bottom plate to gable, might be challenging to frame though.
 

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Goin' Down in Flames....
Highwayman
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Wow now i'm confused as well :)
you notch your gable rafter(bringing lookouts through ) and secure to the second rafter ?
If so
wouldn't that compromise the strength of the gable rafter ?
Most guys ive seen around here) build a ladder and shoot into the gable end, then roof sheathing starts at the overhang helping secure the overhang as well .
Just order EZ-Gables. No notching required. :thumbsup:
 

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pro
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To be honest with ya I'm not really sure? I always thought it was the norm around here to hand stack roofs since I started framing in 1996 outta tradeschool. Obviously with larger spans we use trusses and don't get me wrong, it goes a lot quicker... Plus the biggest truss manufacturer in the area burned to the ground this spring= not good
 

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diplomat
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Do you guys do anything to stiffen gable ends with cathedral ceilings? We have run 3/4" round steel through the top plate, with several feet above and below strapped to the studs. It seems to be better than sheeting alone tieing it together.
I guess the obvious solution would be running studs from bottom plate to gable, might be challenging to frame though.
I can't think of anything stronger than running the top plate to the underside of the roof sheathing.
 

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Always Learning
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MTN REMODEL LLC said:
ATC and Over.... Could you tell me where to look up that assembly... tried ezgable and drop top.... ? TIA
Ask your truss manufacturer to drop the tops of the gable truss either 1-1/2" or 3-1/2". Then you can run your look outs through over the top of the gable and attach to the truss behind the gable. It eliminates the notching. Just have to remember to order them. and also fill in between the look outs.
 

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Ask your truss manufacturer to drop the tops of the gable truss either 1-1/2" or 3-1/2". Then you can run your look outs through over the top of the gable and attach to the truss behind the gable. It eliminates the notching. Just have to remember to order them. and also fill in between the look outs.
Thanks Over..... Duh on me.... makes perfect sense:thumbsup:
 

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Gen. Contractor
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413Sean said:
We call the barge rafters in the northeast rakes. Don't ask me where that term came from?? And the 2x6 blocks that support it are lookouts. Some framers around here build ladders for the "barges", I toe nail a 2x6 right threw the sheathing into the gable end rafter, then put my "barge" on while the gables are being framed on the deck before its stood up. Man oh man would I be lost with the terminology if I was to work out on the left coast!
This is exactly how I do it but my gables are up on the plate and not the deck. I build it all down and tip it up.
 

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Do you guys do anything to stiffen gable ends with cathedral ceilings? We have run 3/4" round steel through the top plate, with several feet above and below strapped to the studs. It seems to be better than sheeting alone tieing it together.
I guess the obvious solution would be running studs from bottom plate to gable, might be challenging to frame though.
Someone needs rake wall lessons!
http://www.contractortalk.com/f14/rake-wall-time-lapse-140469/

Actually, I build very few gables on the ground any more, and if I do they rarely have "boxes" on them(local term). Regular soffits on straight walls, yes. I build my boxes (ladders) on sawhorses and use an inner and outer barge, cut the same as my rafters, with blocks at 4' centers. I attach my 12" smart lap to the bottom side to square and straighten them and then hang them from up in the ceiling. I usually put a couple of lookouts (out looks, outriggers, whatever) cut into the gable, at 8' up and near the top, with a 4' 2X4 nailed to the wall tight to the tails. this holds up the bottom while setting, provides support for the box, and backing for the return.

I don't want anything to do with dropped trusses.:no:
 

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Butcher of wood and metal
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Ask your truss manufacturer to drop the tops of the gable truss either 1-1/2" or 3-1/2". Then you can run your look outs through over the top of the gable and attach to the truss behind the gable. It eliminates the notching. Just have to remember to order them. and also fill in between the look outs.
That is the way most are done around here seeing most guys do 2 ft overhang. 16" and less they will do ladders.
 

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Someone needs rake wall lessons!
Thanks for the link, I only knew the way I was taught, which didn't seem right anyways, but I've never had the chance to do it any other way. The boss is the boss...
 
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