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All you need to do is picture how the sheathing is going to work, draw it on a piece of paper. If it's a wall then jogging your layout back 3/4" will make your sheets start right at the corner of the building. Wouldn't want that on a roof, you need your roof overhang sheathing to sit on a truss too.
 

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KennMacMoragh said:
All you need to do is picture how the sheathing is going to work, draw it on a piece of paper. If it's a wall then jogging your layout back 3/4" will make your sheets start right at the corner of the building. Wouldn't want that on a roof, you need your roof overhang sheathing to sit on a truss too.
On at least 2 trusses
 

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KennMacMoragh said:
Never seen a roof framed that way
? Yes you have. All I'm sayin is the sheet that catches the barge needs to be long enough that it catches the truss behind the gable. Basically start with 4's and 8's
 

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Ninjaframer said:
? Yes you have. All I'm sayin is the sheet that catches the barge needs to be long enough that it catches the truss behind the gable. Basically start with 4's and 8's
Nope, I ain't joking, I've framed about 500 houses and never seen it that way. We use about a 1'x8' sheet going parallel with the roof trusses, the sheet that catches the barge only goes to the gable truss.
 

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Nope, I ain't joking, I've framed about 500 houses and never seen it that way. We use about a 1'x8' sheet going parallel with the roof trusses, the sheet that catches the barge only goes to the gable truss.
Your saying you run the grain vertical on the gable truss out to the rake without overlapping into the commons? I've never seen that, aren't you worried about the rake sagging?

As far as layout 1 line 1 X makes life a whole lot easier and then you don't have the aggregation cutting 3-1/2 for layout all the time... Not to mention lumber width variances. As far as walls one gets 15-1/4, 31-1/4, etc treatment and the next gets 16 all the way because overlapping plywood flush makes it work out perfect.
 

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KennMacMoragh said:
Nope, I ain't joking, I've framed about 500 houses and never seen it that way. We use about a 1'x8' sheet going parallel with the roof trusses, the sheet that catches the barge only goes to the gable truss.
We did it like that in Seattle in the old days with open tails and gables. Lookouts every 4 foot, 2x8 rsc barge rafter nailed on the end of those, and 1/2" AC ply ran vertical, break on the lookouts.
 

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You guys use real ply wood??? Only real ply Ive seen these days is 3/4" for the sub floor occasionally and 1/2" on the walls once in a blue moon.

For roofs all I see anymore these days is 5/8" osb. heavy as hell, especially if it swells in the rain.

I miss 1/2" roof ply.....
 

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Barge or Varge Rafter. The exposed rafter at the edge of the gable overhang.
So I learned it that the rafter on the outside of the overhang is the Barge Rafter, and the rafter on the outside of the sheathing, actually a trim board, really, is a Verge Rafter.

And we called the boards that hold the Barge Rafter "Lookouts."
 

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Seven-Delta-FortyOne said:
So I learned it that the rafter on the outside of the overhang is the Barge Rafter, and the rafter on the outside of the sheathing, actually a trim board, really, is a Verge Rafter.

And we called the boards that hold the Barge Rafter "Lookouts."
We call the barge a fly rafter and we call the supports look outs as well.
 

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Deckhead said:
Your saying you run the grain vertical on the gable truss out to the rake without overlapping into the commons? I've never seen that, aren't you worried about the rake sagging?.
No, I think I would have seen it happen by now if it did sag.
 
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