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By the time anything happens, if anything happens, it's probably time for a new shed.
I'm in a SS zone. HDG starts to rust within a month or 2 of nailing.
 

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You need to use galvanized button heads. The 3-1's.
Thats bending 3 to the one that actually doesnt.:laughing:

BTW- take it from a dummy, you spelled dummy wrong.
 

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Goin' Down in Flames....
Highwayman
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You say pine panels. Not sure what you used exactly, but I get the picture of a 4x8 or 4x9 panel siding.

In any case, siding is nailed into the studs, not just the sheathing. You don't want to bury the nail head anyway, just touch the surface. If you ever do structural siding, like T1-11, the Inspectigator will call you on nail heads that break the surface. You lose shear strength doing that.

Roofing nails are commonly used for fiber-cement siding, but that is because you need a large surface area on the nail head, and you don't want the nail set anyway. Fiber-cement is pretty fragile. Wood siding is generally nailed with either ring-shank siding nails, or standard 8d galvanized.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
this is an excellent forum. while finding the old-timer is always the best answer for a young builder (if time allows), i am very much anticipating trying to learn all that I can from your collective wealth of knowledge. much thanks!


will get proper gun, nails, and post pictures soon.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
i think i have have figured out how to post pictures....

if so, these are from before i began attaching the panel siding

will post more pictures soon (if this does in fact work)
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
my intention was for an a/c to fit there, because i think window units are uglier than sin.

but after more thinking, I have now got an a/c hanging out of the window and went ahead and removed that protrusion - leaving that side of the house flat.

i chickened out on the considerations of future maintenance etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Just so you know. That 1/2 block that's to the right of the front door has almost zero strength in that direction,
in hindsight, i dont like the 1/2 blocks,.... agreed (i think)

but, so that i may learn more, what exactly do you mean? ( interesting-- the more you care to elaborate -the better )


I really wish at this point that the floor had be built beefier, and foundation better planned.
But since Im afraid that I would have wasted someone elses time back then ( fall 2011 ) I am glad that I went ahead with it rather than not at all, so far anyway :)
 

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Ok, the 1/2 block (8"x8"x8") is sitting on the ground and is bearing on it's side, the flat side, not hollow. If it were sitting so that the hollow (called a core) was up, it would have almost limitless compressive strength, well maybe 5000psi or something. As it is it has maybe...maybe 500psi...maybe
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
Ok, the 1/2 block (8"x8"x8") is sitting on the ground and is bearing on it's side, the flat side, not hollow. If it were sitting so that the hollow (called a core) was up, it would have almost limitless compressive strength, well maybe 5000psi or something. As it is it has maybe...maybe 500psi...maybe
I have not considered that and am glad you mentioned.
I suppose when I level it I could rise the entire foundation by one solid "flat?" block first (like the ones in this picture), placing a 1/2 length of one of those on-top of the corrected & properly situated 8x8x8 as you described, for better compressive strength. It's a short vertical 4x4 post that transfers the weight from the "beams?" onto the block, so it would seem to need to be centered on the block rather than resting on only 1 of the 4 compressively-strong walls of the 8x8x8---4x4 post set-up I'd assume not near code compliant.

..Thinking about crawling under that house amongst nature.....makes me hate the guy that said: "Dont ask someone to do something that you wont do yourself."
 

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