Powder-actuated fastening to a vertical surface
I want to attach some two-by horizontally to a wall using a powder-actuated tool and fastener (Ramset). I want things to be level. Is there some trick to keeping the lumber to the line while you fire the shot when working alone? I've never done this before and I suspect the shock will move the lumber off my level line.
Or, perhaps the "trick" is that you really need four hands, such that someone else holds the two-by firmly in place. Or, I'm just fretting for nothing?
Cheers.
Or, perhaps the "trick" is that you really need four hands, such that someone else holds the two-by firmly in place. Or, I'm just fretting for nothing?
Cheers.
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Are you attaching it to a concrete wall? If so why wouldn't you put them vertical? the way they should be
Other than the typical difficulties of holding long lengths while fastening, I don't think you'll have any trouble. I assume you're using a trigger actuated ramset, not one of the hammer smack things.
If you don't stand on one foot and hold your tounge just right it will come out crooked....:whistling:laughing:
I can't count the times I've used a foot to hold up something. I usually glance around first to make sure no one is watching.
I don't own any powder actuated tools myself and I usually use tapcons or some kind of anchor for something like that. But I can remember very specifically holding a board for an old boss of mine while he shot it on about 7 or 8 years ago. The way we were standing, the gun was right next to my ear and it really got me good. I was an idiot, and my boss was a jackass for allowing me to be an idiot, but that was one of the incidents that led to me getting serious about hearing protection while I still have a little left. By the way, I probably flinched enough that I wasn't a real reliable way of holding the board on the straight and level anyhow.
I just had to do this actually. I stuck a zip pole on an angle under one end of the piece just to prop it up, not caring whether or not it was on the line.
Got the other end exactly where I needed it, fastened it, then went and did the other side.
A piece of lumber could do the same thing, put something with some weight to it, on the ground behind your prop.
Got the other end exactly where I needed it, fastened it, then went and did the other side.
A piece of lumber could do the same thing, put something with some weight to it, on the ground behind your prop.
draw a level line or use a laser. hold the lumber in the middle at the mark and shoot. Then go to the ends, place them on the line and shoot. Don't forget your ear protection. A little construction adhesive will help too.
what he said^^^^
As Friend 1628837894993939^^^^^^^^^^ says
I've done this before... and dependent on the height... I like to use two 2X flat, a 3/4 piece of ply, 4 paint cans, and some laminte shims. positioned in the middle.... and whack that setting tool quickly.....:laughing:
Just Kidding... but if you're firing a 2x2 into block/concrete.... I can't think of the application that would need any greater degree of accuracey than 1/8....
Do the same as if you were nailing chair rail.
Actually that gun will fasten quicker than you can nail....
I've done this before... and dependent on the height... I like to use two 2X flat, a 3/4 piece of ply, 4 paint cans, and some laminte shims. positioned in the middle.... and whack that setting tool quickly.....:laughing:
Just Kidding... but if you're firing a 2x2 into block/concrete.... I can't think of the application that would need any greater degree of accuracey than 1/8....
Do the same as if you were nailing chair rail.
Actually that gun will fasten quicker than you can nail....
cut yourself a 2x to prop one end up. start at the top and keep cutting it down for each row. IDK anytime I fasten hat channel to a wall I just get the estimated middle on the line and then fasten the ends. Is this a serious question???
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