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The Old Master
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Post for a fence or a deck?

Pouring concrete below water is not as big a problem that can be for excavation of a hole. just dig a hole as wide as necessary.

If it is for a deck, you just put in a Sonotube and pour in the concrete and force it below the water and it will displace the the water upward and then inset a connector into the wet concrete for the post attachment. - Similar to building a bridge abutment.

If it is just for a fence, use the method necessary for the type of soil and amount of water that is there. Then fill with gravel and hopefully compact around the plumbed (and braced) post. If you chose to use Sonotube to minimize the concrete amount, do not put rock/gravel under the post bottom but use conctrete under it. If you are below the water table, the rock will provide a good source of water for the post to absorb water and suck it up.

More information on the use, soil type and amount of water coming in would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
thanks, so this is for a fence. All dry construction no cement. Ill compact crusher run around the post to set it. Post material probably isn't a factor but its stone if that matters.

Water fills half of the 30" deep hole about 5 minutes after shop vacing it out. Major PITA! I have no clue how to complete this job... or start it:censored:


I guess I never mentioned the most important part and thats the fact that I cant go any deeper. The sides just mush in! The native soil seems to actually be fine gravel. Very fine, has NO "stickyness" at all. Way loose, easy digging is the only positive thing I can say.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
whatever size the concrete is they still have to be 3 ft in the ground to ensure against heaving and I cant dig the holes under water without them caving in. If you think anyone is going to excavate 27 cubic feet of dirt per post hole to achieve the 3 foot depth without them caving in, all for a picket fence then your a new kind of stupid.
 
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