Looks a bit skinny :w00t:

 

That's no joke 30"wide customer wanted it to match the OG stairs that use to be there.

The old one only went down 7' though not almost 14'.

Cole

 

Here is a picture of the lap of the siding we've been putting on.. I guess the proper description would be ship-lap? I actually always called it ship-lap but I thought it might be a hillbilly term

 

I thought that it was a sailor term?:huh:
Steve

 

Thanks for the pic. I thought the lap might be bigger.

 

The tongue measures .5 inches.

 

Like I said, not very long (ie:compared to cedar clap)

 

shiplap style....derived from shiplap orriginally for abilty to shed water

 

We finally finished up on all of the exterior, we had to fight the weather the whole time it seemed!! :furious: The HO had planned on finishing the interior himself, but now he wants a price from us :thumbup:to finish everything down to the floor :thumbup::thumbup:

 

This winder stair case is a pain in the butt.

 

Is this stair code compliant, I know here this stair would never pass.

 

The melting snow was like a tsunami to this neon sign.

This is a better picture from the same strip mall. Can the design of the roof be at fault? I don't think so. But tell me why I am wrong if you know better.

 

This is a better picture from the same strip mall. Can the design of the roof be at fault? I don't think so. But tell me why I am wrong if you know better.

Absolutely poorly designed.

Although it has not been needed in our neck of the woods for the past 10 years or so.................Snow brakes were once standard practice! Most Slate roofed homes have them and therefore a metal roof as such definitely needs them!!



http://snowbrakes.com/static/install.html

https://snoblox-snojax.com/photos/deucecolors.jpg

http://www.whosworkingonyourhome.com/images/Products/gutter18.jpg


But.......... For all we know, they are under there somewhere!!

 

Is that Code??

 

Fun step project Cole, and i like the lap/log siding, GMOD

 

Not done but getting there.

 

Nice work. That one photo makes me dizzy looking down at the framework (or is it claustrophobia?:laughing.
Steve

 

Nothing wrong with the metal roof. Snow guards every 4-5' up each panel is all that's needed. Just like on slate roofs.
When they're only on the bottom, like we see everywhere, snow from above gets a good head of steam up by time it gets there.

 

a little pipe bore

 

View attachment 28710

View attachment 28711

View attachment 28712

"Little" pipe?

 

An example. Being installed properly on slate, and how they look with 9" of snow on them.

 

Finally got around to taking some pics of the my latest Cherry Kitchen. Still have crown and some extras to go.

The extras include that corner cabinet, cover the beam with Cherry, and two open shelf corner cabinets.

 

Is there something going where the trash can is? i've never seen that tight of a space, seems like it should have had a cabinet there. not sure what anyone would do there with a cabinet being right behind them.
nice work though!

 

Looking good Leo, I see you grain matched the triple drawer front. :thumbsup:

Did you do the tile work also?:whistling

 

Looking good Leo, I see you grain matched the triple drawer front. :thumbsup:

Glad to see someone noticed. :clap:

 

No tile work. Just the cabinets. You should have seen the walls OMG. In the first pic, the wall straight ahead. It had a 1 1/4" bow in it. I caught it on my way out for the 2nd measuring. I was walking through the door and just happened to eye the wall as I was passing through the door. I got one step past and I said WTF? Stepped back and WOW. From the corner to about 4 feet it is pretty straight. Then it bows back another 1 1/4". There was a pipe in the wall and they furred it out to make it past, and then just bent the rock to reach the existing studs so they wouldn't have to screw with the door. Oh ya, just about all the walls leaned back about 1/2", the ceiling is +/- 1/2", so I have to pull the crown away from the ceiling far enough so you won't notice the up and downness and keep the upper rail reveal constant. Fun is.

 

I would like to meet the carpenter(?) who considered this a viable solution for the pipe and door. Not going to get into the ceiling hackery...

Leo as always, amazing work. Site specific problem solving is my favorite and you have obviously mastered it.:notworthy

 

How I spent my Saturday

Actually, we started work on this a couple of weeks ago. We finally got a couple of days break in the weather, and my assistant and I decided to go for it, before the whole damn thing washed down stream.

As part of the school project I am working on we are constructing a box culvert for the entrance road to the school We had to follow all TDEC rules and regulations as this is classified as an "Impaired" blue line stream. It is a two barrel affair, and this was the footing/ slab pour for the first half.

Previously we had excavated down to solid rock and backfilled to sub grade with 3 to 6 inch graded stone.

We could have done this with a smaller crane, but got the 60 ton hydraulic for the same price. Rebar mats were tied outside the pour and placed with the crane on Friday. They weighed about 2 tons each. (#7's on 6" centers X #4's at 1' centers)

The six inch pump was key to keeping the water level down during the prep and pour operations. We also had two 4" pumps and two 3" pumps running in various locations.

60 meter pump was used to keep the main access road to the site open for other trades. After we pumped the box culvert floor we pumped a small wall for the loading dock outside the kitchen for the main school building.

The two dowel lines are for the outside and center wall of the two barrel culvert. Once these walls are poured we will divert the main flow of water between them to construct the other barrel.

Specs called for a 3000 psi mix. We used 4000, hot water and 2% non-chloride accelerator. Pour started about 9 a.m., at 3 p.m. we turned off the pumps and let the water level rise above the slab. Once it reaches equilibrium with the stream on the left, it sits there like a bathtub.

A challenging pour, and one that I am very glad is over. Now that we have something substantial to build from, the rest of the job should be much easier. :clap:

 

More about the mix?

After we pumped the box culvert floor we pumped a small wall for the loading dock outside the kitchen for the main school building.
.............
Specs called for a 3000 psi mix. We used 4000, hot water and 2% non-chloride accelerator.

Care to elaborate a bit on the mix(es) you used? What slump, and aggregate (just standard)? When you say "2% non-chloride accelerator." Exactly what is that? We normally use calcium cloride which is obviously not what you used. Did you use any other admixtures? Super-P? What was the temperature (range) that day?

 

He hired a sheetrocker from Florida (1500 mi trek) to do the walls because of price. The leaning of the walls is existing, but they could have fixed them by shimming things out. Same with the ceiling, pre existing. When things are out this much it is usually a house from the 18th century and I expect it. This house is from the 50's and I didn't expect it to be this bad. I had 1/2" scribes on all my cabinets (or more) and it wasn't always enough.

 

I've used a set of 'custom' shims to straighten a wall that was out of whack at a door opening.
The shims were cut from the edge of a 2 by with 3/4" of taper in 32 inches. Backed off the drywall screws, stuck them in and re-screwed the wall board.

 

Nice job mudpan.

stairs are done. They changed there mind on the hand rail though and want a knee wall out of vertical car siding. The lower 3 stairs are temp. until the floor is poored.

 

Nice job mudpan.

stairs are done. They changed there mind on the hand rail though and want a knee wall out of vertical car siding. The lower 3 stairs are temp. until the floor is poored.

Do you need a hardhat to walk up those stairs? :w00t:

 

This is a place me and the wife bought but needed a lot of work. About half way through it at the moment.

 

Alright, I gotta ask Mudpad, Why poured in place? Seems like that would be more cost effective job to do with precast. No precast companies in your area? Box culverts like that are always precast around here.

 

Well, see that's a sore subject. The contract documents called for a poured in place box culvert, but civil engineer told us off the record he would consider a precast. On bid day we had a dirt cheap price from a precast company for the box culvert, and our wise estimators used that number. Turns out the guy couldn't do a proper shop drawing. (When my PM submitted it for approval I was emabarrassed that he even sent it in) So it got rejected, they resubmitted something slightly better, rejected again. I figure if the couldnt do the shops they couldn't build the box culvert either.

All that happened last summer and fall, fiddle farting around trying to get something approved, so here I am in the dead of winter trying to pour the thing in place, which I could have done in August.

 

BC, Why do you have a Makita miter on a DeWalt stand? Did your DeWalt die an early death?:sad:
Steve

 

BC, Why do have a Makita miter on a DeWalt stand? Did your DeWalt die an early death?:sad:
Steve

Couple of reasons. Makita didnt have the saw stand in the US when i bought the Makita saw. Plus in the UK i was used to hanging my cordless tools under the saw on the stand as it has a ridge that fits the hangers on the most cordelss tools fron nail guns to cordless drills. Keeps them all in one place and out the wey. You may be able to make out in that pic that the paslode finish nailer is hanging on there with a few makita lxts and maybe the Bostitch nailer is also on there.

 

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