Got a few more layers done on the entryway. Goes slow when you have to make your own moldings.

Added a 7/8" x 3 1/2" sub layer, then a 3/4" x 3/4" quarter round under the sub layer. After that I made a 1" x 3 1/2" dentil with 1 1/4" teeth and a 1 1/8" space. Sanding and breaking edges takes a while. That got placed on top of the sub layer.

Then the bottom of the shadow box was made from a 3/4" x 6 1/8" board mitered an has 4 1/2" showing. It'll lose 1/4" when the face of the shadow box is attached using a dado.

Then a small molding wrapped around the dentil to transition to the shadow box.

Next will be the shadow box and the roof. Then I'll work on fluting the pilasters and the plinth blocks. After that the various moldings that go on the plinth and pilasters.

 

How many hours in are you. That looks like a day of breaking edges.

 

Started on Tuesday, but I've been bouncing around between some other smaller projects.

 

Looks great Leo.

Tom

 

Man the day flew by. Had to make some cherry cabinet stuff for someone else and I had the stain all mixed and ready to go. Did a test pc and the stain was not even close. So had to take a trip to Atlantic Plywood to have a custom stain made and it won't be ready until Monday. So all that cherry work was for nothing.

Glued up the stock for the plinth blocks, made the molding that goes on top of the plinth, made one of the three moldings that go on top of the pilaster.

Made the shadow box and crown and got them installed.

PITA crown. 35º-55º spring angle. Had to mill the bottom angle standing up against the fence.

 

Decided to build a shed for a family friend. Was a bit more time and money than I generously offered. Priming end cuts and metal flashing takes time.

I figured a week and that was Thursday. Still have fascia to wrap and corner posts. Rushing to get done I can cut a piece short. :sad:

 

the shed ,if the pad is proud of the frame how are you keeping the water out . it would seem like it would settle next to bottom plate and most likely run into the shed .

 

Yeah I hear that can be an issue. I didn't pour the slab. I wish I did it was way out of square and level.

The 12x12 structure fit the sheet goods better I explained to the owner all of this. I used quite a bit of construction adhesive under the sills. And if course the side eaves.

 

I have done this kind of da water no work stuff:blink: I have use a piece of trex under the bottom plate with a lot of sinkaflex to seal it up,,then sinka flex between the wood plate and the trex..It did good.

 

Magic concrete

 

i find that trex useful also .keep shoving under places on the remodels or repairs i get into. used a bunch patching up a barn like shed awhile back . i like having it between wood and concrete .

 

Me and my all star team banged this one out in 5 hours.

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Little bit of custom metal work in a dead valley

 

Still have to put the top (roof) on above the crown but that's not going to change the look. ALso need to make the sill board that goes under the threshold to support it. That continues underneath the plinth blocks to support the shorter retunrn.

Not sure if I'll use copper or lead flashing. Lead would be more period correct but copper will end up with that blue-green patina that people like. Plus it's not as expensive. I can bend the lead without a brake, the copper - not so much.

 

Copper. You must know someone with a brake.

 

Not our typical kitchen remodel..going to site spray this kitchen's boxes and trim...all prepped to spray tomorrow.

 

Made the top (roof) today. Cheated. Used Poplar instead of the Red Grandis. I'll be epoxying it and it'll be under copper or lead flashing.

 

Yesterday’s job

Today’s job

 

Today’s job

That is some seriously effed up stuff.
Who did what wrong?

 

Windows look clean.....

 

Still haven’t figured that out. Apparently when they bought the house the stucco was letting water in so they added another coat of acrylic on top.

This might be part of the problem

 

Wonder if someone improperly polished a turd...that still leaked.

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They sure waited till the last minute to do anything.

 

Water doesn't run uphill. Must be near the rood plane that it comes in behind.

 

Capillary action will defy gravity.

 

Starting up on the hood which will be my last project for a while for this client. I took my measurements and did my CAD drawing, figured out the curves in the CAD and made my curved sections. I made 6 of them, 2 for each side. I'll have to do the corners in the shop because they are a different shape because they'll be at a 45º angle.

So instead of hoping I got it right I did some of the frame at the house. I was there for other reasons so I figured why not just do this there and make my life easy and not have to worry if it'll fit or not.

Here's the look she wants and the CAD drawing.

And then I took it off the wall, disassembled most of it because it's been pouring rain and I don't have a covered vehicle and brought it to the shop.

At the shop I started putting it back together, this time with glue. Figured out how the right front and side curved elements would join together and clamped them in place. Then I had the measurements for the left and just put them in place. That's where I am in the process right now. I'll likely make one more curved part for the front center and then connect them at the top.

 

At the shop I started putting it back together, this time with glue. Figured out how the right front and side curved elements would join together and clamped them in place. Then I had the measurements for the left and just put them in place. That's where I am in the process right now. I'll likely make one more curved part for the front center and then connect them at the top.

Got a 36" range hood similar design, but all wood, que'd up for mid next week. So I'm curious, you going to have a 'hip' element or just form those corners with the metal?

 

Looks to me we have old lumber that was left and covered up prior to this newer damage. The upper looks like newer lumber.

Edit: The upper right looks newer.

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From what I can tell the leak is coming from the left side of that window and then fanning out as it goes down. That’s why the lumber on the right looks new.

Found this is the wall too. Not sure what it is

 

2 pieces of 3/4 plywood joined for the hip.

We have 3/8" bendy ply in the shop to use on curves.

Tom

 

Yes it'll have the hip curve. I'll stick square stock in there with the appropriate compound angles and use a stick with a pencil to trace the pattern using the other curves as a guide.

Not sure if I'll use two 3/4" pcs so I have a good wide nailing surface or just 1 one 3/4". The top surface will have a point beveled at 90º so the "roof" lays flat on the hip.

Should take a good while to figure it out.

That's a fact. I'm going a slightly different route on figuring the hip rib out. Just me and certainly not pushing this as the best or most efficient way ... Cad and template for the whole nut. Thinking at best it's a wash on time to do the additional cad vs tracing and cutting. Me, having an accurate starting point, less worries overall. Still does not eliminate the hard part. Transitioning angles on the hip rib edge. Thats all hand grinding and sanding.

Got a sheet of 1/4 bendy ply sitting around (need to burn that up), so extra ribs. Plus it's just getting veneered, with that ugly alder :laughing:, a bit more support is in order I believe.

 

Have to give Zach credit for this. Working on a new "old" island.

Black tinted Surfacer, dark brown base coat, KA+ white coat, all sanded back, will get top coated with Hydro Plus, post catalyzed.

More pictures when complete.

Tom

 

I thought you gave up on the SW finishes?