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Wow. I haven't installed kplbe in a few years since we fired Marvin. That's a concern- what are they doing to address?
My lumber yard sent out their warranty guy who looked at 5 units I had water coming in on. It's been difficult to decipher. The building was open at wall insulation stage (no drywall and open truss to eaves). Window units had lightweight foam sealant applied to framing gap interior side. However, that foam by design doesn't fill well around shims if they protrude beyond the inner portion of the window (no foam in front of shim).

We had high winds that may have blown water in. My subfloor got saturated in a few spots...that much water.

I don't have a good answer yet as the rep hasn't visited site. The high mullion was the most logical find on 1 window, but I had water in on fixed units as well.

We caulk left/right over housewrap, and tops. Then foil tape sides and top, upper HS folded over foil.

If the units are solid, it's got to be the minor friction air gap at bottom nailing flange to HW..where inner foam sealant didn't perfectly seal and allowed high pressure air/wind pull water in. If mulled units, potential poor exterior mullion and/or no sealant behind mullion and between the window jams.

I don't know how many windows I've installed over the years. I've never ran into this. Maybe I learn something.

Last picture, look closely you can see how much water is sitting on the inner sill over Tyvek.


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Tyvek folded in on bottom, left/right sides. Bottom corners taped over Tyvek.

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Just so I make sure I'm following, a mullbar isn't cut to the same height as the window jamb and there is a leak at the sill?

If that's the case, it absolutely 100% would cause a leak. I've seen some windows where their corner beads weren't properly seated against each other and caused a leak. I'm certain that if there is a mullbar that is short it would leak pretty bad. That doesn't look like a periphery or wicking leak to me.
 

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Tyvek folded in on bottom, left/right sides. Bottom corners taped over Tyvek.

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For what it's worth, here they make you have a separate aluminum pan that the window gets set in and the tyvek is underneath that. It's silly on windows but on doors close to grade it makes a lot of sense. Typical situation where a little good went too far. It wouldn't have helped your situation at all because that isn't a wicking or condensation issue... Which is kinda good to an extent, you won't have to search the water gremlins for days.
 

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Tyvek folded in on bottom, left/right sides. Bottom corners taped over Tyvek.

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Should have a pan with a turned up lip in the back, door should be shimmed up just a bit to allow any water to exit, and I like to see foam between the turned up metal and the bottom of the door frame as an air sealer, but no foam under the door. Pretty bullet proof.
 

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1 fixed, 2 cost plus. That smaller one not many variables to be worried about . The cut up one I built his sister's house cost plus and they like the arrangement. The remodel and the cut up one don't have detailed drawings or permanent selections yet either

3 of six of our new customs are fixed, other 3 cost plus. Ranging from 600k - 2.5 million. Both remodels we are doing are fixed, 292k and 594k
Fixed price is tough these days, so much inflation in building costs.
 

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Should have a pan with a turned up lip in the back, door should be shimmed up just a bit to allow any water to exit, and I like to see foam between the turned up metal and the bottom of the door frame as an air sealer, but no foam under the door. Pretty bullet proof.
No pans here as standard practice.

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Just so I make sure I'm following, a mullbar isn't cut to the same height as the window jamb and there is a leak at the sill?

If that's the case, it absolutely 100% would cause a leak. I've seen some windows where their corner beads weren't properly seated against each other and caused a leak. I'm certain that if there is a mullbar that is short it would leak pretty bad. That doesn't look like a periphery or wicking leak to me.
Short mullion strip leaving exposed siphon gap. Sillpan would not have stopped that leak.

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Fixed price is tough these days, so much inflation in building costs.
Yes sir, didn't make as much as I wanted on last two frames, but our contract has a material escalation clause. I didn't evoke because I didn't make it clear when we started and I don't think they understood it. Tab contracts 89 pages

Any project of substance cost plus is best all around imo. I've gone back an forth on that but it really is.

I imagine on those monsters yall are building fixed isn't even a thought
 
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No pans here as standard practice.

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I've installed a bunch without myself, but they aren't much to install. Same with door pans, my sheet metal will knock em out fast if I give him a measured list
 

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I've installed a bunch without myself, but they aren't much to install. Same with door pans, my sheet metal will knock em out fast if I give him a measured list
We'll do a vinyl pan on hard exposed doors.

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Or drop the concrete 3/4" here is a La Cantina door we installed.
I would say it depends on the height of the door threshold, we installed a Nana Door with a minimal height threshold and we could not drop the foundation. If you are on the 2nd floor of a wood framed wall, even if you drop the door opening you need a pan.

We use pans (and head flashing) on all doors and windows, we have them measured and fabricated by our sheet metal company using lead-coated copper. The challenge is the width of the doors and windows, and the interior portion of how the casing (or no casing) or stool touches the openings. It can take a bit of planning to get the detail correct.
 

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Tab contracts 89 pages
TAB contracts are 89 pages? Wow, did not know that. By coincidence the TAB (Texas Association of Builders) contract came up in a conversation yesterday with my attorney. The local HBA I belong to in Houston switched from our locally written contracts to the TAB a few years ago, I stuck with their original contract (24 pages) and have had it amended a bit to suit me. If you ever want to consider another contract my attorney is in Ft Worth and he sells these contracts for a few hundred $. He prefers this contract over the TAB. He has a fixed price and a cost-plus version for both new construction and remodel.
 

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TAB contracts are 89 pages? Wow, did not know that. By coincidence the TAB (Texas Association of Builders) contract came up in a conversation yesterday with my attorney. The local HBA I belong to in Houston switched from our locally written contracts to the TAB a few years ago, I stuck with their original contract (24 pages) and have had it amended a bit to suit me. If you ever want to consider another contract my attorney is in Ft Worth and he sells these contracts for a few hundred $. He prefers this contract over the TAB. He has a fixed price and a cost-plus version for both new construction and remodel.
Yeah it's absurd, the actual contract is only 18 pages I think. Then it's got addendums to it, Legal Description, Expansive Soils Notice, Green Building Disclosure, Builders Disclosure, Special Provisions, Covid 19 Notice, Warranty (which I have never used but its part of the comtract), Honeowner Maintenance Guidelines, All Bills Paid, and some others all that require signatures and a notary. I add my scope of work, Table of Allowances and Selections Calander to it

I may check that out because I am not a fan of TABs
 

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We'll use these occasionally. Jamsill Guard Door and Window Sill Pan Flashing.

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I've seen those. I do all replacement, no new. I need a system with variable jamb depths. Weatherblok's is completely adjustable for depth. Use the plastic for the back dam(stuck down with attached tape), then use flashing tape out to WRB. Also has a foam seal for bottom
 
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