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Starting another kitchen. Medium size I guess. 13 sheets of 3/4, 5 sheets of 1/2 and 8 sheets of Baltic Birch for the drawers 4@ 5/8" and 4@ 3/8"

Some assembly required.

509628
 
Happy with how its looking and coming out.
I am concerned with the steel sweating inside the home. I'll be spray foaming the interior of the joist at the rim of home. I'll also likely encapsulate the inner 8' of the joists with foam to reduce heat loss and condensation.
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Can't tell if the inside part is capped off with a plate... may want to foam inside as well to keep condensation from rusting from the inside out?
 
Can't tell if the inside part is capped off with a plate... may want to foam inside as well to keep condensation from rusting from the inside out?
Just box steel with a side weld. I'll foam the interior of the steel joist in the rim area above the wall, seal off airflow from the exterior. Then I'll cap the interior end and holes. I am thinking it best to not allow future air into the interior of the joist.

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Happy with how its looking and coming out.
I am concerned with the steel sweating inside the home. I'll be spray foaming the interior of the joist at the rim of home. I'll also likely encapsulate the inner 8' of the joists with foam to reduce heat loss and condensation.
Image
Image


Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Your install work (and I’m no true framer by any stretch) and personal pride in your work is contagious man. I have really been inspired and re energized seeing your jobsite posts. It’s guys like you who give two f##ks after the check clears that keeps me cognitive of making the right decision getting into this game. Respect dude.


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Look into helicals (or ask your engineer to) they are deisgned to work in just those conditions. They will save you a ton of time and perform as well or out perform the concrete.

Thinking about this go on Building Knowledge and ask David Northup about these. He holds the TMP franchise for the entire state of Alaska. The soils he deals with are worse than the ones you deal with from what he describes.

Tom
 
They just did that on one of the buildings in the parking lot where my shop is. We will evaluate them on that building and when they put them on the building I occupy they may be the same or upgraded to a higher wattage depending on what they think of the new ones.

I have no specifics but I'll bet they put up 50 watters to replace the 250 watt sodium lights. The lumen number comparison isn't even close 26K vs 7K for the LED. But the color difference might make up for it. I think a 75 watt LED is more comparable.
 
They just did that on one of the buildings in the parking lot where my shop is. We will evaluate them on that building and when they put them on the building I occupy they may be the same or upgraded to a higher wattage depending on what they think of the new ones.

I have no specifics but I'll bet they put up 50 watters to replace the 250 watt sodium lights. The lumen number comparison isn't even close 26K vs 7K for the LED. But the color difference might make up for it. I think a 75 watt LED is more comparable.
There's really no direct comparison for lumens when going from HPS to a 5000K LED. I've swapped out 400 watt HPS with 125 watt LED and it's a billion times brighter.
 
I swapped out fluorescents for HPS for an equal amount of wattage for each. The fluorescents should have been brighter but they weren't. You could see the yellow cast of the HPS overwhelm the white of the fluorescent.

The white is much better and you can see more, but they aren't brighter for an equivalent wattage.

HPS are extremely efficient in watts per lumen. 400 watts is 50,000 lumens. 400 watts of LED light is 24,000 lumens. But it looks much better and I'd rather use that than HPS.
 
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