Finished this pantry up a couple of days ago. It's in two parts so we can get it to where it needs to go. It's a small outshoot hallway that use to be a door out to the porch. The door was removed and a wall put in it's place Tight squeeze all around. Had to deal with the door trim and hinges on one wall and the light switches sticking out on the other wall. Wall to wall was 40" so I made the cabinet 38".

We got the cabinet into place, leveled with shims which is something I rarely do. But no way I was taking this in and out a couple of times to grind the base down so it would be plumb and level.

Got that all situated nice and put the screws into the wall. Then we placed the top on. It gets screwed in through the mid stile in the face frame which is 1" wide into the bottom rail of the upper section which is also 1" wide. The upper doors stick down 1/4" below the bottom of the upper cabinet so it covers the joint.

Covered the gaps on either side with "scribe molding" which is something I never use. But the GC force me into it by putting all the trim on the doors.

Had to do some testing with the adjustable pullouts to get the bottom shelf to fit the pots she had stacked. Plus some various cans and things to size the other pullouts. She would like one more pullout made so they'll end up with 5.

 

Very nice Leo.

 

Level 5 cabinet building !!! Looks great and I like the layered scribs on the sides.

 

Leo even if he left the trim off the hinges would still stick out further than the trim, I think the trim completes the look, but I was nervous about the damn light on the ceiling!

 

That light gave me a scare when I first saw it. When I took the measurements it was a much flatter light, close to the ceiling. I was more worried about the swinging upper door hitting it. But it missed it by about 1" so plenty of room. Getting the upper on top of the lower cabinet with that light in the way was a squeaker but no big issue. Disconnecting the light and taking it off the ceiling would have been the option to get the top cabinet placed.

 

For me Vulkem hasn’t held the test of time & is twice as much per case


Mike

 

Excellent execution and finish Leo. (You too Sno).

Edited, finish was fish, see below

Tom

 

Excellent execution and fish Leo. (You too Sno).

Tom

Fish?

 

Not as cool as Leo’s, but I’m finishing custom cabinets for a laundry room today. This is my first time using undermount drawer slides. I think I’m going to use these a lot more. I’ll post the finished project tomorrow.

 

Under mount drawer slides? They are nice.

Been a long time since I made a solid wood drawer. Been using Baltic Birch plywood forever now. Still dovetail it.

 

Baltic Birch is a beautiful plywood. Just spent $169 dollars on a sheet to do a punch repair--veneer was bashed by the appliance guys bringing in a gigantic fridge.

 

We fab nothing but 5/8” solid maple boxes with dovetails. Heights up to 16”, 2” increments.

Tom

 

Grass has an add on piece if you need rear tilt.

Tom

I used Grass maxcess 16’s for this first attempt with undermounts. I’m Pretty happy for the price, but I don’t have enough experience to really compare yet. I was gonna try Blum but my usual supplier, woodworker express, is basically out of anything Blum.

Sounds like Blum is the go-to for inset. I’ll have to find some for my own kitchen island, if I can ever get around to actually working on it.

 

I used Grass maxcess 16’s for this first attempt with undermounts. I’m Pretty happy for the price, but I don’t have enough experience to really compare yet. I was gonna try Blum but my usual supplier, woodworker express, is basically out of anything Blum.

Sounds like Blum is the go-to for inset. I’ll have to find some for my own kitchen island, if I can ever get around to actually working on it.

Grass are okay. With Grass on insets you have to get the slides exactly where they need to be. The locking ratchet on the Grass can be finicky on insets.

Tom

 

Ouch. Last time I paid $90/sheet for a 5'x5'x16mm. And I don't think I'd ever call it beautiful.

 

Mine was 4'x8'x3/4". Final product certainly turned out pretty beautiful!

 

Ya, the 4x8s are much more spendy.

 

 

Damn autocorrect made “undermining” out of “undermount”. just fixed it.

I’m pretty set on pocket screw drawer construction. I prefer to not see any of the joinery at all. I usually use pre-finished maple plywood with edge banding.

 

Quick and easy. So not solid wood. Cheater LOL

I like the dovetails.

 

And you have a widebelt.

From 2.365" to 16.365" in one inch increments for me.

 

I do not have a wide belt. Someday maybe.

Tom

 

Going from 13/16" to 3/4" or 5/8" makes little difference in time other than emptying the dust collector of chips.

 

Other than the multiple passes, planer blades and/or sanding pads/belts, electric, wear and tear on machinery and the time and materials to do it all... unless you're doing it for free...

Drawer sides got four pieces, two-sides... going from 13/16" to 5/8" triples the time you have into that aspect of fabrication than going from 13/16" to 3/4"... you're certainly going to spend more than less than $2 per drawer doing it just in labor alone...

 

13/16 > 23/32 1st pass.
23/32 > 5/8 2nd pass.

What are you talking about? Unless you only have a portable planer that takes off 1/32" max.

 

With hard maple, we do a 1/16" at a time otherwise you run the risk of tear-out or snipe unless it's a newly sharpened set of blades... and then you get to spend more time on our favorite activity... sanding... lol...

 

My planer will take 3/32 on a 25” wide board, 1/8 up to 6” board.

Tom

 

I have a 15" 3HP which will do 3/32" on a 15". Maybe not hard maple though. Carbide knives are in need of a sharpening.

 

I have helical carbide head on my planer, probably getting around time to turn them again.

Hard maple is all we use when it comes to maple exposed or paint grade. RSWO is probably the second most used wood in the shop.

Tom

 

I use soft maple on anything painted. If it needs to be stained or just clear coated I use hard maple. But no widebelt and I don't have the time to spend sanding hard maple.

 

Finished this one up Friday for an apple farm. 72x120x18. Also an existing 40x96x16 that we re-sided to match.

Going to be apple crate storage for now, eventually they're going to be insulating and cooling the whole thing.
Trusses rated for future solar panels, that added another 7lbs/foot.

We just bought a time-lapse camera, this was our first build with that.

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Finished this one up Friday for an apple farm. 72x120x18. Also an existing 40x96x16 that we re-sided to match.

Going to be apple crate storage for now, eventually they're going to be insulating and cooling the whole thing.
Trusses rated for future solar panels, that added another 7lbs/foot.

We just bought a time-lapse camera, this was our first build with that.

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Got that roof on just in the nick of time, huh? 🤣


What kind of foundation was that? Did you pour pier footings, and the posts went on top?

 

Is that "attic" all wasted space because of the truss system?

 

Yup

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When you don't have a rotarty table to turn squares into circles....come to think of it, I don't have a mill either.....

The start of a larger fabrication.

Turned a center hub with 1/4-20 threads to hold the wood plate. The jaw ends support the ends of the square. Tool tip pressure is really high on this type of machining.

The reason for the 2 sided tape. I was running the lathe around 850 RPM, the corners would have been a little dangerous if they wern't retained.

The adhesive is pressure sensitve so I clamped the corners tight to help bond. (Yes, I removed the clamp before starting the lath)

Trimmed and chamfered.

Blue chips are good, takes heat with them.

I'll blue these for rust protection. The stem has 0.001 clearance to it's mating piece---if I do everything correctly in the next step....

Tom

 

When you don't have a rotarty table to turn squares into circles....come to think of it, I don't have a mill either.....

The start of a larger fabrication.

View attachment 530733

Turned a center hub with 1/4-20 threads to hold the wood plate. The jaw ends support the ends of the square. Tool tip pressure is really high on this type of machining.

View attachment 530734

The reason for the 2 sided tape. I was running the lathe around 850 RPM, the corners would have been a little dangerous if they wern't retained.

View attachment 530735

The adhesive is pressure sensitve so I clamped the corners tight to help bond. (Yes, I removed the clamp before starting the lath)
View attachment 530737

View attachment 530738

Trimmed and chamfered.

View attachment 530736

Blue chips are good, takes heat with them.

View attachment 530739

I'll blue these for rust protection. The stem has 0.001 clearance to it's mating piece---if I do everything correctly in the next step.... View attachment 530740

View attachment 530741

Tom

In the time it takes me to setup the circle cutting jig on the router (don't use it anymore) etc. it's minutes away from a circle on a table saw... quick and accurate... although it literally takes a couple of minutes to make the circle, if you don't want to cut as many corners off, you can use a jigsaw and then clean up the edge with the table saw... found it to be faster just using the table saw for the whole thing though... under two minutes on average... great for making susans... for 90 degree pie cuts or chamfer, just do those cuts first, then cut the rest of the circle...

Simple overview...

 

Ya, pitty those 120 year old buildings, that are still sagging, used such inferior techniques for building.

 

The clear span from the trusses is nice. Old barns would have had beams and posts everywhere trying to go that big.

But it is kind of a shame, you would think with all the building technology we have these days, by and large construction would be better off than the old days. But that doesn't seem to be the case. I can't imagine most houses built today will last 120+ years. Some probably will, but only when the builders really care.

 

I drew the prints for my buddies 60x80 garage. Trusses with a 13ftx80 storage area were $2,200 a piece or just under a 100k. Ended up going conventional framing with 2 pieced rafter over a perlin wall. Whole framing package was about 90k. The room above is 30ft x 80ft with 9ft perlin walls and storage in the eaves.

 

The biggest clear span attic truss I've done was a 50'. Was able to get a 24' room in there with a stacked bottom chord under the room.
No where near 2200 a piece, [emoji33] I think they were around 400 - 500....course that was a few years ago....

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137 yard driveway, testing the drain today from the top, worked like a charm. Was a tough pour, the finishers are used to the heat some of our boys were smoked that day.

Prefinished cabinets get installed tomorrow, 200k worth of masonry and stucco about to start
Texted the super and asked if we wanted to power wash that stone if that rebar

rusts 😆