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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an exterior cmu wall project where there are several places that the horizontal reinforcing is visible and poking out of the wall. Several courses were added before this was discovered. Can these be corrected without replacing the whole wall? What is the impact of leaving it as is?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
casey who?

Actually I'm a civil engineer acting as a volunteer for a town project, so obviously no experience with masonry. Just trying to make sure the little league gets what they are paying for.

Thanks for your generous help!
 

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Generally engineers are all about details.
Your question seems uncharacteristically vague.
Sorry, but it's difficult to see your
problem and application from here.
 

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I have an exterior cmu wall project where there are several places that the horizontal reinforcing is visible and poking out of the wall. Several courses were added before this was discovered. Can these be corrected without replacing the whole wall? What is the impact of leaving it as is?
the only way to fix it(and its not hard) is to get a 4 inch grinder with a diamond tiped blad 3/8' wide and grind out the spots where you can see the horizontal reinforcement wire, and then repoint those areas.Where its sticking out possibly you can use wire cutters on those areas.A masonry wall should be sealed when struck...... leaveing it like that is not advisable, your masons were carless..it may take years but thats exactly where the deterioration will start if you leave it go.. If
 

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how bad

You don't mention how much it sticks out. It is careless for the masons to leave it like that, no doubt. But if it just sticks out like 1/16 or 1/8", your best bet might just be to parge over the entire wall...I'm assuming this is the finished surface. If there is a brick veneer over it...no problem...these are the most annoying problems....they are a pain in the neck to fix, yet to do it correctly would have taken about 5-10 extra seconds.....very frustrating....if you do have them fix it, they probably won't make that mistake again though.....gl
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
exterior

The wall is comprised of 8" white, ground face, factory sealed cmu. At first I noticed that the contractor smeared the grout all over the face of it. He said he'd clean it at the end of the job? Then I noticed that the mortared joints were crumbled and not fully sealed, he's been working in 90 degree plus heat. He also didn't cover the top of it for a couple of days of rain so you can see the areas where the cores are grouted solid and staining at the base of the wall where it meets the earth. Then I noticed the horiz. reinforcing bumping out. It only sticks out about 1/8", so I think grinding it, and redoing the mortar might be the best solution.
 

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wood sap leeching out of the pallet and it's is extremely difficult to remove!! Call the block manufacturer and they let you know the best course of action and what to clean em up with!! Don't leave it to him, white rock/mortar is sensitive to harsh chemicals.
I always send stained rock back, chipped block as well, I wouldn't lay em. You get 100% credit for them and block company's are happy to give you credit for em so why put junk in the wall.. Too late for all that though.. Sounds to me this contractor is on the incompetent side reading some of the moves he made. Get him back there to make things right, also make sure he points in any holes he left in the joints, or your inviting water penetration.
Anyway good luck!
 

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The wall is comprised of 8" white, ground face, factory sealed cmu. At first I noticed that the contractor smeared the grout all over the face of it. He said he'd clean it at the end of the job? Then I noticed that the mortared joints were crumbled and not fully sealed, he's been working in 90 degree plus heat. He also didn't cover the top of it for a couple of days of rain so you can see the areas where the cores are grouted solid and staining at the base of the wall where it meets the earth. Then I noticed the horiz. reinforcing bumping out. It only sticks out about 1/8", so I think grinding it, and redoing the mortar might be the best solution.
I would have a qualified engineer look at it, or at least the block manufacturer's rep to see what they say.

If it were my job and they didn't follow the specs, it would be torn out and redone.

I work in 90 degree plus heat all the time, that is no excuse for sloppy work.
 

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90 degree heat is not a problem, but leaving the wall uncovered in the rain is. Pallet stains are one of the worst to remove, but if the block are factory sealed it should not be a problem. Contact the block manufacturer for a specific cleaner for both the stain and the block. Be warned though, that the sealer may be a sacrificial sealer that is removed when the block is cleaned. I always recommend sealing the block after they are laid anyway since the joints need the sealer too.

As for the wire problem, it needs to be ground out and tucked, no structural issues there.

Regarding chips and dis-colored CMU (or brick, or stone). There are tags on most pallets of architectural CMU and almost all Brick that state, "Use constitutes acceptance". What that means is that once it is in the wall, it is your issue, not the manufacturers or distributors, no matter what the problem.

This is something I deal with on a daily basis, and I will replace or credit pretty much anything that is on the ground, but once it is laid, I can usually only offer advice. On chips the same holds, but I usually have to whip out my handy set of ASTM standards. Here is the relevant section:

ASTM C-90

Finish and Appearance

"Finish and appearance provisions prohibit defects that
would impair the strength or permanence of the construction,but permit minor cracks incidental to usual manufacturing
methods. For units to be used in exposed walls, the presence
of objectionable imperfections is based on viewing the unit
face or faces from a distance of at least 20 ft (6.1 m) under
diffused lighting. Five percent of a shipment may contain chips
not larger than 1 in. (25.4 mm) in any dimension, or cracks not
wider than 0.02 in. (0.5 mm) and not longer than 25% of the
nominal unit height. Similarly, the specification requires that
color and texture be specified by the purchaser. An approved
sample of at least four units, representing the range of color
and texture permitted, is used to determine conformance."
 

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Wire sticking out in many places is just laziness/not caring. But I think we all have had wire popping out now and again. Doesn't help any when the wire is all bent up from being walked/driven over. I would also just grind back the sections and repoint. As far as chips or cracks once they are laid you own them. Most jobs I follow the dime rule for architectural block. Any chip bigger than a dime doesn't get laid. As already said I would contact the manufacturer about the pallet stains. Most likely they will say use a mild cleaner.
 

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It is funny how things work. I was asked basically this same question twice today, although both were older walls showing rust due to exposed HRW. One was brick and was so rusted it was popping the mortar out, the other was a small piece of exposed wire causing a rust stain. The answer was the same for both as for this one: Grind (wash with OSPHO for the rust), then tuckpoint them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thanks

The contractor has sworn to fix it. The quality of the workmanship is very sloppy. He blamed it on the heat. Thanks for all the advice.
 
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