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Discussion Starter #1
Ok I need to install a two pocket doors at 36"s each totalling a 6' opening well I have only installed a regular single before. So my question is the rough framing width is supposed to be 2 x door width + 1" for the Johnson assembly so for a double 36" would the rough opening be 145"s or 146"s. Thanks in advance for any advice.
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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I think you need to do your math. 36 + 36 +1 + 1 will never equal 145"
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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Yep, I knew I was missing something. I stared at it for a while until I pressed submit. Guess I should have waited a few more moments :laughing:
 

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Curmudgeon
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Still bad math.
I think he needs 146" min.
 

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Maker of Fine Sawdust
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One of his answers was 146"
 

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Super Moderator
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I think on the Johnson it needs to be 145". On the other wood slatted ones it would be 146" Also gonna need the converging door kit.
 

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145 gives you 1/2" on each side
I'd go with that
Don't forget some type of center stop so each door stays on it's own side:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
36+36+36+36=144 ok now that will take care of the double doors and the space they occupy in the walls. so i was wandering should i still use the one extra inch as said in the instructions or should i make it two
 

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Wood Craftsman
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ah..OK

rough opening (72") 36X4 144 + 1-1/2 (3/4" jamb trim) + 1-1/2" ( 3/4" bumper x 2) = 147" my friend;) shim the bumpers;) better enough out and then shim in.. otherwise ~ the doors will not slide flush and even with the jamb trim ;)
Brian
 

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installed many a pocket door. and i have come to dislike them.
I agree. In my opinion pocket doors are overused. I can see using one if there is no room to swing the door, but many times they are used willy nilly cause homeowners think they are cool.
 

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YUUUUP!
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yeah and another reason for me is i got sent to a job and the guy who installed all the pocket doors installed them wrong and i had to fix every one of them well 14 out of 20 floors. i finally just installed the rest of them myself to save the hassle. hell they had the same guy installed exterior hollow metal frames and it took him almost an hour and 1/2 for each frame. he insisted that he needed to use a laser level to set them it took him thirty minutes to try to get the laser right and then he still installed them wrong. i could install 4 to his one and the only thing i used was two levels and a framing square he didnt leave room for the finished floor. another job i had to go back and fix. i had to go and jack every single door frame. PITA
 

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rough opening (72") 36X4 144 + 1-1/2 (3/4" jamb trim) + 1-1/2" ( 3/4" bumper x 2) = 147" my friend;) shim the bumpers;) better enough out and then shim in.. otherwise ~ the doors will not slide flush and even with the jamb trim ;)
Brian
Brian...you're correct, I forgot the jambs inside the wall.

I used to hate pocket doors.:wallbash:

Now I take the Johnson pocket door kit and throw away all the 1x2 metal clad strapping.
I just use the track and the hardware.
I substitute the strapping with 3/4" plywood on each side.
This makes for a smooth "pocket" - nothing to get caught on.

Sheetrock is easy to screw off
Wainscot and baseboard have plenty to nail to.
The "extension" jamb has plenty of nailing.

It also lets pictures get hung by the Homeowner later:thumbup:
 

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Wood Craftsman
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Well....

Tclev...:thumbup:
I would rather have some room to play than have a door that will not sit flush with the jamb trim... Thanks:thumbsup: yea....pocket doors.. they suck! But I can see where sometimes they make sence..;)
Brian
 
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