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So a topic grew in another thread and I thought this was more fair...

How do you layout your plates?

We are going to try layout sticks on the next project to see how they work.


We usually use a framing square or pull with a tape and then draw lines with a speed square. I prefer a line over just a tick mark just to keep it all clean and square.
 

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In my opinion and experience layout sticks are best used when working off a lumber pile or horses with lots of wall to do.

I could never get used to them. Dam things were at the other end of the pile or something got set on top of them.

Tape and a speed square are tops in my book. Got me through the production framing days with them when I was the layout guy...:thumbsup:
 

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diplomat
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I draw lines for 2x8 and thicker walls only. I feel like layout is so fast with a tape there's no reason for any other tool.
 

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I use a speed square to square around corners and to bring partition lines up from the floor, tape measure to mark window centers and then center header measurement on mark, single square line between king strud and trimmer. Same with doors unless they're right off a partition. Then hook the end and arc center marks for studs.
 

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I normally use a tape and skip the speed square. I prefer a single center line for stud layout instead of a double line or one line with an X. Reason is the single center line helps when sheeting the wall, I can use that line to help gauge where the sheets will go.

Not saying you have a bad tool, if you think it helps then you can use it. I just get to point B different.
 

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GC/carpenter
GC/Carpenter
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When I detailed plate on the big tracks for piece, the layout stick was the only way to fly. You can mark both sides of the the stud and the stupid framers have no excuse. It just worked out very accurate and faster for me. I'm not trying to start a pissing match here. I'm just saying what was best for me. For the record I detailed hundreds of homes with one. I used to carry what we called cheat sheets on my bags with each home plan and the option package that went with them. It was a pretty slick operation. It's not always the case that all track workers were hacks. I was on the snap line plate and detail crew. You couldn't be a hack on that part of the job.
 

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We use a layout stick. Layout from the floor is transferred up onto the plates.

The layout stick we have is from Big Foot (not sure if they make them anymore) and we've used the same one for 6 or more years. What I like about it is that its fast, but also that the layout grows as we work down the wall. This is good because we do gap the Zip Wall panels about an 8d nail and I don't like to rip ply.
 

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Framing Contractor
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FramingPro said:
Does anyone square down the face of the plate? I must admit some times my studs aren't square to the edge.
Mark all centers and I square down the inside of door openings so its easy for the boys to nail them perfectly square every time.
 

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Forming and Framing
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Mark all centers and I square down the inside of door openings so its easy for the boys to nail them perfectly square every time.
I suppose having the studs perfectly square is not critical. Its pretty hard to make sure they are aligned and square in the hustle and bustle that is wall bangin.
 

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Framing Contractor
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FramingPro said:
I suppose having the studs perfectly square is not critical. Its pretty hard to make sure they are aligned and square in the hustle and bustle that is wall bangin.
No I mean as long as its close and still looks good its fine
 

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Speed Square & Tape.
|X (stud layout)
J|X (Jacks)
|0 (Cripples)
|W|----|W| (Wall Tie has 3-1/2" blocks in between, not 14-1/2")
 

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I pay more attention to where they go than how I mark them. Studs are stacked under rafters and joists go to the side, and mirrored across the spans. (That way K-walls studs will stack for Stick-Roof construction.)


Box framing, w/plates on edge / all specific component dims, (windows, doors, T's & C's), two lines marked with pencil/square. All general o.c. layouts are with single Red Crayon center-lines (arced square with the tape). Most components will square themselves and the general o.c.'s will be close enough.


Long symmetrical walls get butterflied for speed and mirrors can be done simultaneously, at horse level.


I would think a good L-O stick would have at least 7" long tongues to barely work w/2x6 plates laid flat.



...
 

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diplomat
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We square every stud. Cut two plates, lay them side by side. Pull layout and square across both of them at once. It really doesn't take very long to do it.
I think the question was about squaring the face, not the edge.
 
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