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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some ideas.

I have done it several ways but I am interested in hearing how some of you handle it in hopes I can find a faster method.

With wood I used to tack it to the back of the rim, hang it and make 3 sides .Stakes in the ground to held the bottom But with plastic and the way things move I considering a different approach.

I dont like the premade channels and mulls. My plan is to hang vertical 2x4's from inside the rim and then horizontally at the bottom in between. This gives me a frame to attach lattice panels to. Im either going to rabbet those 2x4 prior to hanging them to allow the lattice to float then cover with 1x4 PVC/cortex or I am going buy 5/4 PVC and run a slot cutter through them for the lattice.

Im leaning towards the 5/4 method because Im thinking I can span more with less sag and less framing.

Any faster ideas or thoughts?
 

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Talking Head
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I don't really use lattice on anything that isn't low to the ground so my way might not be great for larger spans. I've used it for panels up to about 4x4'. I make 1x4 Azek frames, with butt joints, and glue and pocket screw the joints. The lattice goes on top of a 2x4 PT frame hung from the rim(or inside the rim) and extra spikes or stakes behind the bottom. The azek frame goes on top of the lattice and gets some cortex screws.

It's not exactly fast so it might not be what you're looking for.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I make 1x4 Azek frames, with butt joints, and glue and pocket screw the joints. Thats what Im doing, they do make exterior pocket screws right?
The lattice goes on top of a 2x4 PT frame hung from the rim(or inside the rim) and extra spikes or stakes behind the bottom. The azek frame goes on top of the lattice and gets some cortex screws. So you dont allow the lattice to move? Small panels are one thing 6-8ft is another

It's not exactly fast so it might not be what you're looking for.
Pretty much the same process
 

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Talking Head
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I use SS decking screws and set the drill depth a bit shallow on the Kreg jig. The Azek is soft so I haven't had trouble with the flat head screws but you want a bit more meat in there for them to grab.

If it's a small panel I just drill a 1/4" hole a put a washer on the the screw so it can move a bit. If it's larger I slot the lattice and use roofers. The Cortex screws allow me to suck it up tight and then back it off a turn to keep it from binding the lattice.
 

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If a project calls for plastic lattice (which I hate), this is what I had my guys do last time -

Build frame flush with outside of rim/side joists


Run lattice work to top of rim/side joists - cut bottom to match grade.
Yes, that's one of Brian's custom 3 legged saw horses on site.


Install fascia over lattice to lock it in place, use plastic H channel to catch sides of panels - cut H-channel to sit below deck fascia.


For this build, make sure you run decking beyond framing far enough to cover lattice work (3/8" +/-) and your fascia (3/4" - 1") and still have a shadow line.

Mac
 

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Talking Head
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That's a great example of how to ruin the look of a really nice little deck. Diamond lattice, bleh. I've had to use the square lattice a couple times and that's a little bit better.

My yard has some really nice cedar lattices available, in unusual patterns, but I haven't had a customer pick one yet.

Edit: I just reread what I wrote. I'm not saying that MAC did anything but a great job. I just don't like the look of that lattice.
 

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Renaissance Man
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That lattice in Macs pic will eventually get mangled with lawn equipment, snow drifts etc... and will need replacement sooner than the deck itself.

No way I would bury it that deep behind the fascia knowing this and be forced to remove the fascia every time I had a problem.

I like the rabbeted frame technique, keep it independent and easy to replace.

You do nice work Mac, and I'm not insinuating you don't. It's just that i'd handle that detail a bit differently.

Leave yourself plenty of room for expansion, that stuff can get quite squiggly .
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If a project calls for plastic lattice (which I hate), this is what I had my guys do last time -

Build frame flush with outside of rim/side joists


Run lattice work to top of rim/side joists - cut bottom to match grade.
Yes, that's one of Brian's custom 3 legged saw horses on site.


Install fascia over lattice to lock it in place, use plastic H channel to catch sides of panels - cut H-channel to sit below deck fascia.


For this build, make sure you run decking beyond framing far enough to cover lattice work (3/8" +/-) and your fascia (3/4" - 1") and still have a shadow line.

Mac
Ive buried the lattice behind the fascia when doing new builds, this is a after thought.
Thanks Mac
 

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That's a great example of how to ruin the look of a really nice little deck. Diamond lattice, bleh.

Edit: I just reread what I wrote. I'm not saying that MAC did anything but a great job. I just don't like the look of that lattice.
No worries, I hate the stuff. But I don't get to tell the customer I won't build something they want.

Mac
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No other thoughts huh? I am going to do this a couple of weeks. It kind of bothers me to build such a ridgid frame. I would rather be able to pop off any section with ease to get under it but this isnt a 3 sided deck it has 9 sides, I keep thinking individual panels will look weird. 1X4 sides will look like fat mullions.
 

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Punching above his weight
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I hate that stuff. I think the most hopeless I've ever felt in my working life was installing plastic lattice in the rain under an ugly deck attached to an ugly vinyl sided house in a yard full of dog ****. I was positive I was going to die under that deck.

In order to get out of that hole quickly, I used the U and H channel pieces that the lattice manufacturers make. Set up a full sheet of 3/4 ply on some horses and make panels with the U channels and lattice. Those U channels have enough meat to them that you can drive a SS screw straight through the back of them into the 4x4's of the deck.

If it's not a down and dirty job, you can add those panels to the inside of some Azek frames made like Ethan described.

Ugh, I hate that I've used enough of that stuff that I can dispense advice. Worst product. Worst look.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have done a lot of work for this customer over the years Easy and doing this lattice won't be exciting but I not going to say no thanks.
The skinny profile of the pre made stuff is a turn off. Unless I rabbit space for the channels in the 2x legs. How did you hold the pieces to the lattice?
 

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I've set it into dadoes that I ran in the edge of 2x4 RSC... It was up high on a gazebo protected from the weather somewhat though

I'll see if I can find a pic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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100_6430 (2).jpg

This is from 9 years ago. I didn't build the deck, just did the lattice. It's an AZEK face frame put together with pocket screws applied over a 2x4 PT frame rabbited for the lattice. There are angle braces that run back up to the deck frame so the bottom is stable.

I'll have to see if I can find a picture of the access piece which is a long door under the back of the deck. The lattice and face frame was applied over a custom aluminum frame to keep it sturdy when it's opened.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks guys it seems like we all go about it the same way.

Eric were those 1x4 or skinnier? I dont want 7" mulls
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tried talking her into gravel around the perimeter as well I could the white getting green with mildew
 

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Thanks guys it seems like we all go about it the same way.

Eric were those 1x4 or skinnier? I dont want 7" mulls
Those are all 1x4. The areas that look wider are where it goes around a corner. Nothing is in ground contact either, the whole system is floating. In some areas, the lattice runs behind the center mulls. In that case, it's just sandwiched between the 2x and AZEK, but has enough play to expand and contract.
 
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