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Those cheap bathtub surrounds, not the direct to stud ones, but the ones that you glue over either drywall or tile. They all say you can apply them over tile, but what do you do with the edges where you can see the tile? Is there a trim kit I am missing? The tile is what about 1/8 proud of the wall and the tub surround goes over it, so looking at the tub you would see the tile under the edges of the surround right?
 

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Flooring Guru
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Good question.

I am interested in what the answer might be.
 

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If the tile is good why not leave an revel of the tile on the edges, then you dont have to screw with making a lot of trim.

I have applied these to the tile in the past and never had a problem with them, as long as the tile is in good shap and is clean.

I would however use the Swan walls that are 3 piece, as they have some meat to them.

BJD
 

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I'd think that would work, as long as you have a good bond between the tile and the surround right at the edges.
What kind of caulk would you use for that? I've found that Mulco (Canadian company) makes a thermoplastic caulk in white that fixes damn near anything, but it sets up in about 5 seconds, so you can't tool it. You have to apply a nice smooth bead or you're screwed.
 

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Mike Finley said:
Those cheap bathtub surrounds, not the direct to stud ones, but the ones that you glue over either drywall or tile. They all say you can apply them over tile, but what do you do with the edges where you can see the tile? Is there a trim kit I am missing? The tile is what about 1/8 proud of the wall and the tub surround goes over it, so looking at the tub you would see the tile under the edges of the surround right?
Not really sure I'd refer to all of them as "cheap". I installed a nice quality fiberglass tub surround in my own bath about 16 years ago and it still looks as good as it did when I installed it. It is easy to clean and very durable. The one I purchased was pretty expensive and was adjustable to cover different lengths/widths by how much each section overlaped the other. :Thumbs:
 

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Mike Finley said:
I'm wondering if I could run the surround a bit long on the edges and just fill the gap with white caulk?
Mike,

Although you could do that, - - I definitely wouldn't, - - the edges are what's most likely to come loose first in time, - - and a caulk-edge that thick will attract dirt.

I would use the PVC shoe molding, - - and rabbett the (narrowest) flat edge to recieve the tile/surround edges.

Making the rabbett even 1/8" deep would be fine, - - you just need enough to overlap the surround.

If the surround has a pronounced radius at the top corners you may want to rabbett somewhat deeper to 'cover'.
 

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You could also use pvc molding that is used on FRP board, they have all kinds of different type channels and top corners,etc.
 

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Yeah, - - those moldings would work, too, - - I just don't like them because their 'thin-ness' not only makes them cheap looking, - - but makes it hard for them to hold a straight line.
 

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Sorry Mike, but this whole thread sounds like a hack job. I'm not big on fiberglass either, it shrinks forever.
 

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Teetor - hack job for sure. Budget is budget, nothing I can do about that other than donate the materials and labor.

I took a look at those plastic moldings yestersday, they have a profile that will be perfect. That seems to be the way to go.

What would you fasten them with? I'm guessing they will crack and split with a finishing nailer? Combination of liquid nails and pre-drilled finishing nails?
 

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The Deck Guy
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Mike Finley said:
Teetor - hack job for sure. Budget is budget, nothing I can do about that other than donate the materials and labor.

I took a look at those plastic moldings yestersday, they have a profile that will be perfect. That seems to be the way to go.

What would you fasten them with? I'm guessing they will crack and split with a finishing nailer? Combination of liquid nails and pre-drilled finishing nails?
Mike,

You should try Fastcap's 2P-10 gel adhesive. The kit is $50, but trust me, you will get hooked and use it everyday. Also, go to Collinstool.com and buy miter clamps and the pliers. You'll love life...
 

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Greg Di said:
Mike,

You should try Fastcap's 2P-10 gel adhesive. The kit is $50, but trust me, you will get hooked and use it everyday. Also, go to Collinstool.com and buy miter clamps and the pliers. You'll love life...
Whoa, that 2p-10 looks pretty cool. I found it online for $36.00 - http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?DeptID=2086&FamilyID=5035

I use West Marine epoxy, but this is different then that.

Always liked the miter clamps.


They are on my list of tools to buy. Unfortunately that list grows faster than I guy them! :cheesygri
 

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Isn't that impacting the frame? I think that I'll stay with my frame clamps, no dents or divots.

Mike, try a finish or brad nailer on an end or scrap and see what happens. Some splits like crazy and others will absorb a hit 1/4" from the end. Just have to explore.
 

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The Deck Guy
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Mike Finley said:
They are on my list of tools to buy. Unfortunately that list grows faster than I guy them! :cheesygri
While you are there, buy a Collins Coping foot too. You'll never hold a jigsaw the right way again (you work with the the blade up pointing towards you). Makes coping and scribing SO fast...
 

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Greg, it works like a Jap saw? Cuts on the pull stroke? Just curious, I mitre everything.

To stick to tile; clean well. mineral spirits, acetone, denatured alcohol and rubbing alcohol. Use 5200, 101 or BoatLife. Done.
 

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Just cleaned my fiberglass tubwall this morning. Took about 20 minutes. Still looks new after 16+ years. Sure is nice not having to scrub soap scum and mildew out of grout. :cheesygri
 
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